Make no little plans. They have no magic to stir men’s blood and probably themselves will not be realized. Make big plans; aim high in hope and work, remembering that a noble, logical diagram once recorded will never die, but long after we are gone will be a living thing, asserting itself with ever-growing insistency. Remember that our sons and grandsons are going to do things that would stagger us. Let your watchword be order and your beacon beauty. Think big.
Daniel Burnham, Chicago architect (1864-1912).
It took an American to best summon up the credo of that last British Age, The Edwardian Era. The rather grandly named Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. Ltd. and their two beautiful sister ships-- Heliopolis and Cairo-- were exemplars of the Edwardian Era in every respect, conceived out of the spirit of audacious enterprise of the Age, the graceful and innovative products of British engineering and decorative arts, designed to provide a swift and luxurious link to a land that enjoyed almost cult-like fascination with Victorians and Edwardians alike. Yet, the Company was, to use (with apologies) that horrible 21st Century expression, "an epic fail": a pre-Titanic, pre-Great War reminder that the Edwardians were not always destined to succeed and the Mighty were not always made Mightier yet. Overconfidence, bad planning and worse timing doomed the ambitions of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. and those lovely ships to obscurity.
Heliopolis and Cairo remain among the most handsome pair of sister ships ever to grace The Ocean Highway. Rather like the monuments of Ancient Egypt, one can marvel they were ever built at all and appreciate they are best seen in the "Spirit of the Age" that conceived and accomplised them.
Egypt, the playground and health resort of the rich and leisured class, the land of mystery, sunshine and warmth.
The Gentlewoman, 19 October 1907.
They called it "Egyptomania," the Victorian passion for anything and everything connected with Ancient Egypt. It began with the French, specifically Napoleon's invasion in 1798-1801, Champolion's deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphs and de Lesseps' original Suez Canal project. And came to assume a positive cultural mania with the Victorian English, influencing everything from furniture, clothing, literature and art. The British completion of the Suez Canal further put Egypt at the nexus of Imperial commerce and communication.
Egypt was the first true overseas destination of another British invention of the age: popular tourism, pioneered by Thomas Cook. Cook's created the very touristic infrastructure of Egypt including the fleet of Nile steamers while in the late Victorian Age, Egyptian cities and towns near the ancient sites like Aswan and Luxor soon sprouted impressive hotels, resorts and even opera houses. Verdi's "Aida", of course, being set in Ancient Egypt, and having its premier in Cairo in 1871. More than ancient wonders, Egypt offered its wonderful sunny, dry and hot climate as a perfect tonic to the damp cold of English winters to make it a seasonal destination every bit as much as Deauville in summer in Victorian and Edwardian society.
Politically and strategically, Egypt assumed ever increasing importance by virtue of the Suez Canal. Although still nominally an autonomous province of the moribund Ottoman Empire, Egypt was first occupied by the British in 1882 and run as an informal "protectorate" of Great Britain up to 1922 although British presence there, including military, remained until 1952 and the Nassar Revolution. British trade, commerce and investment in the country was considerable as was a British expat community which was swelled by 60,000 visitors annually by the turn of the century. So that Egypt was "abroad" without being entirely "foreign".
Egypt is almost as far from Britain as New York and while the density of ships and sailings, en route to the East via Suez, was impressive, the voyage times were much longer. Worse, it meant sailing through the notorious Bay of Biscay. Its reputation among poor sailors and the 12-day voyage, prompted the development by the 1880s of "short cuts" entailing various cross Channel and overland train connections to Marseilles or Brindisi to board fast "feeder" ships to Port Said, Egypt. The focus of these services remained through passage to India via Suez, but they had the potential of materially speeding the increasing tourist traffic to Egypt.
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| The original Mediterranean Greyhounds: P&O's wonderful Isis and Osiris, the later portrayed above by the incomparable Jock Spurling, further put Egypt at the nexus of Imperial commerce and a less than a week from England. |
In August 1898 P&O introduced the remarkable Isis and Osiris. Measuring all of 1,728 grt., their twin-screw, triple-expansion engines drove them at 20 knots. Rather like the Concorde of their day, they were very fast, not terribly comfortable and carried only 75 First Class passengers and the mails. Running between Brindisi, at the heel of Italy, and Port Said, where connections were made with the Bombay mailships, they cut a week off the passage time to India and reduced the journey from Britain to Egypt to four plus days. Although the train journey from London to Brindisi was still long and tiresome. Still, they figured little in stimulating the Egypt tourist trade as they were usually fully booked with Bombay through traffic. Indeed, most of the Egypt-bound ships, merely transiting the Suez Canal and calling at Port Said (which was not very convenient for Cairo), regarded the "short haul" traffic to/from Egypt as a sideshow at best.
The passion for Egypt was certainly not exclusive to the British and more than matched by the Germans. As with everything at the turn of the century, there emerged keen rivalry between the two countries even in leisure and travel pursuits. Germany under its new Kaiser was determined to match Great Britain as a maritime power, both naval and merchant, through its instruments of Norddeutscher Lloyd and HAPAG on all of the world's trade routes, including to Egypt from the Mediterranean.
Towards this end, on 9 November 1904 NDL began a new fortnightly service from Marseilles and Naples to Alexandria with Schleswig (1902/6,995 grt) which had been their largest ship to South America. At 13.5 knots, she was no match for the P&O flyers, but with berths for 227 First and 64 Second, far more condusive to leisure travel. Moreover, the route was more convenient than Brindisi and Port Said for fast train connections to/from Marseilles or Naples, and from Alexandria to Cairo. She was joined on 11 January 1905 by a far more impressive vessel: the 1889-built 6,990-grt Holenzollern, original built as Kaiser Wilhelm II and rebuilt and renamed in 1900. She was already credited with making the first proper "cruise", to the Norwegian fjords, by an ocean-going steamer on 24 June 1890. The NDL was, however, content to leave further development of this market to HAPAG but concentrated on developing a "cruise trade" with their ever expanding liner routes, in particular New York-Mediterranean starting in 1891 in conjunction with HAPAG.
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| Norddeutscher Lloyd's Holenzollern, the first luxury liner on the Europe-Egypt run. |
Holenzollern, with her white hull and attractive accommodation for 180 First and 84 Second Class, was the first luxury liner on the Mediterranean-Egypt route, but her 16-knot speed was still no rival to P&O or materially reduce the travel time to Egypt from European capitals. As with so much else during this era, German enterprise was met by a British response. The time was seen as ripe for British supremacy to the Land of Pharoahs with ships combining the speed of Isis and Osiris with that of the most luxurious Atlantic liners.
The steamship again is a great linking force. Thus our relations will be made closer than ever by the launch of the Heliopolis. Through our connection with the land of the Pharaohs is so close, politically, commercially, and "touristy," it is an extraordinary fact that none of the great British steamship lines have run vessels exclusively for passengers to Egypt. The Egyptian trade has been a mere incident in their voyages to India, Japan, China, or Australia, and the passenger to Egypt has been sacrificed to these distance goals. All this has been changed by a new corporation, the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company, which will run steamers from Marseilles ('the jumping-off place' of the world) direct to Alexandria, reducing the journey from six to four days. The first of these vessels, the Heliopolis, just launched from the Fairfield yard, will be a palatial floating club of 12,000 tons gross and will be driven by turbine engines of 18,000 hp. There is nothing more comfortable or luxurious afloat than will be seven-decked palace. It has been designed exactly like a hotel or club, the conventional arrangement of dining and living accommodation having been adopted so as to give the maximum of comfort to the passengers.
The Sphere, 8 June 1907.
It is well that the directors of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company and others have applied for £440,000 worth of shares in that enterprise, for assuredly the public will display no eagerness to invest in this optimistic proposition.
The Syren & Shipping, 16 January 1907.
The creation of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. Ltd. was remarkable and almost without precedent in the shipping business. Here was a new company whose entire reason for being was a short-haul, single-market, seasonal business that was wholly passenger oriented and not for transportation purposes but rather devoted to the fads and fancies of the leisured class. Not only was there none of the immigrant traffic that was the staple of most lines, but almost no cargo and no fixed mail contract. Moreover, it was begun with brand new ships, specifically designed and built for the service based not on experience but rather on forecasts and suppositions as the nature and extent of that business. Its market base was the most discerning and wealthy yet it had no reputation on which to attract them and the key ingredient... the crew... would be as new as the ships. It was also a business whose leadership, whilst peppered with well-known, indeed respected men in business, finance and new enterprises, none had grounding in the steamship, travel or tourism fields.
In their proposal, it was widely cited that travel to Egypt was increasing with arrivals rising from 60,000 in 1902 to 107,000 in 1906. But it was an increasing trade that was already being catered to by an increasing number of lines, not just NDL, but also Austrian Lloyd, running from Trieste and Brindisi to Alexandria. Not one of which had ships catering to more than 200-300 First Class passengers whereas the new Egyptian Mail ships had berths for as many as 700 each.
The concept behind the creation of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. was sound enough, namely to combine the speed of Isis and Osiris with the luxury of the best trans-Atlantic liners as well as provide a dedicated connection to Egypt rather than as a mere waystop en route to and from the Suez Canal. The concept was explained well enough in the below:
Egypt, the playground and health resort of the rich and leisured class, the land of mystery, sunshine and warmth. Hitherto the great difficulty has been the journey thither. It has not been possible to get there from London under about six days, even by those who have travelled overland, while those who have round by the dreaded Bay of Biscay, have taken considerably longer. A busy man, with limited time to spare for holidays, thinks twice before deciding on a resort, however tempting, when quite twelve days have to be given up to the journey there and back.
