Wanted On Voyage: March 2022

Canadian Pacific perfects a glamorous combination of speed and luxury, names it Empress of Japan, and dedicates it to service on the Pacific Ocean, between the ports of Vancouver, Victoria, Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Manila.

This great steamship is the Canadian Pacific's latest conception of swift luxurious comfort in Ocean travel. Nothing on the Pacific matches it in speed. Nothing on the Pacific approaches it in size. Nothing on the Pacific surpasses it in sumptuous beauty. Empress of Japan in name, in fact is Empress of the Pacific, a steamship that glorifies transport on this most glorious of oceans.

Presenting Empress of Japan, Canadian Pacific brochure, 1930.

It would be hard to find any other series of ships, built for their own particular route, so splendid and outstanding in every way as the 'Empresses,' and particularly the utterly magnificent Empress of Japan, the finest of them all.

J.H. Isherwood, Sea Breezes, October 1986.

A ship supreme, an Empress for the Ages, she was one of the first truly Great Liners of the 1930s. A vessel of prepossessing presence, she, unlike her contemporaries -- Empress of Britain, Normandie and Rex -- went on to a long and distinguished career of 36 years in peace and war. For the first nine, she dominated not the well trod North Atlantic sealanes, but the vast expanses of the North Pacific where she had no equal and remains to this day, the finest, fastest and largest passenger ship on that greatest of all oceans.

Her advent, with that of Empress of Britain, elevated an entire transportation system-- The All Red Route-- to a pinnacle of perfection, linking The British Empire and Mother Country by spanning a great Dominion twixt east and western seas, with liner and transcontinental railway, all under the Red Ensign. Yet, this was no stodgy imperial mailship, but a ship of matchless 'thirties flair, the most stylish of all British liners of her era whose glittering passenger lists including Babe Ruth, Pearl Buck, President Quezon and the King and Queen of Siam, summed up the last great Era of the Liner.

Her career on the Ocean Highways was long, but like most ships, she had her heyday, and this was doubtless and definitively her pre-war service as the undisputed Empress of the Pacific, 1930-1939, and this is the focus of this chronicle of but a phase of the life of this extraordinary passenger ship: R.M.S. Empress of Japan.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan, Charles Edward Dixon (1872-1934), 1929. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Forever Empress of the Pacific: R.M.S. Empress of Japan sails from Vancouver on her second voyage. Credit:Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

This article is dedicated to Dr. Wallace B. Chung of the University of British Columbia whose remarkable passion for the Canadian Pacific and breathtaking collection of photographs, brochures, documents and artifacts, now donated to the University, allows the story of the C.P.R. to be researched, recorded and shared with the world it uniquely spanned.

The launch of 16 ships, aggregating 213,000 tons, for one company within the space of three years provides a record unparalleled in the annals of the mercantile marine throughout world. All but three were built on the Clyde.

The Scotsman, 31 January 1930

The C.P.R. is a British institution, a link in the chain of Britain's All-Red communications around the world, but it is just as much an American enterprise as though operated under the States and Stripes. Probably as many Americans patronize the line and its steamships carry as much American cargo as do Canadian or British, and despite the intense appeal to Americans to travel on American ships, the Empress liners have held their own in the competition for American passenger and cargo trade. The clock-like schedule maintained by the C.P.R. on its trans-Pacific run has set an example of regularity in arrival and departure from the various ports of call, that other steamship lines have been compelled to follow.

By dint of hard, up-hill, persevering work, splendid performance, regularity, courtesy, safety and special attention to the wants of its passengers, the Empress liners have built up a reputation in the Pacific surpassing many of the more majestic floating palaces who cater to the luxury travel across the Atlantic. The C.P.R. is in the Pacific to stay. No matter how keen the rivalry, it can be counted on to keep at least one hop ahead of its competitors in the size, speed and appointments of its vessels.

The latest addition to the C.P.R. fleet is typical of that spirit of progress that within the next two decades, will be called upon to supplant the vessels of today with luxurious floating palaces for the Pacific as large as those now operating on the Atlantic.

The Far Eastern Review, August 1930

Epic Enterprise, two words that perhaps best sum up the origins and early history of The Canadian Pacific, from the construction of the trans-Continental Railway to the creation of the first coordinated global transportation system of railway, steamships and hotels to establishing a new trans-Imperial route. What had begun in 1881 reached a zenith half a century later with the commissioning of R.M.S. Empress of Britain for C.P.'s North Atlantic service, a year after the introduction of R.M.S. Empress of Japan for the Pacific service. Not only were they the ultimate realisation of C.P.'s President William Van Horne's "All Red Route," but they capped another era of Epic Enterprise begin in 1919 by C.P.'s current President, Sir Edward Wentworth Beatty.

Sir Edward Beatty (1877-1943). Credit: City of Vancouver Archives.

Sir Edward Wentworth Beatty GBE KC (1877-1943), the first Canadian-born President of Canadian Pacific was, without question, its most dynamic and expansionist since Van Horn, and one of the great Canadians of his age. Assuming the Presidency of C.P.R. reluctantly (his ambition was to be a judge) in 1918, Beatty transformed the Company in all its aspects, including late in his tenure, establishing Canadian Pacific Air Services. It was Beatty who built the Royal York Hotel in Toronto, the largest in the Dominion, and was forever a tireless champion of populating the great Canadian West. But it was mostly in C.P. ships did the "Beatty Touch" show, with the remarkable commissioning, between 1919-1931, of no fewer than 22 new ships at a cost of £20 mn., which gave C.P. the most up to date fleet in the British Merchant Navy and put Canada at the nexus of trans-Atlantic and trans-Pacific travel.

Largest of the initial C.P.R. post-war newbuildings was the Fairfield-built 21,517-grt Empress of Canada for the trans-Pacific run which entered service in May 1922.. Credit: Dalmadan.com

The initial post-war C.P. Atlantic fleet reflected what Beatty believed was the future and role of the Company and for the Dominion as a whole: the populating of the great Canadian West, "the Empire's Breadbasket." If the United States severely restricted immigration in 1922, the British and Dominion Governments instead enacted comprehensive assisted immigration schemes which swelled the population of the country not to mention C.P.'s passenger lists. To cater to this trade, Beatty championed the so-called two-class "Cabin Boat" which the company had helped to pioneer with Missanabie and Metagama of 1915, and commissioned Montcalm, Montrose and Montclare in 1922.