Then again, the companies of the various liners bound for India, China and Australia, do not look too kindly on passengers bound for Egypt only, as they up space which could be far more remunerative. How often, too, have wearisome days been spent in Cairo, waiting for a homeward bound boat with vacant berths. Perhaps there may be an odd berth or two to spare in already tenanted cabins, but unless the inmates happen to be really nice people, one is made to feel a bit of an intruder, an the homeward journey is one of comparative discomfort. But for these inconveniences I am convinced that many more would travel farther afield than actually do.
At last, however, this state of things is coming to an end, and Egyptian passengers are going to have a special steamship service of their own, running between Marseilles and Alexandria.
The Egyptian Mail Steamship Company has given carte blanche to the Fairfield Shipbuilding Company, Glasgow, in this matter, and the result is two of most magnificent boats afloat, vieing with the new Cunarders as regards comfort and luxury.
The Gentlewoman, 19 October 1907
It also seemed well timed, following in the wake of a progressive period of reform, renewal and active British interest in modernising Egypt whilst at the same time ensuring it remained firmly under its control and influence, something that could be furthered with better connections. In this, the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co., it was hoped, would be for British Egypt as Union-Castle was to South Africa, P&O to India and Orient Line to Australia. Although it is telling that there was no mail contract in the offing for the new service or, indeed, any government encouragement of the scheme.
Under the protection of Great Britain, and the direction of the great pro-Consul who just retired, Egypt had emerged from chaos and bankruptcy to a position of great prosperity. Formerly visited only a few wealthy people as a luxurious touring country, it had now become, and would be even more and more in the future, the great resort of those who could leave England for the winter season.
Lord Armstrong.
"The great pro-Consul" referred to above was Lord Cromer--Evelyn Baring, 1st Earl of Cromer (1841-1917), one of the giants of British Egypt, serving as British controller-general in 1879 in the wake of the Egyptian bankruptcy in 1876 and counsul general from 1885 to 1907 during the British occupation following the Urabi nationalist revolt. Under Cromer, Egypt's economy, infrastructure and army was reformed, modernised and made over in the British image. It was precisely the model for stability under an informal British "protectorate" that ensured ever increasing levels of foreign investment and tourism. Lord Cromer resigned in April 1907, but created the ideal conditions for Egypt to be suddenly afforded the world's finest and fastest ocean service. It was entirely fitting that Lady Cromer christened R.M.S. Cairo.
Lord Armstrong professes to like sport; he shoots a little and golfs a little, but on the whole takes his amusements mildly. He doesn't read much though he always shows a certain interest in scientific discoveries. It was this interest, probably, which led to his becoming chairman of the Poulson-Forest Wireless Telegraphy Co. He finds pleasure, too, in business, and has gone into many enterprises, not of them fortunate; he is chairman of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. and a director of the North-Eastern Railways.
Lancashire Daily Post, 5 March 1908.
The driving force behind the creation of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. Ltd. was Lord Armstrong (1863-1941) who had the considerable good fortune to be nephew of Lord Armstrong (the man who singlehandedly created the modern arms industry) and inherit his estate in 1900 worth £1.4 mn which he put to good use in philanthropy and to various degrees of added fortune on a succession of business enterprises.
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| Some of the principals behind the creation of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co.: Baron Empain (left), Lord Armstrong (centre) and Borgos Nubar Pasha. Credit: Wikimedia Commons. |
Among the other principal backers of the company was Baron Empain (1852-1929) one of the leading entrepreneurs and financers of his era. The Belgian-born engineer was an early developer of railway lines both in his native country and also France, including creation of the Paris Métro. This led to creation of electric tramcar systems in many countries, including Cairo. In 1906 he developed a new town of Heliopolis outside of Cairo where he built the famous landmark Palais Hindou. Empain became very interested, too, in Egyptology. Another investor in the line was Egyptian-Aremenian H.E. Borgos Nubar Pasha (1851-1930), the son of Egypt's first Prime Minister Nubar Pasha, and one of Egypt's wealthiest men and an early champion of an independent Armenia. G.T. (George Todd) Symons owned George T. Symons & Co. of London (est. 1902) and was appointed manager of the line for a period of ten years. He was the only director with any direct ship owning or operating experience.
On 25 May 1906 the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company (Limited) was registered in London with a capital of £660,000 with Directors listed as Lord Armstrong, E. Empain, A. Curphey, G.T. Symons and Major C.H. Villiers.
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| Credit: Lloyd's List 30 May 1906 |
Showing no timidity, the company's specification for their first pair of ships included 18.5-knot service speed, turbine machinery (the first for any Mediterranean liner) and extremely lavish two-class accommodation for approximately 500 First Class and 300 Second Class passengers. There are no accounts of the design process or contract negotiations and no revelations of which yards were approached to tender for the vessels, other than Fairfield's. It is more than likely that the shipyard, then facing a lack of work having just completed Empress of Britain and Empress of Ireland, came to Egyptian Mail.
In preparing the specifications of these steamers, the Directors have had in view the recent great advances that have been made in the fitting of steamers with the object of increasing the comfort of passengers.
Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. press release.
On 7 July 1906 it was reported that the company had placed an order with Fairfield Shipbuilding & Engineering Co., Govan, for two 12,000-ton, triple-screw turbine steamers. Capable of 20.5 knots, designed to do the Marseilles-Alexandria run in 70 hours and have accommodation for 500 First and 290 Second Class passengers. These were audacious specifications given that only three triple-screw turbine liners then existed--- Virginian, Victorian and Carmania. The actual contract was inked on 8 August. The contract price of the two ships was £606,000, payment in installments of which £406,000 is paid during construction and £200,000 paid at delivery. Assigned Yard Nos. 449 and 450, their keels were laid down at Govan that summer. These were boom times for Fairfields who were also building the battle cruiser Indomitable and two Great Lakes steamers for Canadian Pacific, Keewatin and Assinbola.
On 15 January 1907 the stock prospectus of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. Ltd. was issued. The capital of the new company was £660,000 pounds, divided into 60,000 ordinary shares of £10 each and 60,000 deferred shares of £1 each. Directors and friends had already applied for 40,000 ordinary and 40,000 deferred shares. "The directors believe that the special facilities which the company's service will provide will appeal to the largely increasing travelling public, and will also prove highly remunerative." The Leeds Mercury that day noted that: the line was " the latest enterprise from Pharaoh Land. Lord Armstrong, who appears to be connected with almost every concern under the sun, heads the board of directors… the company will inaugurate a direct regular line to Egypt, and the two steamers building will be quite up to date as regards speed and comfort." It is worth noting that this was no idle effort by the Directors of the Company, indeed 26,640 of the ordinary shares were purchased by the Directors and their associates and the 20,000 others made available to the pubic at a £1 premium.
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| The Prospectus of The Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. Ltd. Credit: Pall Mall Gazette 15 January 1907. |
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| Stock certificate for The Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. Ltd. Credit: eBay auction photo. |
The Egyptian Mail Steamship Company, for which the Fairfield Company are building two large turbine steamers, propose to establish a first-class fast service between Europe and Egypt. The vessels will have a speed of not less than 20½ knots, which should enable the passage between Marseilles and Alexandria to be accomplished in seventy hours... The vessels will reproduce all the best features of the newest Atlantic liners.
Glasgow Herald, 11 January 1907.
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| A poor photo of famed maritime painter Antonio Jacobsen's depiction of Heliopolis/Cairo. |
Sounding a cautionary (and prescient) caution to all of this was an editorial in The Syren and Shipping, 16 January 1907:
It is well that the directors of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company and others have applied for £440,000 worth of shares in that enterprise, for assuredly the public will display no eagerness to invest in this optimistic proposition. Two turbine steamers, each of 13,000 tons gross, are to be built, possessing a passenger capacity of 500 first-class and 280 second. They "will reproduce all the most striking features of the newest Atlantic liners," and, seeing that Fairfield is to build them, the travelling public will have the last word in luxurious ocean travel. But whence is to come the traffic? Certainly the number of passengers visiting Egypt is growing rapidly : in 1904 it was 90,400; in 1905, 99,922: but this is of all classes and from all parts. What proportion will be able to utilise the steamers de luxe of the new Company? If every soul of the 100,000 were secured, would there be sufficient money earned to yield an adequate return to the share holders? The prospectus is silent as to possible profits, and we congratulate the directors upon the discretion manifested in this reticence. The board is respectable, bulky and varied, but we do not observe the name of a single individual possessing the necessary qualifications for managing such a company as this. Mr. G. T. Symons has entered into an agreement to act as manager for a period of ten years. The Directory of Directors informs us that this gentleman is on the boards of the Akrokerri (Ashanti) Mines, Ashanti Lands, Attasi and Akrokerri (Ashanti) Mines, Ashanti Lands, Attasi and Bokitsi Development Company (chairman), Bipposu Mines, Chinese Engineering and Mining, Nitrate Railways and Wa Syndicate. A varied assortment, certainly, but none even remotely connected with shipping.