For the Pacific route, the wonderful old Empress of Japan, the last of the original trio that had helped to establish C.P's first trans-ocean service in 1891, was replaced in 1922 by the 21,517 grt Empress of Canada. She and the Montcalms proved, with rampant post-war inflation, the most expensive ships per ton the Company ever contracted and Beatty turned to ex-German tonnage to further replenish the war-depleted fleet with Empress of Scotland (ex-Kaiserin Auguste Victoria) for the North Atlantic run and Empress of Australia (ex-Tirpitz), the later joining the Pacific fleet in 1922, bringing it up to the required four-ship level partnered with the 1913-built Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia.

To bring the Pacific fleet up to the required four ships, C.P. acquired the former German liner Tirpitz which, as Empress of Australia, entered service in 1922. The most luxurious ship on the route, she was also slow and mechanically unreliable. Credit: Dalmadan.com

The inspiration for the second generation of inter-war newbuildings could be summed up in two words: machinery and market. The immediate post-war ships, with their early geared Brown-Curtis turbines and conventional boilers had proven prone to breakdowns and were very heavy on fuel, whilst the adopted Empress of Australia had shown herself too slow for the trans-Pacific route. Moreover, during the prosperous 'twenties, C.P.'s North Atlantic trade shifted away from the carriage of assisted immigrants to a growing two-way tourist traffic whilst there was increasing demand for cargo space, especially wheat and lumber shipments.

To meet this new demand, it was decided to build a new fleet of fast cargo ships and a quartet of much more tourist oriented "Cabin Boats." There would also be a bold effort to tap the lucrative high-end trans-Atlantic trade from the U.S. Midwest away from New York, with a new "superliner" of a size, speed and luxury never before seen on the St. Lawrence route.

On the North Pacific, a ban on Chinese immigration had negated much of the traditional steerage trade and C.P. sought to instead cash in on the development of Hawaii as a tourist destination, begun in earnest in 1927 by Matson's new Malolo and the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. Whereas Honolulu was a regular call on the Canadian-Australian route from Vancouver to the Antipodes by Aorangi and Niagara, it was definitely "off track" for C.P's direct Vancouver-Far East run, to the tune of an extra 1,500 miles.

Canadian Pacific route map from the mid 1930s showing the traditional direct Vancouver to Yokohama route and the much longer (1,500 miles) diversion south to include Honolulu which inspired the need for faster ships to maintain it. Credit:Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Such was the promise of the Hawaiian trade that the Company decided by the late 1920s to replace Empress of Australia (which would, after re-engining join the North Atlantic service) with a new, much faster 21-knot ship, intended like the new Super Empress for the North Atlantic, to be the largest and finest ship on her route and re-engine Empress of Canada to allow the pair to incorporate a call at Honolulu whilst still maintaining a 13-day passage time to Yokohama and sail from Vancouver to Honolulu in the same time (5 days) Malolo did the shorter run from San Francisco.

So it was that the epic newbuilding plan would itself be capped with the two most audacious passenger liners conceived for Canadian Pacific which in all respects proved to be the Ultimate Empresses on both the Atlantic and Pacific.

All of these new ships would incorporate the latest ideas and concepts formulated by C.P.'s Superintending Engineer, John Johnson, towards the adoption of very high pressure, superheated watertube boilers to materially increase their steaming efficiency and economy.

With typical Beatty drive and determination, all of this resulted in one of the most remarkable newbuilding and refit programmes of any British line. What was formulated in 1926 was entirely accomplished by mid 1931, giving Canadian Pacific the most modern fleet of any British or indeed any liner company. Further, it took advantage of lean order books in British yards in the mid to late 1920s and per ton, these ships cost far less than the initial post-war newbuildings whilst being of a far more modern quality.

Upon arrival at Southampton aboard Empress of Scotland on 3 June 1926, E.W. Beatty, when interviewed by the press, revealed his intention to place orders for seven new ships during his stay in Britain as well as the re-engining of Empress of Australia and her deployment on the North Atlantic. The total cost of the newbuilding contracts was estimated at £3 mn. or $15 mn.

S.S. Beaverburn, lead ship of C.P.'s record breaking newbuilding programme of 1926-31, the crowning glories of which were Empress of Japan (1930) and Empress of Britain (1931). Credit: shipspotting.com

Beginning the programme with orders placed on 25 June 1926 for the cargoliners Beaverburn, Beaverford, Beaverdale, Beaverhill and Beaverbrae and the first two 18,000-ton Duchesses (Duchess of Atholl and Duchess of Bedford) with Tyne and Clydebank yards, it was literally just the beginning. Two more Duchesses (Duchess of Richmond and Duchess of Cornwall which would be launched instead as Duchess of York) followed as did five Princess coastal vessels.

A common sight along the Clyde in 1927-28, another new Canadian Pacific ship is launched. Here, Duchess of Richmond "takes the water" on 18 June 1928. Credit: dalmadan.com

Epic Enterprise indeed and between 27 September and 23 November 1927 alone, more than 72,000 tons of ships for Canadian Pacific roared down the ways at Clydebank and Tyneside: the five "Beavers," Duchess of Atholl and Princess Elaine, a world's record for one private company. Added to these were three more Duchesses and Princess Norah launched in 1928, it made for 11 ships, totalling 138,898 grt, sent down the ways for Canadian Pacific in one year and two days.

In all, the Canadian Pacific newbuilding programme, 1926-1931, comprised the following

Name Tonnage Builder Completion

Beaverburn 9,874 grt Denny, Dumbarton Dec 1928

Beaverford 10,042 grt Barclay Curle, Glasgow Jan 1928

Beaverdale 9,957 grt Armstrong Whitworth, Newcastle Feb 1928

Beaverhill 10,041 grt Barclay Curle, Glasgow Feb 1928

Beaverbrae 10,041 grt Armstrong Whitworth, Newcastle Mar 1928

Princess Norah 2,731 grt Fairfield, Govan Dec 1928

Princess Elaine 2,027 grt John Brown, Clydebank Mar 1928

Duchess of Bedford 20,123 grt John Brown, Clydebank Jun 1928

Duchess of Atholl 20,119 grt Beardmore, Dalmuir Jul 1928

Duchess of Richmond 20,022 grt Beardmore, Dalmuir Jan 1929

Duchess of York 20,021 grt Beardmore, Dalmuir Mar 1929

Empress of Japan 26,032 grt Fairfield, Govan Jun 1930

Princess Elizabeth 5,251 grt Fairfield, Govan Mar 1930

Princess Joan 5,251 grt Fairfield, Govan Apr 1930

Princess Helene 4,055 grt Denny, Dumbarton Aug 1930

Empress of Britain 42,348 grt John Brown, Clydebank May 1931

In all, the 16 ships totalled 217,935 gross tonnage.

It was to be a return, too, to the era of The White Empresses of the Pacific and Canadian Pacific as announced on 20 December 1926 that starting with Empress of Asia during her forthcoming overhaul in Hong Kong, she and her fleetmates will return to the distinctive white hulls banded with blue worn before the war. Empress of Asia arrived at Vancouver so attired on 24 January 1927 following by Empress of Russia on 13 February and Empress of Canada on 6 March.

On 1 February 1928 the Glasgow Herald reported that "half a dozen British firms are understood to be interested in a proposed large passenger vessel for the Canadian Pacific Company's Transpacific service" and this was followed up on the 14th; "There are two large Canadian Pacific liners, it seems, instead of one, and are, it is understood, to be high-pressure turbine steamers. They are for the Pacific service. Five firms are interested in this service, and all of them have built vessels of this size and type."

Construction of a transpacific liner as large as R.M.S. Empress of Canada is planned by the Canadian Pacific Steamships Limited, for service out of Vancouver and Victoria, it is announced by Captain E. Beetham, general superintendent of the company.

Times Colonist, 17 February 1928

Captain Beetham, returning to Vancouver from a conference of C.P.R. executives in Montreal where plans for the new liner had been discussed, stated it was planned that the ship would be ready by 1930, to "be as large as the Empress of Canada," have a speed of 21 knots and would not replace Empress of Asia or Empress of Russia and bring the C.P. Pacific fleet to four vessels.

At the Annual Meeting of the C.P.R. at Montreal on 2 May 1928, Chairman E.W. Beatty revealed plans, "to replace one of the older first class vessels on the Atlantic service and build a new vessel of the same general type as the Empress of Canada for the Pacific service" and that the Company's directors had decided to ask the shareholders' approval for the construction of the two vessels. Beatty added that that "It is considered essential that a fortnightly service should be re-established on the Pacific, the future trade on which offers great possibilities."

In Britain to sign the contract, on 27 June 1928, E.W. Beatty announced the placing of an order with Fairfield Shipbuilding and Engineering Co., Ltd, Govan, for the new Pacific Empress. Her preliminary dimensions were announced as 662 ft. (length), 83.5 ft. (beam), 25,000 grt,thus exceeding Empress of Australia as the largest ship in the C.P.R. fleet and 4,500 tons larger than Empress of Canada. This was followed on 30 July by the statement she would be "placed in commission on or before June, 1930" and be powered, like the Duchess-class ships, by high-pressure turbines of 25,000 shp and have a speed of 21 knots. It was further announced that to make her a suitable running mate, Empress of Canada would be re-engined in Britain, sailing from Hong Kong on 28 November via Suez and returning the following October.

Early rendering of Empress of Japan showing her with the buff strake under her Promenade Deck as given to the other Pacific Empresses which she, in fact, did not receive upon completion.

It is worth noting that the cost of the new ship, as reported in the company's Annual Report of 1928, £1.27 mn., was two-thirds of Empress of Canada whose astonishing cost of £1.7 mn. reflected the out of control inflation in shipbuilding costs immediately after the Great War.

As a fitting tribute to the storied first Empress of that name, it was announced in Vancouver on 4 September 1928 by E.W. Beatty that the new ship would be christened Empress of Japan which caused as much satisfaction in Japan as it did among nostalgic travellers and ship buffs. The old ship ranked as one of the most handsome ever built and on the 26th the Gazette (Montreal) suggested her namesake would be as good looking: "Her schooner rigging on the two pole masts and straight stem, raking slightly forward, combined with a white hull banded with blue and her smart yellow funnels, will give the effect of a beautiful yacht, through her tonnage of 26,000 gross, her eight decks and her service speed of 21 knots emphasize the difference between this white greyhound and the trim pleasure boats she will resemble."

The beginning of a great ship on the shores of the Clyde, the keel of Stephen's no. 634 is laid down at Govan. Note the hull of the light cruiser H.M.S. Norfolk, later famous in the hunt and destruction of the German battleship Bismarck, on the right which was sent down the ways on 12 December 1928. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Another view on the keel for no. 634 on the slipway. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

On 18 December 1928 it was reported that the keel of the new ship (yard no. 634) "was being laid down" at Govan and that to date since the end of the war, C.P.R. had spent £12 mn. on new ships, not including the two new Empresses (the second of which, to be Empress of Britain for the North Atlantic run having been contracted in October). The exact date her keel was laid seems lost to time but photographs of the event show the almost complete hull of the light cruiser H.M.S. Norfolk still occupying the adjacent slipway and she was launched on the 12th. Yard no. 625, Taranaki for Shaw Savill, had been launched on 12 October and it is possible the keel of no. 634 was laid after the shipway was cleared. Framing of Empress of Japan was completed by March 1929 and fast progress on her construction continued apace.

By late summer 1929, no. 634 had a name, Empress of Japan, and was well along in construction. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

In London on 31 October 1929, it was announced that Empress of Japan would be launched 17 December by Mrs. E.R. Peacock, wife of the Director of Canadian Pacific Railway.

Slipping down the greased ways enshrouded by fog that lifted as if by a miracle just as a mighty splash heralded the birth of a new sea giant the Canadian Pacific liner Empress of Japan was launched at half-past twelve today by Mrs. E.R. Peacock, wife of the Canadian financier. In charge of a veteran launching pilot and speeded on her way by hoarse cheers of thousands of the workers of the Fairfield Shipbuilding Company, the great liner destined to be the queen of the Pacific, slid rapidly and easily into her natural element.