The names of the new ships were revealed on 29 April 1907: Heliopolis (after the "City of the Sun", a major city of Ancient Egypt and located near the present day Cairo) and Cairo as well as setting the launch of the first ship on the 28th, to be christened by the Countess of Dalkieth.
Lloyd's List of 16 May 1907 reported that: "The Fairfield Shipbuilding have one of their two big turbine boats for the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company almost ready for launching, and the other far advanced on the stocks. They are, judging from appearance , to be splendid vessels. A score of years ago they would have seemed large even for Atlantic liners. They were placed in July of last year..." Fairfield is a present perhaps the busiest yard on the Clyde."
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| Heliopolis on ways just prior to her launching showing her fine lines and small triple screws. Credit: Shipbuilding & Shipping Record (left) and The Bystander (right). |
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| A postcard depicting the launch of Heliopolis. Credit: eBay auction photograph. |
The Heliopolis was released and named at quarter to two o'clock by the Countess of Dalkeith, and the launch was in every way successful. The vessel was berthed in the builders' fitting out basin, and the launching party adjoined to the board-room at the offices, where luncheon was served.
Glasgow Herald, 29 May 1907.
The launch of the Heliopolis yesterday was favoured with good weather, and was in every way successful… The huge vessel moved slowly down the ways, the launch occupying about 55 secs., and so easily did she take the water that the checking chains were never taut. When the boat was safely waterborne, a rousing cheer was raised by the spectators.
The Scotsman, 29 May 1907.
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| Credit: The Bystander, 12 July 1907. |
The ship's launch was activated by cutting a cord with an ivory-handled silver hatchet which was later presented to the Countess. The post-launch luncheon was presided over by Mr. Alex. Gracie, managing director of Fairfields, and the guests including Earl and Countess of Dalkeith, Lord and Lady Armstrong, Captain Crighton, marine superintendent, and Mr. M.G. Isdale, superindendent engineer of the line. Mr. Gracie in his speech said:"The whole-hearted manner in which the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company had tackled the business by building such magnificent vessels as the Heliopolis and the Cairo augured well for the future success." Lord Armstrong, in reply, remarked that it had only been nine months since the contracts had been let and the original May launch date had been adhered to despite a six-week strike in the autumn.
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| Heliopolis afloat for the first time The lovely hull livery shows to advantage: red lead underwater hull, pink-buff boot topping and light grey upper hull. Credit: Ships Nostalgia. |
Severe thunderstorms broke over the country yesterday afternoon, and a watery sunset did not augur well for the following day. However, the gods proved kinder than anticipated and the good steamship Cairo was successfully launched a few hours ago in fine weather.
Egyptian Gazette, 12 July 1907.
Few large sister ships were built so simultaneously, a true tour de force for Fairfields. Indeed, six weeks after Heliopolis was launched, Cairo was christened and sent down the ways just after 1:00 p.m. on 11 July 1907 by the Countess of Cromer. Among those attending was Egyptian Mail Director Nubar Pasha. The guests later inspected the nearby Heliopolis fitting out.
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| The launch of Cairo was afforded a full centre page treatment in The Daily Mirror, 13 July 1907. |
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| Credit: Leeds Mercury, 16 July 1907 |
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| The fitting out basin at Govan, in late 1907 with Heliopolis with Cairo and the CPR steamers Keewatin and Assinboia alongside with the battlecruiser Indomitable to the right. Credit: Keewatin Facebook site. |
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| The splendid builder's model of Heliopolis effectively set against a Mediterranean night and showing just how foreshortened the forepart was in these ships not to mention their narrow lines and towering funnels and masts. |
The Marine Engineer and Naval Architect
"Make no small plans..." indeed and Heliopolis and Cairo were certainly unrivaled in the very boldness of their size, speed and accommodation. Indeed, they were the largest and fastest liners specifically designed for the Mediterranean until Lloyd Triestino's Victoria of 1931. They were unique for their era in having but two "saloon classes" and carrying no steerage. And then among the half a dozen high-speed ocean going express liners powered by the wonder of the steam turbine and the first in the Mediterranean so-powered. All this was accomplished with typical Edwardian grace, style and elegance. If Heliopolis and Cairo are remembered at all today, it should be for their lovely profiles, set off by smart and distinctive livery. They were beautiful ships which surely deserved longer and more successful careers not to mention demanding more appreciation today.
The design specification for Egyptian Mail's first (and only) ships was simple: to maintain a weekly service from Marseilles and Naples to Alexandria. And audacious: to accomplish the passage in 70 hours. By reducing the crossing time by a day and a half, the warmth and wonders of Egypt could be savoured by Britons in just 87 hours from the platform of Victoria Station to Cairo via a wonderful progression of Boat Train, express Ferry and exclusive direct train from Calais to Marseilles to embark on the waiting R.M.S. Heliopolis or Cairo and finally a train on the Alexandria quayside direct to Cairo.
To accomplish all this meant harnessing the miracle of Edwardian Engineering: the Parson marine steam turbine which promised almost unlimited power and speed, mitigated only by the naval architecture to house it, transmit the horsepower to screws and drive it through the seas. This was back in the era of the direct-drive turbine of epic size (and weight) driving small screws at very high "revs." The costs were high and the marine engineering often lagged to accomplish it, but now ships, large or small, long distance or short sea, had the promise of materially reducing passage time. None more so the Egyptian Mail flyers which were to slash it by a full calendar day, far bolder than any "Blue Riband" efforts on the North Atlantic.
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| Dr. Francis Elgar, FRS FRSE LLR, Naval Architect. |
The design of the two ships was entrusted to Dr. Francis Elgar (1845-1909), one of Britain's leading naval architects of the Victorian Age, and Director and Consulting Naval Architect for Fairfields from 1895 to 1907. He worked with Leonard Peskett on the Fairfield-built Campania and Lucania and designed the CPR trans-Atlantic liners Empress of Britain and Empress of Ireland of 1906. Elgar was responsible for introducing steam turbine machinery at Fairfields starting with the yacht Narcissus (1904), the cross channel ferry Dieppe (1905) and the triple-screw, 21-knot Viper of 1906 for the Ardrossan-Belfast run. Many elements of the CPR pair would be incorporated in the Egyptian Mail ships, his last major project.
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| Assembly of Heliopolis' turbine rotors at Fairfields. Credit: International Marine Engineering. |
The turbine machinery of this pair was certainly impressive. Indeed, at the time, equalled only by Lusitania/Mauretania and Carmania. The installation was built on the Parsons type, under licence, by Fairfield and consisted of three shafts with one high-pressure turbine directly driving centre shaft and one low-pressure ahead turbine and an astern turbine, in the same casing, driving the wing shafts, all at an remarkable 340 r.p.m.'s The maximum total horsepower generated was 18,000 s.h.p., but the 18-knot service speed could be maintained on just 10,800 s.h.p.
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| One of Heliopolis' low-pressure turbine. Credit: International Marine Engineering. |
It may be interesting to give some particulars of two fast turbine steamers that are being built by the Fairfield Company for the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company to run between Marseilles and Alexandria. These vessels will go upon their station at the beginning of next winter season. They are 525 feet in length, and their speed on service is to be 18.4 knots. The turbines are to run at about 340 revolutions per minute, a rate which necessitates as small a diameter of propeller as prudence would allow. Everything has been done that appeared possible to favour the efficiency of the turbine and reduce the weight of machinery. The boiler-power is increased 6 per cent. above what would be allowed for reciprocating machinery of equal power, and the gross weight of engines, boilers, and auxiliaries works out about 400 tons lighter for the turbines. The space occupied by the boilers and machinery is practically the same; but the cost is greater. A larger consumption of coal with a corresponding increase of bunker-capacity has been allowed for, and it remains to be seen how the consumption will work out.
Minutes of Proceedings of Institution of Civil Engineers, Vol 170.
The boilers were arranged in two separate compartments, each having its own funnel, with two large double-ended and two single-ended boilers, working under Howden's forced-draught at 195 psi. Certainly contributing to their appearance were the magnificent funnels, elliptical in shape, and double with the space between the inner and outer casings used to vent the boiler rooms and stokeholds and doubtless appreciated in the Mediterranean. Gracefully raked, each funnel towered a full 115 ft. above sea level. The aforementioned fuel consumption proved extraordinarily favourable for the era, averaging 170 tons of coal at their service speeds or as high as 240 "full out".
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| Arrangement of machinery. Credit: The Engineer |
On trials, Heliopolis and Cairo achieved very similar results. On the measured-mile trial, Heliopolis attained a speed of 20.75 knots at 372 r.p.m. and Cairo 20.758 at 378 r.p.m.. On 12-hour trial at 16,800 s.h.p. Heliopolis averaged 20.53 knots and Cairo 20.6 knots. Both vessels met their guaranteed 18-knot service speed, Heliopolis maintaining 18.35 knots at 10,800 s.h.p. Their speed at 200 r.p.m. was 12.2 knots, at 261 r.p.m. 15.419 knots, at 314 r.p.m. 16.16 knots, at 346 r.p.m. 19.73 knots and at 372 .r.p.m. 20.75 knots. On their 12 hours full power tests, Heliopolis, with a draught of 21.52 ft., made 20.53 knots at 366.3 r.p.m. and Cairo, with a draft of 22 ft., made 20.6 kn at 372.5 r.p.m.