Liverpool Journal of Commerce, 19 December 1929

Dense fog overhung the city of Glasgow, the shipbuilding yards at Govan and the River Clyde on the morning of the launching date. Long before noon, the hour set for the launch, crowds of spectators from the surrounding districts were assembling at the Fairfield Company's yards. The tremendous bulk of the great white liner on the launching ways was, however, quite invisible from anywhere but the very nearest vantage points.

Even the invited guests of the Fairfield Company and the Canadian Pacific could not see her until they came with a few yards of the launching platform erected for the occasion under the ship's bows. Then, as they approached through the silvery fog, they became suddenly aware of the great and almost ghostly appearance of the white liner's towering prow looming majestically above them. Gradually a glowing red globe of sun to the eastwards gained slight power over the fog, revealing ever so little in places the graceful outlines of the ship, about which, like great skeletons in the gloom, stood the tall derricks and gantries.

But, although the launch was delayed moment by moment in expectation of a lift in the fog which shrouded the river, the word to launch was actually given with dramatic effect, while the grey mantle still hung thick upon the scene. Then the great ship, released by the touch of a lady's hand, paused for one last shuddering instant on the ways, murmured her good-bye to the thrilled group of guests on the launching platform, and in one second was gone into the veil of the mist.

Perhaps there has never been so swift and dramatic a departure of ship from launching place. Spectators gasped, then broke into a great cheer. After what seem almost an age of breathless doubt, the tremendous thunder of the checking chains, announcing their power to restrain the mighty bulk of the liner in her plunge into the Clyde, fell with reassuring clamor upon the ears of the waiting guests, again there broke forth a loud outburst of cheering. The good ship Empress of Japan was launched successfully, and the hoots of syrens from tugboats on the Clyde announced, through the gloom, that her little sisters of the river had welcomed her and were taking her safely in charge.

The Province, 19 January 1930.

Ready for christening, Empress of Japan showing off her magnificent bows on the slipway. Credit: The Engineer.

The launching of Canadian Pacific's largest to date liner, the largest ship to be launched that far up the Clyde River and the largest British-built liner since the Great War, was successfully accomplished albeit in dismal weather conditions, indeed so thick was the fog the morning of 17 December 1929 along the banks of the Clyde that the event was almost called off. On launching platform were Sir Alexander Kennedy, managing director of Fairfield; Sir George McLaren Brown, European general manager, C.P.R., Rear-Admiral Sir Douglas Brownrigg, Capt. J. Gillies, general manager of C.P.S. As it was when, at 12:30 p.m., Mrs. E.R. Peacock struck the hammer to release the bottle of champagne and activate the launching mechanism, the bottle merely bounced off the stem and a quick acting Sir Alexander Kennedy, took matters literally in hand and smashed the bottle against the hull just before it began moving down the ways. Such was the fog that the white painted mass disappeared in the gloom and only the dull roar and splash indicated to the onlookers that Empress of Japan was indeed afloat.

In such thick fog as to obscure even the immediate onlookers, Mrs. E.B. Peacock about to launch Empress of Japan at Govan on 17 December 1929. Credit: Dundee Courier, 18 December 1929.

The Launching of Empress of Japan by Charles Pears. Commissioned by CPR, it was prominently displayed in the ship's main staircase and auctioned by Bonhams in April 2023.

Uniquely, there were no published photographs of the launch indicating just how dire the conditions had been. However, the event was captured by famed British maritime painter Charles Pears (1873-1955) for a painting which had pride of place in the ship's main stairway.

At the post launch luncheon, Sir Alexander Kennedy, Chairman of the yard, "congratulated the Canadian Pacific upon the splendid share it has taken in the development of Canada and the Empire, and expressed his pride that his company, in building four Empresses of which the magnificent Empress launched today is the greatest."

No time was lost in completing Empress of Japan and within an hour of her being launched, she was alongside the fitting out basin and her foremast was stepped. Note the dusting of snow on the quay and the still dense fog on a resolutely miserable launch day weather-wise.

It was made known on 13 January 1930 that Capt. Samuel Robinson, C.B.E., R.D., R.N.R., of Empress of Canada would be promoted to command the new ship. Capt. Robinson, who first joined the Company in 1895 at the onset of their trans-Pacific operations, was one of the most famous captains on the Pacific or indeed the Merchant Navy after his heroic actions during the Tokyo Earthquake in 1923 when commanding Empress of Australia which was in Yokohama at the time. Back when liners were real celebrities, his appointment only added to the building glamour and anticipation of the new ship.

Empress of Japan fitting out at Govan, February-March 1930. Credit: Dalmadan.com

Early into the New Year and the new decade, British shipbuilding was enjoying prosperous and busy times, completing a flush of orders from the now past "Roaring 'Twenties" and before the slump in America spread worldwide. Fairfield's fitting-out basin in Govan was busy with Empress of Japan joined by the cruiser Norfolk with the C.P.R. coastal steamers Princess Joan and Princess Elizabeth on the stocks along with the new Bibby liner Worcestershire and two paddle steamers for Southern Railway, Southsea and Whippingham. Such activity extended down the whole of Clyde with Empress of Britain well underway at John Browns, two motorliners for New Zealand Shipping Co. and two turbine steamers (Karanja and Kenya) for B.I. at the Linthouse yards of Alex. Stephen.

A Golden Age for Clyde Shipbuilding, the late 1920s-early 1930s, vividly shown in this photo of Fairfield's fitting out basin in Govan in spring 1930: from left to right: H.M.S. Norfolk, C.P.R.'s Princess Joan, Empress of Japan and the Southern Railway's Southsea. Credit: The Glasgow Story.

On 27 February 1930 details of the ship's first voyages were revealed. To provide a suitable long distance trials of her machinery (as had been done with Empress of Canada), it was arranged for her to make one roundtrip on the company's North Atlantic Express Service, departing Southampton on 14 June and arriving Quebec on the 20th. Sailing for Southampton on the 24th, she would leave there on 12 July for Hong Kong, in ballast, via Suez to take up her trans-Pacific duties on 7 August. Her maiden arrival at Vancouver was to be 24 August and her maiden westbound voyage on 4 September. In the event, she instead sailed from C.P.R.'s long established British terminus of Liverpool but would return to Southampton.

Credit: The Victoria Daily Times, 6 June 1930.

Empress of Japan in the Clyde during trials. Credit: The Late Allan Green Collection Victoria Library Australia.