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| Heliopolis on the ways just before launching showing her small diameter triple screws, characteristic of the very high rev. direct drive turbines. Credit: International Marine Engineering. |
Of course, these impressive speeds were not achieved by horsepower alone. Their naval architecture was more torpedo boat than floating palace, with as light a displacement as possible, very fine lines and a length to beam ratio that evoked the last White Star record breakers. Cargo capacity was minimal and the deadweight tonnage was but 2,550 and the short sea nature of the run reduced the need for large bunker capacity, further reducing the deadweight. The scantlings and framing, too, reflected their Mediterranean sea conditions. All this gave them an extraordinarily low draught for their size and era of 25.7 ft. loaded.
Adequate indeed ample ventilation of their living and working spaces was a feature of these ships, accomplished by direct ventilation/lighting trunking to the engine and galley spaces, the aforementioned "double flu" funnels and a complete Thermotank forced draught ventilation in the accommodation augmented by electric fans in cabins. All of this made them uniquely suited to their essentially year-round warm weather routes, as did the unexcelled covered promenade deck space and larger than usual windows and portholes.
Their basic dimensions were 545 ft (length overall), 525 ft. (length between perpendiculars), 60.3 ft. (beam) and 10,897 tons (gross). The hull was divided by ten watertight compartments and had a full double bottom. There were seven decks in all, a forecastle, three overall decks and a long bridge deck. There were bilge keels amidships for one third of the length of the hull and a balanced rudder fitted.
"The vessels have a straight stem and elliptical stern, are schooner-rigged, with two pole masts, and, being painted grey, with white upper works and yellow funnels, present a fine appearance." (Engineering).
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| The model shop of Fairfield Shipbuilding with a magnificent 12-foot model of Heliopolis/Cairo receiving final touches. |
And, yes, they were beautifully proportioned, handsomely lined ships with enough sheer to mitigate their short forecastles and while the superstructure was full, its long covered promenades precluded it from being top-heavy in appearance. The funnels, of course, were quite magnificent not only in their dimensions but in their proportions, rake and spacing. The livery especially pleasing, indeed quite novel for the era, with their silver grey hulls, pink-buff boot topping, red underwater hull, white upperworks and plain buff funnels and masts, all contributing to a light, graceful appearance.
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| French postcard of R.M.S. Heliopolis. |
This [Heliopolis], the latest creation of the Fairfield Shipbuilding Company, is in many respects the finest passenger vessel that has ever left the Clyde. Everything on this steamer is a little better and a little newer than on any steamer at present afloat. It is aim of every steamship builder to minimise vibration, and the reduction of this is especially noticeable on the new boat."
"Although speed is an important factor in travelling, this has been increased at the expense of comfort to the traveller, as the fittings and decorations in the Heliopolis are incomparable for beauty and taste.
Perhaps the greatest charm of the vessel lies in the variety of its design and the completeness of each variety. There is none of the same dead sameness that is too often the character of many liners. In each room the eyes are refreshed with beautiful design and new blendings of colouring.
Leeds Mercury, 2 December 1907
R.M.S. HELIOPOLIS & CAIRO
General Arrangement & Deck Plans
from Engineering 24 April 1908
(LEFT CLICK on image to view full size scan)
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| Boat Deck |
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| Promenade Deck |
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| Bridge Deck |
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| Shelter Deck |
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| Upper Deck |
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| Main Deck |
If speed dominated the specification, that for the accommodation was in no way ignored, either in intent or result. Indeed, for their size, Heliopolis and Cairo were the most opulently fitted and furnished passenger ships in the world, indeed more so than the new Lusitania and Mauretania in many respects. Designed to emulate the finest North Atlantic "floating palaces", they managed to exceed most of them. And, unique for the time, they were built and designed for pleasure.
The First Class, with berths for 703 passengers, was remarkable. Indeed, these ships had more accommodation in this class than did Lusitania/Mauretania and more than double that in Carmania/Caronia. The Second Class, with 281, was of comparatively high quality. And there was no steerage or third on this unique leisure oriented route.
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| Advertisements for Frank Collinson & Co., Bond St., one of Britain's leading decorative contractors, Heliopolis and Cairo were their first maritime project. |
The Edwardian Era introduced the professional interior architect, respected decorators and established outfitting firms to passenger liner interiors. Egyptian Mail engaged the well known London firm of Frank Collinson & Co. (established 1870) to design and execute the whole of the interior including all the furniture and soft furnishings. Frank Collinson had many commissions to decorate many private homes and estates in Britain, including several collaborative projects with Edwin Lutyens. For Heliopolis and Cairo, he created interiors firmly in the Belle Epoque Era of classic period revival and his experience with large houses and estates served him well in rendering the relative confines of liner public spaces.
The layout of the First Class was innovative with a vertical arrangement of the principal public rooms situated amidships, all built around the same central light/ventilation well that extended upwards from the Dining Saloon up through three decks to Boat Deck with accommodation fore and aft. "This lighting and ventilating-well has been most ingeniously treated, and serves to add to the decorative effect. This pieces the deck above through the centre of the first-class passengers' library and through first-class passengers' lounge. The dome terminates there in a central ventilating shaft, which passes through a vaulted skylight in the roof of this lounge. Thus there is central source of light for the three rooms, with satisfactory ventilation for the dining-saloon, without any effect on the sweetness of the atmosphere in the rooms above and around the well." Engineering, 24 April 1908. The Smoking Room, however, still enjoyed its traditional secluded aft position.
Moreover, by situating the main public rooms amidships in the superstructure, the best accommodation could be situated fore and aft on the two highest decks with windows rather than portholes, to afford better ventilation and shade from the covered promenades on the sides.
Boat Deck
The fore end of this deck was given to navigating officers accommodation (the bridge being directly above). Aft was the First Class a la carte Café, 63 ft. by 40 ft., a remarkable facility given that the concept had only just been introduced in Amerika two years previously. This was, appropriately enough, designed in Regency Style with oak panelling and had a seating capacity of 88 at small, private tables. In the centre was the open well over the First Class grand staircase. Amidships were the dedicated galley and pantry for the Cafe. And, traditionally as it as in those days, the Marconi wireless room in its "shack" right aft. Furthest aft was a neat covered seating alcove overlooking the stern. There were six lifeboats at radial davits on each side and a further set of collapsibles aft.
Promenade Deck
This featured a broad walk around covered promenade deck. Amidships was the First Class Music Room and Lounge, 45 ft. long by 30 ft., designed and furnished in Louis XVI style and finished in white with pastel blue upholstery. In the centre of the room was the large well conveying light to the library and the dining saloon on the decks below.
Forward and aft of the Music Room were groups of staterooms to accommodate two or three persons each, for a total of 133 berths. At the fore end were en suite rooms or cabine de luxe with bedroom and bathroom attached, "all of which are furnished in the most luxurious manner." Each was differently decorated and panelled in satin wood, oak, mahogany etc. Indeed, Heliopolis and Cairo had more such staterooms than any contemporary liners, reflecting the nature of their intended market.
Bridge Deck
This impressively extended from the stern to forward for about four-fifths of the ship's length with a steel deck house 300 ft. long flanked by a broad covered promenade. Another impressive block of en suite de luxe staterooms were situated forward and there was a total of 107 berths on this deck . Aft of these was the grand staircase and cabins for 2-3 persons, all outside with large windows. Amidships was the Library, again built around the central light well, and decorated in Louis XV style, panelled in oak, green upholstery and richly decorated with tapestries and hangings. Aft of another block of outside cabins was the large (50 ft. by 40 ft.) Smoking Room. Rendered in Queen Anne style, this was divided to cosy seating bays. Here, the panelling and ceiling was also in oak, red leather upholstery and the deck was decorative rubber tiles. "City men will find no more comfortable clubroom in the whole of London."
Aft was the Second Class open promenade deck, with fitted deck seating, and right aft a covered boat platform with a pair of boats in radial davits and another pair of boats inboard.
Shelter Deck
Forward was the forecastle with accommodation seamen and petty officers, then a well deck around the single forward hatch and then main superstructure. This housed a block of First Class cabins forward, the children's dining saloon inboard of the cabins on either side, the First Class foyer with purser and chief stewards offices and amidships, the First Class Dining Saloon. The entrance and staircase was panelled in beautiful teak and featured some original panels from an old French chateau and there was rubber tile decking underfoot.
Amidships was the impressive First Class Dining Saloon which extended the full width of the ship and was 77 ft. in length. This was rendered in Georgian style, enamelled in white with Genoa velvet upholstered chairs and polished teak decking with Wilton carpet runners. This had seats for 256 at "small" tables, no one table having more than sixteen seats. "One might almost think, on entering, that one had got into Savoy Restaurant by mistake, it being fitted out with small tables instead of the usual style." Along the sides were small bays, each with table for five. "In addition to the light obtained from side lights, there is an immense elliptic-shaped well in the centre of the saloon, ornamented and decorated and carried right up through the various decks to the weather-deck, thus conveying ample natural light to the central area of the saloon." At a recess at the fore end of the saloon was an upright grand piano and at aft end is a handsome sideboard.
Just aft of the First Class Dining Saloon and separating it from and shared by that for Second Class was the large galley. This was uniquely provided with its own light and air shaft extending up to the weather deck.