Preparatory for her trials, Empress of Japan left Fairfields on 5 May 1930 for drydocking at Messrs. Workman, Clark's Thomson Dock, Belfast, and was undocked on the 8th. She was joined alongside by the new White Star liner Britannic at the deep-water wharf and scheduled, like the C.P.R. ship, to enter service in June, both representing the latest developments in large diesel and high-pressure steam turbine liners respectively.

Returning to the Clyde, Empress of Japan, commanded by Capt. Notley of Fairfield, began her trials on the measured mile at Skelmorlie on 11 May 1930. Exceeding the expectations of her builders, she achieved 22.38 knots on her full speed trials on the 12th before returning to Govan for final fitting out.

No effort was spared to ensure the new ship had a suitable and symbolic first arrival at her twin British Columbia homeports of Victoria and Vancouver. On 7 June 1930 plans were announced to celebrate her passing the mounted figurehead of the original Empress of Japan at Stanley Park, Vancouver, overlooking Burrard inlet, with a dipping of her ensign: "The prow of the former Empress, scarred by the sprays of 2,235,368 miles of travel between Vancouver and Manila Bay, silently will receive the homage of the new giantess who bears her proud name and witness the coming of the largest, swiftest and most luxuriously appointed liner on the Pacific." (The Victoria Daily Times, 7 June 1930). It was also mentioned that the new ship's Capt. Robinson, Staff Captain A.J. Holland, Chief Purser Ernst Syder and Chief Engineer James Lamb had all served in similar roles aboard the old Empress of Japan.

Perfection accomplished, R.M.S. Empress of Japan leaves Fairfield's Govan yard as some of the men who built her watch her departure. Credit: Larry Sandu Collection via Flickr.

Canadian Pacific Apogee: Empress of Japan, sailing from the builders, passes Empress of Britain on the ways at John Brown's on 8 June 1930, three days before The Prince of Wales would christen her. Credit: The Scotsman, 10 June 1930.

Leaving the river of her birth, Empress of Japan departed Govan on 8 June 1930. As she sailed slowly down the Clyde, she passed the imposing hull of Empress of Britain on the stocks at John Brown's, Clydebank, three days before she would be launched by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. It was a memorable first encounter indeed, representing not only the cap of one of the most significant newbuilding programmes ever undertaken by a single company in so short a span, but proving to be the apex of the Canadian Pacific shipping saga, the first meeting of what would be the largest, finest and fastest ships ever built for their respective routes.

Pristine, perfect and looking absolutely magnificent, R.M.S. Empress of Japan arrives at Liverpool 8 June 1930 from the builders. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

On Whitsun Monday, 8 June 1930, Empress of Japan arrived at Liverpool and entered the Gladstone Dock.

Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Empress of Japan represents the last word, a new glorification to travel between Occident and Orient. Exteriorly the liner is a creation of flashing beauty. Hull and towering superstructure are gleaming white. A ribbon of blue beads the main deck and above all towers a trio of giant funnels painted the characteristic buff of the Canadian Pacific.

Cool, restful beauty, cool restful appointments characterize the interiors of the Empress of Japan, all designed to afford superlative comfort to passengers during warm Pacific days and nights.

The Honolulu Advertiser, 9 September 1930

... a truly magnificent ship, beautifully proportioned, graceful and yet with the look of tremendous power.

J.H. Isherwood, Sea Breezes, October 1986

... She has the rake and sheer lines of 'thoroughbred racer.'

Pacific Marine Review, August 1930

Was there a finer passenger liner ever built? Speed, size, splendour, stylish interiors and sigh-inducing lines, Empress of Japan "had it all," a ship supreme in a decade that produced so many great liners. Literally the last word in trans-Pacific express liners, she, too, was the culmination of Canadian Pacific's ambitions to weld Canada into a vital link in the Imperial chain of communication. Paired with the magnificent Empress of Britain on the North Atlantic, these two Ultimate Empresses were without equal, ushering in a heyday that, like all good ones, was all too short. Those lucky enough to have been aboard Empress of Japan on any one of her but 58 round voyages, experienced the acme of ocean travel and the apogee of an era that was destined not to outlive her on the vast expanses of the Pacific Ocean.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan, inbound from the Orient, approaching Vancouver. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Like Empress of Britain, Empress of Japan was the epitome of the "one-off" ship, yet neither was created in vacuum or descended from the Ocean Liner Gods, but rather the combined culmination of that remarkable fleet of Canadian Pacific newbuildings of the mid 1920s. They owed much to the Duchesses of 1928 in their advanced naval architecture and marine engineering and to that magnificent if flawed German hand me down, Empress of Australia, for their lavish passenger facilities and accommodation. Empress of Japan, too, by her name and her duty, assumed the mantle of the matchless record of the first Empress of Japan and was a special ship all the more because of it. Fifty-eight times, her successor passed the figurehead of the old clipper-stemmed greyhound mounted in Stanley Park, as she cleared Vancouver, Cathay-bound, carrying on the tradition that forever put "Pacific" in Canadian Pacific and adding its greatest and enduring laurels.

The overall design of Empress of Japan was contracted to Messrs. C.S. Douglas & Co., Glasgow, headed by naval architect Dr. Charles S. Douglas (1874-1942) who had been involved in the design of nine previous newbuildings for Canadian Pacific. Earning his B.Sc. Degree at Glasgow University in 1899 and Doctor of Science in 1914, Dr. Douglas was for some years a member of the designing staff at John Brown & Co., Clydebank and later assistant to Sir John H. Biles, Professor of Naval Architecture at Glasgow University as well as being a business partner of Sir John for 14 years. He then started his own firm of consulting naval architects and engineers in Glasgow. Canadian Pacific's own Hugh R. McDonald planned many of the ship's passenger service areas and John Johnson, Chief Superintendent of C.P., was responsible for the design and specification of her machinery. Her interiors were designed by Messrs. P.A. Staynes and A.H. Jones. The same essential team would also be responsible for Empress of Britain. What a remarkable and wonderful pair of ships they created!