The Second Class Dining Saloon, 60 ft. x 50 ft., had seats for 180 at long tables in the centre running fore and aft and bays at the sides with smaller eight-seat tables. This was panelled and framed in mahogany, the dado was stained dark and the upper framing left in its natural colour. The Second Class Social Hall was aft in its own deck house and finally the Second Class Smoking Room also in its own "island", both surrounded by covered deck space.
Upper Deck
This was entirely devoted to accommodation. The portside was reserved for crew accommodation for stewards and firemen whilst the starboardside had First Class cabins forward to amidships and Second Class aft with the facility for interchangeability.
Main Deck
Similar to Upper Deck, the starboardside was passenger accommodation with First Class forward and Second Class aft.
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| A wonderful photograph showing Fairfield's fitting out basin at Govan during a busy 1907 with the Royal Navy cruiser Indomitable, CPR's Keewatin and Assiniboia and Egyptian Mail's Cairo and behind her, Heliopolis fitting out. The incomparably tall masts and funnels of Cairo and Heliopolis are shown to advantage. And, of course, quite delightfully, Keewatin survives today, the very last Edwardian era passenger vessel still extent. Credit: Paul Strathdee collection. |
Heliopolis and Cairo were happily free of the vibration issues that plagued some of the early turbine-powered liners, in particular Lusitania and Mauretania. But they had one fault that would remain with them throughout their lives: they were "rollers". If nothing else, the considerable amount of press (both popular and even shipping journals) articles categorically reaffirming their stability and seakeeping qualities merely gave credence to the prevailing contrary reputation.
Passengers on the Heliopolis report the behaviour of the vessel to be all that could be desired. The absence of vibration in any part of the vessel is notable, and bears testimony to the care and skill shown by the builders in the balancing and arranging of her machinery and propellers and in the stiffening and pillaring of her structure. The ease of her pitching motion when the wind and sea were ahead, and of her rolling with a beam sea, made it difficult to believe that one was really at sea at all when in a cosy deck state-room. Even when facing a gale of such violence that it was considered advisable to slow down to 10 knots to prevent danger of carrying away any of the forward-deck gear, the passengers were able to dine in comfort with having recourse to 'fiddles,' and with no risk of win spilling.
The Heliopolis and the Cairo have a period of roll of about 20 seconds, which is remarkably and unusually long for vessels of their dimensions; and this fact, together with the general excellence of their arrangements, make the voyage seem all too short for the full enjoyment of the many pleasures afforded."
Engineering
There were several reasons for their being "tender" ships, most of which stemmed directly from essentials of their specification: very narrow length to beam ratio, light draught, low displacement, low deadweight (both cargo and coal), foreshortened foreparts, high superstructures (designed to give two decks of accommodation with windows rather than portholes) and the top deck situated grill room with its adjoining extensive (and heavy) galley equipment. All this was exacerbated by their two towering funnels which having two separate flues each doubled the top hamper weight and equally lofty masts.
It could also be said that many of the above design elements that effected their seakeeping were indicative of ships so specifically designed for their originally intended route and service that their success and ensuing careers dependent on them. As such, they were actually very well designed just perhaps too much so for a specific route. Regardless, Heliopolis and Cairo were magnificent and beautiful ships in every respect, representing the acme of Edwardian naval architecture, engineering and decoration. And to this date, unsurpassed in the Mediterranean.
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| Heliopolis in dry dock at Glasgow, prior to delivery. Credit: International Marine Engineering. |
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| Credit: The Sketch, 2 October 1907. |
December 7 will mark a new era in British steamship enterprise on the Mediterranean. On that day the new service between London and Cairo, via Marseilles and Alexandria, will be commenced-- a new service which will be appreciated by the traveller who seeks sunshine, health, or novel experiences in the Near East.
Pall Mall Gazette, 3 October 1907
It was not often that a new line, with an entirely new service employing brand new ships came into existence, even during the heady days of the Edwardian Era. And the last quarter of 1907 was flurry of activity for Egyptian Mail on every front.
On 24 August 1907 it was announced in Rome that the line would serve Naples, en route, to and from Alexandria with departures from Naples every Saturday and from Alexandria every Wednesday.
The master of Heliopolis was announced on 3 September 1907, Capt. G. Gregory, R.N.R., formerly of Union Line. On the 19th, the date of the service beginning from Marseilles was set for 1 December.
It seems abundantly clear that the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company intend their new turbine steamers to carry British crews. I am told that the authorities at the London Sailors' Home have been applied in the matter, and that to-night they are dispatching to Glasgow twenty-five British seamen, all naval reservists, who have been drilling on the drill ship President. These men are for the liner Heliopolis, which sails not long hence on her maiden voyage to the Mediterranean. This is the first of two new turbine liner which the Company will employ in their fast service between Marseilles and Alexandria. In addition to this batch of naval reservists, to-night's train will convey to the Clyde six Warspite lads, who will also form part of the crew of the Heliopolis.
The Scotsman, 14 November 1907
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| Announcement of Heliopolis first voyage from Greenock to Marseilles. Credit: Daily News 27 November 1907. |
November 1907 was a memorable month for British Ocean Greyhounds, beginning with R.M.S. Mauretania's maiden voyage from Liverpool to New York on the 16th, while the Egyptian Flyers were fast nearing completion at Govan. The Glasgow Herald reported on 29 October that Heliopolis and Cairo "are now so far advanced in their fitting out that preparations are being made for their early trials". Heliopolis was scheduled to leave the Tail of the Bank on Thursday 28 November for Plymouth (30th), Marseilles and Alexandria. On 17 November Heliopolis came down the Clyde to the Tail of the Bank and was coaled by Messrs. Ross & Marshall. It was cold and foggy and "a large quantity of stores, including provisions, was this forenoon placed on board the new steamer Heliopolis which leaves the Tail-of-the-Bank to-morrow for the Mediterranean via Plymouth." (Greenock Telegraph and Clyde Shipping Gazette, 27 November 1907).
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| Advertising postcard of Heliopolis looking quite magnificent indeed anchored in Cawsend Bay, Plymouth. Credit: eBay auction photo. |
The stop at Plymouth was mainly to accommodate press and trade representatives on a preview voyage and close to 100 passengers and guests arrived at Princes Pier Station on the 27th to embark in Heliopolis which sailed at 1:00 p.m. from Greenock. By the time she reached the Isle of Arran, she had reached speed of 19 knots and over 60 miles from Corsewell Point to the Calf of Man she steamed at 21.8 knots. The new liner showed her paces alright and swept into Cawsend Bay just 23 hour later, averaging 19.5 knots for the passage and indeed, had to be slowed down towards the end so as not to arrive too early. The press reception was all that the management of Egyptian Mail could have wished for:
She was not pushed at all, but as a trial of her powers she was run at full speed over some sixty miles, ending at the Calf of Man, and then 21.8 knots per hour." "Those who made the initial trip from Greenock to Plymouth enjoyed every moment of it from the time the Heliopolis left her anchorage opposite the snow-capped hills which go to make up the "Duke of Argyll's bowling green' till she ran into the warm sunshine off Land's End and reached Plymouth. The running was smooth, and except at the extreme stern, over the screws, there was no vibration.
Morning Post, 30 November 1907.
The Irish Sea could not be described as rough, but a cross wind made it choppy. This had not the slightest effect on the Heliopolis, which ploughed the ocean so smoothly that one never had the recourse to his sea legs. The builders have reduced vibration to the vanishing point, and there were times yesterday when those seated in the dining saloon had to look out of the portholes to see whether the vessel was really moving. The directors of the company have been fortunate in their appointment of the first captain, Mr. Graham Halloway, R.N., who was formerly in in the P.&O. service, is an excellent commander, quite as popular as his ship. It was in these favourable conditions that the run of four hundred and eighty mile was performeed in a little over twenty-two hours, and by one o'clock yesterday the Heliopolis was moored in Plymouth Bay, whence she sails this afternoon with a goodly number of passengers for Marseilles. When she arrives there on Wednesday, two hundred more will embark for Egypt.
Manchester Courier, 30 November 1907
The Heliopolis is a lady-- a perfect lady, irreproachable in her looks and conduct, and while she represents the last word in marine engineering in such matters as stability and propulsion, she is no less supreme in those ministrations to the sense of elegant and comfort which so so far in deciding the preferences of the modern voyager.
Pall Mall Gazette, 30 November 1907
Another feature demonstrated on the trial run was the fact that the Heliopolis now holds the record amongst turbine steamers for the lowest coal consumption for speed and horse power. The turbines engines are 18,000-horse power, developing an average speed of 19 knots on 250 tons of coal per day, and the highest speed that has been attained is 22 knots.
Leeds Mercury, 2 December 1907
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| R.M.S. Heliopolis in Cawsend Bay, Plymouth. Credit: Illustrated London News, 16 December 1907. |
The passage down to Marseilles reminded just why so many Victorian and Edwardian travellers opted to travel overland to Southern France or Italy to embark for Egypt, India and Australia, being accomplished in full gale conditions in the Bay of Biscay. "From Plymouth to Marseilles she again showed her qualities as a racer, covering the distance in record time of 95½ hours." (Engineering).