R.M.S. Empress of Japan, outward bound from Vancouver. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

With principal dimensions of 660 ft. (length o.a.), 640 ft. (length b.p.) and 83.5 ft. (beam) tonnage measurements of 26,033 gross, 15,725 nett and 10,200 dwt, Empress of Japan was and remains the largest liner ever built especially for the trans-Pacific run. In size, she was exceeded only by her immediate (literally completed at the same time) contemporary Britannic (26,943 grt, 712 ft. by 82 ft.) as the largest British-built ship since the war at time of completion.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan at Piers B-C, Vancouver. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Empress of Japan alongside the Rithet piers, Victoria. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

There were nine decks in all: Sun, Boat, Promenade, "A" (Bridge), "B" (Shelter), "C" (Upper), "D" (Main), "E" (Lower) and "F" (Orlop). The hull was built on a two-compartment standard, divided by 10 watertight bulkheads with 21 sliding watertight doors, operating on the Brunton hydraulic system. There was a full double bottom carried out to the ship's side some 7-ft. and used for fresh water or ballast. For extra spaciousness, the Promenade Deck was extended 2 ft. over the sides and the deckheads heightened here as well as overhead domes or spaces which extended through to Boat Deck in way of the principal public rooms. Firedoors were fitted above "C" Deck at key locations.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan: powerful, purposeful presence. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Her extra deck, sweeping promenades, and huge funnels seemed somehow to increase her bulk disproportionately, and to both the passerby and the visitor on board the Empress of Japan seemed to be very much larger, in comparison to the Empress of Canada, than she actually was.

Empress to the Orient, W. Kaye Lamb.

Empress of Japan indeed dominated her running mate, Empress of Canada (21,517 grt, 627 ft. by 77 ft) but was as graceful as she was imposing. Few passenger liners before or since managed to combine a sense of power and proportion better than this latest and last Pacific Empress. Whilst Empress of Canada, like her contemporaries on the North Atlantic, the Montcalm-trio, continued the C.P. pattern begun with Misssanbie and Metagama of a hull centric appearance with low superstructure and thin funnels, Empress of Japan improved on the visual breakthrough achieved by the pacesetting Duchesses, melding perfectly a high freeboard hull with a solid, substantial superstructure that was quite built-up and dominate forward and transitioned to perfectly proportioned but quite massive and impressive funnels and what became a trademark, a cluster of very nautical cowled ventilators arrayed around each. Adding to the overall effect was the adoption of gravity davits which not only provided far more deck space but raised the lifeboats sufficiently to balance the high superstructure house behind them. The well flared bows with their massive and imposing anchor boxes, straight but raked stem and the traditional "sloped" cruiser stern transitioned well to a quite beamy hull and the whole packed topped off by lofty and well raked masts and, of course, that matchless White Empress livery. Overall, Empress of Japan simply looked... bloody marvelous.

The Bows. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Bridge & Forward Superstructure. Credit: City of Vancouver Archives.

Funnels & Ventilator Cowls. Credit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/charlesinshanghai/50864905063

The superstructure and boats. Credit: City of Vancouver Archives.

The stern. Credit: City of Vancouver Archives.

It is no exaggeration to say that the machinery of the Empress of Japan is one of the most efficient marine installations yet produced, says the August issue of The Shipbuilder. The design is the logical outcome of the ideas initiated by Mr. John Johnson, the owners' chief superintendent engineer, and which were embodied first in the Empress of Australia when that vessel was fitted with new machinery' at the Fairfield establishment a few years ago.

Liverpool Journal of Commerce, 7 August 1930

If one man could be credited with revitalising Canadian Pacific's fleet, both cargo and passenger, trans-Atlantic, trans-Pacific and coastal, from the mid 1920s to the early 1930s, it was John Johnson, Chief Superintendent Engineer from 1924 up to the war. Whilst the company had invested heavily in a flurry of new ships immediately after the First World War, notably the three North Atlantic intermediates Montcalm, Montrose and Montclare and Empress of Canada for the North Pacific, their early Brown-Curtis geared turbines proved cantankerous and heavy on fuel. Adding to the mechanical woes was the otherwise splendid Empress of Australia, the former Tirpitz, which was ceded to C.P. as war reparations whose machinery was as unreliable as it was slow.

Enter John Johnson whose passion for high-pressure, superheated, high-efficiency steam turbine plants promising great economy and high speed formed the essential design credo of C.P.'s "second generation" of newbuildings in the mid 1920s, ships new and novel in every respect and among the most impressive on an engineering perspective of any British liners of the era.

R.M.S. Duchess of Bedford, the first passenger vessel with high pressure superheated watertube boilers and one of the great groundbreaking liners of the inter-war period. Credit: shippinghistory.com

Johnson first applied his theories with the re-engining and re-boilering of Empress of Australia in 1926 and even with conventional boilers working under moderate pressure but superheated, achieved a fuel consmption of 0.71 lb. of oil fuel per s.h.p. per hour whilst increasing her speed from 16.5 knots to 19 knots and a maximum of 20.34 knots on trials. The first use of Yarrow water tube boilers working at 252 psi combined with three-stage Parsons turbines was in the five-strong Beaverburn class of cargoliners of 1927-28. The real groundbreakers were Duchess of Bedford, Duchess of Atholl, Duchess of Richmond and Duchess of York of 1928, the first merchant ships with true high pressure (370 psi), a fuel economy of .625 lb., the first British Atlantic liners with gravity davits and the first British liners with contemporary interiors. They were the finest intermediate class liners in the world at their introduction and in every respect set the pace for the ultimate Empresses, Japan and Britain.

If Empress of Australia was the exemplar to exceed in accommodation, Empress of Canada was the ship to best in terms of speed and the new Duchesses' machinery the means to accomplish it. Designed with a service of 21 knots (comparable to the re-engined Empress of Canada), Empress of Japan could make 22 knots in favourable conditions and could, in effect, cut a day off the passage, doing the classic Vancouver-Yokohama North Pacific Express run, some 4,200 miles, in about eight days.

In fact, the greater speed of Empress of Japan and the decision to re-engine Empress of Canada to give her comparable service speed had less to do with record breaking and more to the decision in late 1928 to add Honolulu to the trans-Pacific run. The 1,500 extra miles for the diversion was only possible with far faster ships assigned to it. As it was, it was only originally effected westbound but in 1931 when both Empress of Japan and the re-engined Empress of Canada had settled down, it was made permanent in both directions for both ships whilst Empress of Asia and Empress of Russia maintained the direct North Pacific route. As it was, Japan and Canada were that much faster than their American and Japanese rivals, that they did Yokohama to Honolulu in just seven days, a day faster and could steam from Vancouver to Honolulu in the same time as Malolo, a much longer route.

Even so, Empress of Japan managed to break and hold practically every speed record along her route and segments thereof, some of which remained unchallenged until the 1960s. She remains the fastest liner ever built for the North Pacific service. Only when P&O-Orient began to operate Canberra and Oriana on trans-Pacific segments as part of round-the-world itineraries in the mid 1960s did these speeds be matched.

R.M.S. EMPRESS OF JAPAN

Principal Speed Records 1930-1939

Yokohama - Race Rocks (Victoria, B.C.) (direct)

22 August 1930 8 days 6 hours 27 mins. 21.04 knots

20 February 1931 8 days 3 hours 18 mins. 21.47 knots

17 April 1931 7 days 20 hours 16 mins. 22.27 knots*

*this was not beaten until 1962 by the American-flag cargoliner Washington Mail.

Yokohama - Honolulu (direct)

30 May 1935 6 days 8 hours 39 mins. 22.16 knots

April 1938 6 days 8 hours 33 mins. 22.17 knots

Honolulu - Yokohama (direct)

1 November 1934 6 days 16 hours 53 mins

Honolulu - Race Rocks (Victoria, B.C.)

20 March 1933 4 days 8 hours 3 mins 22.28 knots

Kobe - Yokohama

11 February 1931 15 hours 54 mins

Fastest Average Speed Obtained

May 1935 Honolulu to Race Rocks 22.37 knots

One of Empress of Japan's main turbines (left) and one of the enormous Yarrow high pressure superheated boilers (right). Credit: The Far Eastern Review.

Empress of Japan was the first (and, of course, only) Pacific Empress whose complete machinery installation was designed by John Johnson and represented, as did Empress of Britain, all of his innovations and achieved to maximum effect the economies, efficiencies and performance derived from them.

One of Empress of Japan's massive screws, then the largest single cast propellers in the world.

The machinery installation followed that so successfully introduced in the Duchesses although far more powerful. The engines were two sets of triple-expansion single-reduction geared Parsons turbines, each driving twin screws. At the time, Empress of Japan was the largest twin-screw liner in the world and her screws the largest single cast screws in the world at 20 ft. in. diameter and weighing 20.5 tons each.

The steam plant consisted of six Yarrow-type boilers, fitted with superheaters (725 deg. F), working pressure of 425 psi and operated under forced and induced draught. These were supplemented by two Scotch-type boilers, 17 ft. 8 in. in diameter, working at 200 psi, for auxiliaries. The boilers, all oil-fired, were arranged in two stokeholds, two Yarrow and the two Scotch boilers in the forward compartment and four Yarrows in the aft one, each venting into their respective working funnels. The third funnel, considered a necessity for the Chinese market, served to vent the engine hatch. Two 600 K/w turbo generators in the aft engine room and four diesel 308 K/w generators in the forward engine room provided the electrical supply. By using diesel generators, it was possible to completely shut down the steam plant in port.

Arrangement of forward engine room showing the four diesel generators. Credit: The Far Eastern Review.

The total weight of the machinery installation was 3,200 tons, a reduction of 200 tons over that in Empress of Canada, but generating one-third more horsepower. By reducing the number of boilers from 12 to six in the new ship, three tons of connecting piping alone was eliminated. Like Empress of Canada, the new ship carried 6,100 tons of oil bunkers and had a steaming radius of 13,000 miles.

The main engines developed 30,000 shp with five boilers on line (one usually being rotated on reserve for underway maintenance) giving the 21-knot service speed at 120 rpm whilst the maximum normal horsepower of 33,000 produced 23 knots. On her trans-Atlantic trials/working up voyage, she averaged 21 knots on 26,100 shp and her fuel consumption was but 168.8 tons a day for all purposes and only 154 tons for her main machinery. On her final record run, from Yokohama to Honolulu in May 1938, her 22.17-knot average speed was obtained at 28,908 s.h.p. 121 r.p.m. and she burned 195.32 tons day.

Overall, Empress of Japan's economy represented a 12 per cent improvement over the Duchesses, a remarkable achievement that well earned her a reputation for being one of the most efficient and economical express liners in the world.

Sideview cutaway of the two boiler rooms (venting into the first two working funnels) with the swimming pool in between. Credit: The Far Eastern Review.

In service, Empress of Japan proved both reliable and accomplished all that was expected of her as the doubtless Greyhound of the Pacific. With her high freeboard and long bows, she proved a fine, dry seaboat and only her massive superstructure and funnels caused some anxious moments coming into Victoria during windy conditions with Capt. Robinson declining to bring her alongside there if the winds there were too strong.

The second Pacific liner (following Aorangi) to have all gravity davits, which greatly increased deck space, Empress of Japan's boatage comprised ten 89-person capacity lifeboats, six nested 46-person boats, two 30-ft. motorboats with wireless and direction finding equipment and two 25-ft. emergency cutters with 46-person capacity, all at Welin-Maclachlan Patent Gravity Davits. Following C.P. custom, all of the boats were smartly painted mahogany colour.

Although primarily a passenger vessel, Empress of Japan had considerable cargo capacity, consisting of 304,000 cu. ft. including 59,000 cu. ft. on the Main and Lower Decks especially set aside for the silk trade and 33,000 cu. ft. of insulated space. If needed, the portable Asiatic Steerage space could be removed to bring the total cargo space to 380,000 cu. ft. whilst reducing Steerage berths to 480. The six holds were worked by a total of 23 derricks at the masts and three pairs of kingposts, the derrick at the foremast having a 20-ton load capacity, and all operated by electric winches.

Almost as impressive as the real thing was the enormous builder model of Empress of Japan made by Fairfields which was shipped to Canada and first displayed at Windsor Station in Montreal on 20 August 1930 as shown above. It measured 13 ft. in length, two-feet in width and four-and-a-half feet in height. This magnificent model is part of the Vancouver Maritime Museum collection. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

R.M.S. EMPRESS OF JAPAN

General Arrangement & Rigging Plans

(from Shipbuilding & Shipping Record, July 1930)

credit: William T. Tilley

(LEFT CLICK on image to view full size scan)

Rigging Plan.