With 400 passengers aboard, R.M.S. Heliopolis inaugurated the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. service on 7 December 1907 on her departure direct for Alexandria, the first two voyages not calling at Naples. Inexperienced stokers made for a disappointing first days run of only 395 nautical miles but increasing steadily to 456, 458 and the final 89 miles done in four hours. That first crossing occupied 72 hours 30 minutes.
Heliopolis arrived off the new breakwater at Alexandria at 4:00 p.m. on 11 December 1907 where she and her passengers were plunged into the chaos and confusion of Egypt, even Khedieval Egypt in Edwardian times. Berthing took three hours to accomplish as no ship of this size had ever berthed alongside at Alexandria. "When the ship moored chaos prevailed. Hundreds were waiting to get aboard, some of whom had to meet passengers, but most had come to see the ship, but orders were given that nobody was to be allowed aboard until the passengers were ashore. The crowd protested forcibly, a few succeeded in wiggling past the police, and finally the gangway was stormed and all came aboard. (Egyptian Gazette).
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| French postcard of Heliopolis. Credit: author's collection. |
There was more effusive praise for the ship on her arrival and indeed it was not often that the British expat community in Egypt found themselves with the world's newest and indeed one of the fastest passenger liners, all to themselves:
There has been great excitement this week in Alexandria, due to the arrival of the s.s. Heliopolis on her maiden trip from Marseilles in inaugurating the new express service of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company. There was quite a large crowd in the quays when the steamer arrives, and it took some little time ere could she be moored, owing to her size. This was the first time a vessel of her proportions has come alongside the quays in Alexandra. Hitherto all such steamers have anchored in the outer harbour."
All the passengers were loud in their praises of the accommodation and catering on board, and, indeed, from what one saw would be very hard to please if one could find anything to complain of. To celebrate the occasion the management of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company gave a luncheon on board the vessel. Invitations were issued to the Diplomatic Corps, the principal Government officials, merchants, and residents, and the special train that was placed at our disposal had a full compliment from Cairo. Everything was most excellently arranged, and the whole party returned from their trip delight with the entertainment and enamoured of the luxurious Heliopolis, or the 'Lusitania of the Mediterranean,' as some have facetiously dubbed her.
The arrival of the Heliopolis marks a new era in the annals of the Egyptian shipping world, and it is a great satisfaction to all on this side that the 'blue ribbon of the Mediterranean' is once more in British hand, and every one unites in wishing good luck to the company whose enterprise has achieved this consummation.
Pall Mall Gazette, 14 December 1907
Heliopolis! City of the Sun! And remarkably sunny she looked in Alexandria harbour on Thursday morning when a luncheon was given to over two hundred guests to celebrate the completion of her maiden voyage.
"There is a very large smoking room, with lounges and easy chairs, a tastefully decorated library, a charming drawing room, an enormous dining saloon, and a dear little café on the sixth (is it the sixth or the fifth?) deck which looks the acme of cosiness and comfort, an idealspot for tete-a-tete diners. There are also a large number of staterooms and all of them are as luxuriously as any suite of rooms in a first class hotel. The fact that the cuisine is under the direction of Mr. Gerlardi of Claridge's hotel fame is sufficient guarantee of its excellence, and there is a fine band of Italian instrumentalists and vocalists aboard. The passengers who landed on Tuesday last have nothing but praise for the new boat and seem, one and all, to have been delighted with their trip.
For Thursday's reception a special train conveyed the Cairo guests to and from Alexandria and the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company were most lavish in their hospitality not only on the Heliopolis itself but on the train, too, breakfast and dinner being provided for the passengers. A still larger number of guests came from Alexandria and the dining saloon was pack to its utmost capacity
The Egyptian Mail Steamship Company have certainly started their career under the happiest auspices, and in hailing the Heliopolis and wishing her every success in the future, we can promise as cordial a welcome and as hearty good wishes to her sister the Cairo when she appears."
The Sphinx, 14 December 1907
During the maiden voyage, the ship's on-board newspaper (one of the first of its kind), The Egyptian Mail, published its first edition and included a poem by Sidney Low in honour of Heliopolis:
No thing of poet's gossamer
But twelve good thousand tons of her;
Palace and town and home and street,
With iron lungs that breathe and beat,
The City of the Sun, once more,
Wings her swift way to Egypt's shore,
And bears us through the Middle Sea,
in Cleopatra's luxury.
Bears us from Northern fog and frost,
To that enchanted summer coast
Our Island of the Blest she is,
The Great Ship Heliopolis.
The return portion of the maiden voyage, beginning 14 December 1907 was slowed by persistent headwinds.
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| As a brand new line, Egyptian Mail had to recruit two entire crews for Heliopolis and Cairo and there were complaints of service during the early voyages. Credit: Morning Post, 17 December 1907 |
And the Egyptian Gazette was obliged to add to the headwinds with its own critique of the ship and service after the first round voyage: "It is not in the British character to pass without criticism even the most successful and praiseworthy enterprise, it is similarly a British characteristic to keep an open mind until such criticism can be met." It went on to cite the principal deficiencies: 1) high superstructure of the ship caused excessive rolling, 2) delays and disorder in docking at Alexandria and 3) defective service, citing "many complaints have reached us as regards the stewards on this steamer."
There was no was slackening the pace and on 28 December 1907 it was reported that Cairo would come down from Govan to Greenock during the first week in January 1908 and on the evening of the 9th, she did just that, "with all her electric lights lit she presented a fine appearance as she made her to the anchorage. This morning she proceeded down the firth for a series of trial runs." (Greenock Telegraph and Clyde Shipping Gazette).
Cairo left Govan on 7 January 1908 for drydocking and painting and went down the river on the 9th, running her trials the next day. She ran a series of progressive trials on the measured mile, varying from 11 knots to full speed. On a double run on the measured mile at full speed, she did 21.25 knots, three-quarters of a knot in excess of the contract. Then she underwent her 12 hours trials. "The special feature of the twelve-hours' trial was the uniformity of the speed of the three turbines:-- Port turbine 372.8 revolutions; centre turbine, 372.3 revolutions; starboard turbine, 372.4 revolutions. The sea trial began off Wemyss Bay, and the course was down the channel to within sight of the Chickens, and thence back to the Tail of the Bank. At the conclusion of the trials the engines were reversed from full speed ahead, and it was found that only 25 seconds elapsed until the stern turbines were in motion." (The Scotsman. 13 January 1908).
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| Cairo at Marseilles. Credit: author's collection. |
For her positioning voyage to Marseilles, there was no stop en route at Plymouth, and Cairo left Greenock on 18 January 1908: "The handsome new turbine steamer Cairo took her departure to-day from the Tail-of-the-Bank, where she has attracted considerable attention during the past week or so. About eighty passengers arrived at Princes Pier Station between ten and eleven o'clock in the forenoon, and were taken out to the liner by the G. and S.W. Railway Company's steamer Vulcan. There was a considerable amount of luggage." (Greenock Telegraph and Clyde Shipping Gazette, 18 January 1908). And whilst the Daily Telegraph noted that "The introduction of these two fast turbine boats is one of the events of the year's Mediterranean season, and marks a noteworthy development in the passenger steamship service of that great inland sea," Cairo, as the "second sister", was afforded the characteristic relative low-keyed debut.
On her maiden voyage to Alexandria, Cairo sailed from Marseilles on 26 January 1908, called at Naples the next day by which time she had 220 First Class and Second Class passengers aboard.
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| 1908 winter season sailings and fares for the Egyptian market. Credit: The Sphinx. |
With the advent of Heliopolis and Cairo, travel to and from Egypt enjoyed a brief but remarkable heyday. Indeed, no single destination enjoyed better or more frequently served with weekly sailings on the two most modern, fastest and luxurious steamships of their size and route in the world. And not just passengers benefited, but also mail communication between Egypt and Europe and Britain was materially enhanced. The Italian Government signed a mail contract with the line for the carriage of Italian mails between Naples and Alexandria in recognition of the speed and frequency the new service offered. That winter of 1908 the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. Ltd. had indeed accomplished precisely what it set out to do and in grand and impressive style.
Every Friday one could depart Victoria Station at 11:00 a.m. on The Mediterranean Express and arrive at Marseilles in time to sail in Heliopolis or Cairo at 11:00 am the next day, calling at Naples the following evening and sailing at 9:00 pm to dock at Alexandria on Tuesday morning. There, a direct train for Cairo left the quayside. The through fare from London to Cairo in First Class was £20 4 s. 11 d. and £14 3 s. 8 d. Second Class or adjusted for inflation, £2,371 and £1,511 respectively. There was a special return fare (valid for 12 months) of £37 19 s. 4 d. (£4,046) First and £27 6 s. 10 d. (£2,914). In addition, to cater to the German market, The Egypt Express went from Berlin to Naples to connect with the Egyptian mail ships, offering a direct Berlin-Alexandria link is four and a half days.
And style it was, with the new ships quickly featuring in the "Society Notes" of The Sphinx, the Sphere and The Tatler, their passenger lists amply sprinkled with nobility, famous politicians, composers and the cream of British and European society to whom Egypt was their winter mecca. In a society where to be to seen and with whom mattered, Egyptian Mail were the "it" conveyance of the 1908 winter season.
Egyptian Mail Director Baron Empain was among those disembarking at Alexandria on Christmas Day 1907 On 8 January 1908, T.R.H. Don Carlos de Boubon, Duke de Madrid and the Duchess of Madrid arrived in Alexandria in Heliopolis and Winston Churchill, MP and Colonial Office Under-Secretary, sailed on her return crossing to Marseilles in company with Major Wilson, coming home from his famous visit to Africa.
Lord Milner, the former Governor General of the Cape Colony, was aboard Cairo's maiden voyage to Alexandria, arriving 29 January 1908 and headed a glittering passenger list that also included Prince and Princess d'Arenberg, Count and Countess de Banneville, Count de Brioude, Lady Mary Boscawen, Major General Ralph Allen, Count J. van Lynden, Count de Gramedo, Vicomte Fontarce, Baron de Zuylen de Nyevette and Princess Tenicheff.
The man who later finance Howard Carter's discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in the Valley of the Kings, the Earl Carnarvon and the Countess, arrived in Alexandria in Heliopolis on 5 February 1908. As did the composer Giacomo Puccini who was coming over for a rest and also to attend a Cairo performance of his Madame Butterfly. Sig. Puccini apparently relished his time aboard and wrote effusively of the voyage, calling Heliopolis "magnificent." He sailed back in the same ship on the 20th. The day before Heliopolis numbered among her disembarking passengers Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Lord Charles Montagu, Comte du Harcourt, Sir Arthur and Lady Middleton. The French composer Camille Saint-Saens left Alexandria for Naples in Cairo on 27 February.
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| Captain Graham C. Holloway, R.N.R., on the bridge of R.M.S. Heliopolis. Credit: The Nautical. |
Whist docked at Marseilles on 27 February 1908, Heliopolis' Captain Holloway was awakened at 2:00 a.m. by "huge masses of fire were belching up from the sheds at the opposite end of the pier. The sparks and cinders were pouring over the Heliopolis and soon the whole wharf was a mass of flames." (Egyptian Gazette). The crew was immediately mustered to fire-fighting stations and preparations made to cast-off if the fire threatened the ship or the large consignment of coal stored nearby. After laying about 800 ft. of hose, Heliopolis' crew fought the fire for about an hour and a half before the city fire brigade took over and managed to extinguish the blaze without damage to the vessel.
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| Indicative of the quality that went into every aspect of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. was this wonderful advertising card by famed British painter and illustrator Dudley Hardy (1867-1922) in true Belle Epoque style. |
At first it was well patronised, but it has been found that the long railway journey across Europe is not popular; the majority of tourists prefer the sea journey from England without a break.
The Scotsman 23 June 1908.
Rather extraordinarily, Egyptian Mail's ambitions had even included vague plans for a third ship, to have been called Khartoum. Alas, it soon proved that a more suitable name would have been Necropolis, after Cairo's 7th century unique City of the Dead, a vast cemetery outside Cairo.
It would be difficult to recreate worse conditions in the world economy and shipping than prevailed precisely when Egyptian Mail went into business. The Panic of 1907, which begin in the United States in October, brought about by the collapse of the Charles Morse combine (which included a monopoly of U.S. coastal shipping), led to a broad, severe and lasting depression. As much as 50 per cent loss of share values in American market were sustained, capital dried up and with the increasing global nature of economies, spread to Britain and Europe. Even Egypt suffered its own economic meltdown. The effect on shipping was no less dire, indeed North Atlantic traffic dropped an astounding 70 per cent in 1908, made worse by rate wars brought on by the German lines.
For Egyptian Mail, the effects were immediate and impacted every aspect of the fledgling line. Additional financing dried up and the line had £404,237 in paid up capital, almost all of which was shares owned by their directors. The company was, in effect, short on capital from the onset and with the balance due on the construction contracts with Fairfields, the position was precarious. Revenue, too, was a fraction of what had been anticipated. This was, more than almost any steamship service, a discretionary leisure market and the market crash severely curtailed the Egyptian "season" in winter 1907-08. Worse, as they had on the North Atlantic, NDL instituted a rate war against Egyptian Mail as early as February 1908, cutting their First Class fares by £2 and this was matched by Austrian Lloyd.
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| Credit: Lloyd's List, 27 March 1908 |
As it was, the completion of Heliopolis and Cairo missed the early 1907-08 winter season entirely and as winter turned to spring, what bookings there were dropped off with the onset of the hot season in Egypt. One element that was never mentioned was how Egyptian Mail were to survive catering to what was an almost entirely seasonal trade October-April. Finally, there were the usual deficiencies of any brand new operation that took time to correct and by late winter Egyptian Mail were already out of time as much as cash.
At the time of Egyptian Mail's contracting their two new ships, it was speculated that this was somehow tied in with negotiations by Orient Line in renewing their mail contract to Australia on a expedited schedule that might involve the new ships, as Isis and Osiris did for P&O, to effect this. In fact, Egyptian Mail and Orient Line had no such plans. Too late, Egyptian negotiated an arrangement, in effect from 16 March 1908, with Ellerman Lines whereby through passengers on their service to India could do the outbound journey to Alexandria and then transfer, via train, to Port Said to the Bombay-bound "City" liner. It was, at best, a short-lived and unsatisfactory arrangement owing to the need to travel overland to Port Said. And, of course, it was contrary to the entire business plan of Egyptian Mail to cater solely to the direct Egypt trade.
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| Credit: Daily Mirror, 8 March 1908 |
Meanwhile, Heliopolis and Cairo sailed on, carrying, on average, little over 200 in First Class and often only a few score in Second Class on each crossing. Indeed, it is quite possible that many cabins and berths were never occupied during their short careers. Although for those who did book, it must have been a delightful experience be among only two hundred others enjoying all that magnificent accommodation.
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| The galley staff of Heliopolis. Credit: delcampe.net |
But the rolling, the rolling... if there were not sufficient challenges already, the issue of the ships' seaboat qualities continued to come up, somehow made worse by tedious and obviously "planted" rebuttals in the press:
Some critics have declared that these vessels have a tendency to roll. The facts, however, are as follows: both the steamers have a period of roll of about 20 seconds, which is remarkably and unusually long for vessels of their dimensions. Though to the layman their superstructure might have an appearance of top-heaviness yet the upper structures are really of very might construction, so that although they may bulk very large to the eye, their weight is trifling compared with the masses of hull, machinery, coal, stores and other weights below the water level. Notwithstanding the height of these vessels above water, tey have a very large range of stability in all conditions of loading. The inclining tests carried out by the builders on these, as on other vessels, showed that they might be forcibly heeled over to an angle of over 70 degrees or nearly on their beam ends-- with absolute safety. At the same time the metacentric height and the distance of their decks from the center of gravity have the effect of making the rolling motion very slow and easy, a matter conducing greatly to the comfort of passengers.
Egyptian Gazette, 17 March 1908
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| R.M.S. Cairo. Credit: The Engineer. |
On 1 April 1908 the company's service went to fortnightly sailings with the coming of the off season. Indicative of the state of affairs, Heliopolis docked at Alexandria on 5 April with just 60 First Class passengers aboard. There would have been just 59 where it not for a lucrative diversion to Naples where she had originally not been scheduled to call, but a passenger offered an inducement of £500 to pick him up there.
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| French postcard depicting (as they often did) Cairo in stormy seas. Alas, by the first quarter of 1908, Egyptian Mail were rocked by tempests of the financial variety. Credit: eBay auction. |
By then, the financial situation was in extremis. With Egyptian Mail unable to pay the balance past due to Fairfield's, the shipyard placed liens on Heliopolis and Cairo on 16 April 1908. Operations continued for the balance of the month and throughout May, but by June, the company faced additional debts of £35,673 and was unable to pay the last bunkering bills for Cairo at Marseilles.
Heliopolis arrived at Marseilles on 16 June 1908 and was laid up there. Cairo left Marseilles for Alexandria on the 20th June and on return, she, too, was be laid up. At the time, Lloyd's List (22 June) reported: "According to present anticipations both vessels will remain at Marseilles during July and August, and will be running again by the middle of September, when the season recommences." While the Daily Telegraph (23 June) added: "with the practical conclusion of the Mediterranean season, the Heliopolis is no longer running, while the Cairo, which sailed from Marseilles for Alexandria on Saturday, will on her return to the French port also remain in dock during July and August. In the ordinary way the boats would begin running again about the middle of September, when Mediterranean season recommences, but something will obviously depend on the course of the liquidation proceedings which, it is understood, have been set on foot by the company in order to secure additional capital."
Worse, on 25 June 1908 when the Marseilles firm of Watson & Parker, coal merchants, presented Capt. Gregory of Cairo with a bill for £2,529 for two bunker deliveries made earlier than month, he was unable to pay it. Action was taken against him and Cairo was placed under arrest.
On 22 June 1908 it was announced that a meeting of the shareholders of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. was to be held in London 29 June to consider the following resolution:"That is has been proved to the satisfaction of this meetings that the company cannot, by reason of its liabilities, continue its business, and that is advisable to wind up the same, and accordingly, that company be wound up voluntarily." Mr. John Annan, chartered accountant, appointed liquidator. In the event, there was no decision arrived at during the meeting.
In the Chancery Division, before Mr. Justice Parker, on 17 July 1908, an application on behalf of Baron Edouard Empain, was granted for the appointment of a receiver and manager of the assets of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company. Baron Empain had a claim of £44,000 secured on the whole of the undertaking except for the uncalled capital. The receiver was empowered to remain in control through 1 December. A meeting of the creditors was called for the 24th.
Efforts were immediately undertaken to find buyers for the ships, but given that Heliopolis and Cairo had been purposefully designed for a very specific and unique service, they were, despite their newness and quality, all but impossible to dispose of, requiring substantial alterations for almost any other kind of employment. Their lack of bunker capacity, in particular, was very constraining. Early efforts were made to offer the ships to Furness Withy and whilst for what was not mentioned, it may have been an early interest in employing them on the New York-Bermuda route where they would have been ideal, although the market was still in its infancy. The truth was that the middle of a worldwide economic and shipping depression was not a propitious time to be selling two route specific large passenger vessels.
The Civil & Military Gazette (7 August 1908), in reporting that Austrian Lloyd, Trieste, "is now in negotiation for their purchase, it would appear, therefore that the negotiations with Messrs. Furness Withy & Co. , are expected to fall through. Nothing apparently has been completed. The awkward thing about these steamers is that can only carry a few days' coal consumption and really unsuited for anything but the Egyptian traffic between Marseilles and Port Said, and it would come as a surprise if so astute a shipping concern as the Austrian Lloyd, of Trieste, were to undertake the practically impossible task of running successfully such a service as that instituted by the company now in liquidation."
With no immediate sales prospects, on 7 September 1908 Greenock Telegraph & Clyde Shipping Gazette wrote: "It is stated that there are now definite prospect of a reconstruction of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company, and that the two splendid 12,000 ton turbine steamers Heliopolis and Cairo, will in probability run with mails and passengers between Marseilles and Alexandria in the coming winter." But efforts continued to find a buyer as Lloyd's List of the 16th reported: "it is of interest to note that efforts have been made to sell the vessels to one of the Australian steamship lines, but so far, it is believed, without success."
With additional financial backing from Baron Empain, Fairfields took the unusual step to reactivate and operate the ships themselves. On 15 September 1908 The Times reported "Some surprise is expressed in shipping circles at the announcement that the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. will resume its service between Marseilles and Alexandria at the end of October." In the end, this was not accomplished and again, the early season was missed as well the prime advance booking period. With the additional financing, holders of unused tickets were at least paid off and arrears in salaries, etc. made good.
Meanwhile Lloyd's List reported on 24 October 1908 that "The withdrawal of the steamers of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company from the Marseilles-Alexandria route doubtless accounts very largely for the increased demand for accommodation on steamers from United Kingdom ports to Egypt. From Liverpool there are few berths to be obtain during the next month or so, as all the steamers were practically fully engaged some time ago."
The charms of Egypt lie in the brilliance of its skies, the wonders of its antiquities, the stimulation of breezy deserts. An interesting question is whether the Egyptian Mail steamships are to resume their service from Marseilles. They are admirable boats, turbines, and a credit to British enterprise, for they aimed at providing Atlantic luxury on the sunny waters of the Mediterranean. One hope their retirement is only temporary.
Westminster Gazette, 2 November 1908.
On 13 November 1908 in Admiralty Court awarded Watson & Parker, coal merchants of Marseilles, their settlement in full, with costs, and when this was paid, Cairo was at least free of legal entanglement. The same day a new liquidator, Edward Dexter, was appointed for the line after the death of John Annan.
Finally, on 11 December 1908 it could be announced that Heliopolis and Cairo would resume service early next year" from Marseilles to Alexandria with calls at Naples and, now, Messina. The following date the start up date was fixed at 4 January.
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| Newspaper advertisements for the resumption of the Egyptian Mail service by Heliopolis 4 January 1909. |
Lloyd's List of 15 December 1908 stated: "We are informed that the enterprise is being resumed under the auspices of a wealthy syndicate, largely French, and that there has been difficulty in the provision of the necessary capital. The whole enterprise will, it is stated, be the subject of reorganisation. The first of the two steamer to sail will be the Heliopolis, which leaves Marseilles on Jan. 4. A few days ago a number off quartermasters, leading hands and Warspite lads were engaged for the vessel from the Well-street Sailors' Home. To-day other necessary hands for the steamer are in process of selection."
More financial details were published in The Globe 23 December 1908:
According to the scheme of arrangement which is shortly to be submitted to the creditors and shareholders of the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company, whose luxuriously-fitted turbine steamers have been taken over by a foreign syndicate. the capital is to be £400,000, half in ordinary shares of £l, entitled to a fixed dividend of 6 per cent., and half in deferred shares of the same value. There are also to be created first mortgage debentures to the value of £250,000, bearing 4 per cent interest. These debentures, it is proposed, should go to the holders of the present outstanding mortgages in satisfaction of their claims, priority creditors are to be paid in full in cash, and unsecured creditors are to accept a composition of 6s. 8d. in the £ when the new company is formed. An issue of 40,000 ordinary shares is to be made in the first instance, the holders being entitled to five deferred shares, fully paid, for each £1 share allotted. Baron Edouard Empain, a director, underwrites the shares rot subscribed, and receives the balance of the deferred shares as commission, and also 160,000 ordinary shares in satisfaction of his claims under the second mortgage.
A meeting of shareholders and creditors was set for 12 January 1908 was set to vote on the new scheme. At the meeting, liquidator Edward Dexter stated that "there was desired on the part of certain large shareholders, many of them resident aboard, that further time should be allowed for the consideration of the scheme of arrangement. The shareholders who made these representations had very considerable holdings, and after full consideration it was thought best to move the adjournment of the meeting. The meeting was accordingly adjourned till February 5." Westminster Gazette, 12 January 1909.
Meanwhile, after six months idleness, Heliopolis (Capt. Gregory) sailed as planned from Marseilles on 4 January 1909 but owing to the devastating earthquake there, the call at Messina was cancelled and the ship arrived at Alexandria on the 8th, departing later that day for Marseilles. Bookings remained light and the concern as to the service's future weighed heavily, prompting the Egyptian Gazette to write: "So many rumours have been in circulation regarding the uncertainty of this Company's sailings that the public have in some cases been deterred in booking their passages. We are in a position to re-assure them on this point." In the event, Naples remained the only Italian call, for what would prove the final sailings of Heliopolis from Marseilles on 16 and 27 January.
At the meeting of the creditors on 5 February 1909 the proposal to reorganise the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co. was rejected.
On 1 February 1909 Heliopolis had left Alexandria for the last time, arriving at Marseilles on the 3rd.
The attempt to resuscitate the Egyptian Mail Steamship Company's service between Marseilles and Alexandria has failed, and I understand that the two fine turbine steamers, Cairo and Heliopolis-- two of the finest vessel that have every made their appearance in the Mediterranean-- are for sale or charter. They were built by the Fairfield Company in 1907, and are splendid specimens of Clyde workmanship. On the particular route on which they ran there is an over-supply of tonnage, besides which the majority of passengers desirous of visiting Egypt from this country or Germany prefer the all sea-journey. The bulk of the capital is French, although a good many shares are held in England. At present the company is in liquidation, a proposal to reorganise it on a paying basis having been defeated. The Cairo, I understand, has not made a single voyage this season. The Heliopolis has completed her third voyage. It is probable that their passenger accommodation will be reduced, so as to afford more room for cargo. It is of some significance that tenders are to made only to the Fairfield Company.
The Scotsman, 22 February 1909
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| Credit: Syren & Shipping, 24 February 1909 |
Having exhausted all leads towards a buyer, Fairfield's put Heliopolis and Cairo up for public auction by Messrs. C.W. Kellow, shipping auctioneers. The reserve price was £150,000 each or, extraordinarily, less than half of their original contract price. The auction was held at the Baltic Exchange Sale Room on 11 May 1909 and attracted over 200 attendees. There was not a single bid.
On 27 May 1909 former Egyptian Mail Director Alfred George Curphey appeared in London bankruptcy court, the collapse of the line had cost him £40,000 in the now worthless shares in the company.
So ended the Egyptian Mail Steamship Co., their demise as dismal as their plans and the ships and service that achieved them had been splendid and triumphant. It was a remarkable enterprise which, for only a span of months, fielded the finest passenger service in the Mediterranean, to date still unequalled and produced two of the most beautiful liners to maintain it. Heliopolis and Cairo would eventually find new owners, purpose and profit in different climes and clients. But were never more beautiful or appealing than they were during that brief, splendid winter of 1908.
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| The Greyhound of the Middle Sea: R.M.S. Heliopolis. Credit: The Shipbuilder. |
Built by Fairfield Shipbuilding & Engineering Co., Govan Yard nos. 449 (Heliopolis) & 450 (Cairo)
Gross tonnage 10,897 (Heliopolis)
10,864 (Cairo)
Length: (o.a.) 545 ft.
(b.p.) 525 ft.
Beam: 60.2 ft.
Machinery: triple screw direct drive Parsons turbines, four double end and four single ended boilers, 195 psi. 16,800 shp
Speed: 18 knots service
20.75 knots trials
Passengers 703 First Class 281 Second Class
Officers & Crew 314
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© Peter C. Kohler
Really splendid. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi Peter - brilliant article. You may be interested to know that we suspect we have some of the wood panels from the Heliopolis / Cairo in our house. Very interested to find out more about their origins / designer. Any idea on where to start?
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