Sun Deck.

Boat Deck.

Promenade Deck.

Bridge (A) Deck.

Shelter (B) Deck.

Upper (C) Deck.

Main (D) Deck.

Lower (E) Deck.

Orlop (F) Deck.

Hold.

Deck Plans (c. 1937)

credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

(LEFT CLICK on image to view full size scan)

Sun Deck.

Boat Deck.

Promenade Deck.

"A" (Bridge) Deck.

"B" (Shelter) Deck.

"C" (Upper) Deck.

"D" (Main) Deck.

"E" (Lower) Deck.

Fit for an Empress: The Palm Court aboard Empress of Japan.

The ornamental designs and costly furnishings of the public rooms, the majority of which are located on the promenade deck, immediately place the Empress of Japan in the front rank of luxury liner. The decorators, realising that a great number of her days will be spent in warm climates, have avoided the use of too warm furniture coverings.

The lofty walls of the public rooms are mostly of untouched or merely waxed wood, which enables the natural beauty of the grain to act as a main decorative feature. A fine example of this 'nature' treatment, which has been also carried out in the de luxe suites and special staterooms, is the lofty, glass-dome lounge in pale mountain ash and walnut. Characteristic here, as in all the public rooms on the Empress of Japan, is the wealth of light obtained by day from large windows and domes, and by night from a maze of electric light effects.

The Province, 19 January 1930

If the Duchesses formed the efficient basis for the new Empress' speed, their decor set the pace for her style. Indeed, like the Duchesses were on the North Atlantic, Empress of Japan was the first British non Atlantic liner with contemporary interiors. Together they created a unique C.P. look that managed to combine the metropolitan sophistication of London's Dochester Hotel with a hearty hint of Canadiana by virtue of their wealth of warm naturally finished woods (many of North American variety), strong almost rustic carvings and striking native American influenced striped and patterned soft furnishings. As such, they reminded one of Canadian Pacific famous chateau-like hotels in the Canadian Rockies and the West.

All of this came at the inspiration, as did everything connected with the Golden Age of C.P., of Sir E.W. Beatty who in addition to all he accomplished as the chief executive of the greatest transportation system in the world, was also a tireless supporter of education and the arts in Canada. He was determined that the second generation of inter-war C.P. ships assume a unique Canadian character that complimented that achieved with its hotels, including the Royal York in Toronto, the greatest hotel in the Dominion (and for a year, its tallest building), and one of Beatty's flagship projects which opened in 1929.

If the Royal York was designed by a Canadian firm, Beatty entrusted the interior design and decoration of the Duchesses and Empress of Japan (as well coordinating the interiors of Empress of Britain) to C.P's British corporate architects: Messrs. P.A. Staynes, R.O.I, and A.H. Jones, F.R.I.B.A, who typically as being "foreigners" managed to created something uniquely 1930s Canadian, a "Dominion Deco" if one might say, with their interiors that was delightfully distinctive yet establishing a "corporate image" that was one of the forerunners of the genre yet managed to do so with nary a beaver or maple leaf in any of it.

A selection some of the poster art for Canadian Pacific by P.A. Staynes, that in the centre being for the new "Duchesses" he and A.H. Jones created the pacesetting interiors for.

Percy Angelo Staynes (1875-1953) was a unique ship interior decorator being, first and foremost, an artist of considerable merit. Indeed, he was the only liner designer who, at the same time, created the visuals to promote those very same ships in the form of posters and brochure graphics. He worked as a painter in both oils and watercolours and illustrated several books including Roundabout Ways by Ffreda Wolfe (1912) and Gulliver’s Voyages the same year. Born in Nottingham, he studied at Manchester School of Art, the Royal College of Art and Julian’s in Paris. Staynes was elected a member of the Royal Institute of Oil Painters in 1916 and a member the Royal Institute of Painters in Watercolour in 1935. During the First World War he served in the East Yorkshire Regiment and after the war, formed a partnership with architect A.H. Jones whose first major commission for C.P.R. was the design of their pavilion at the Wembley Empire Exposition of 1924.

With their first maritime commission, Staynes and Jones broke new ground with the Duchesses, not just in their decor but in their uniquely modern circulation areas that reminded of metropolitan hotels like the Royal York right down to the introduction of "revolving doors" from the promenade deck to the "lobby" with its arcaded shops, lifts and phone booths.

For the new Pacific Empress, something rather grander and more impressive was sought and here the inspiration for space and scale was Empress of Australia whose German-originated luxe and expansive character of her public rooms and accommodation had yet to be matched in the C.P. fleet, even by another ex-German liner, Empress of Scotland. For example, the deckheads of the Promenade Deck public rooms of the newest Empress were 14 ft. high, the same as Empress of Australia, and two feet higher than on Empress of Canada, whilst the dining room was anticipated by an expansive reception room/foyer and the dimensions of the First Class staterooms met or exceeded those of the Australia. In all respects, Beatty intended Empress of Japan to be the finest ship not only on the Pacific but of her size in the world.

Wonderful Stewart Bale photo looking aft from the bridge and showing Empress of Japan's matchless array of funnels and cowled ventilators as well as her open Sports Deck. The rather heavy and unsightly awning supports were removed by her second trans-Pacific voyage.

First Class sports deck (Sun Deck). Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class open promenade (Boat Deck). Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The total area of promenade space on Empress of Japan was 31,800 sq. ft., compared to 20,700 ft. on Empress of Canada and 16,500 sq. ft. on Empress of Australia. The sports deck, on the housetop of the Boat Deck, measured 240 ft. fore and aft and 17 ft. wide with the centre portion measuring 52 ft. by 32 ft. The open promenade on the Boat Deck extended some 310 ft. fore to aft and averaged 15 ft. wide whilst the open space aft, on a raised island, measured 50 ft. by 20 ft. The covered promenade on either side of the Promenade Deck was 310 ft. long, and 14-feet wide, four feet wider than the comparable space on Empress of Canada.

First Class Gymnasium (Boat Deck). Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Boat Deck, otherwise devoted to officers accommodation forward and 28 First Class staterooms (most with shared or private facilities) and all with windows, also had the First Class Gymnasium forward, an exceptionally large and well equipped facility with large windows and with a lift which accessed the indoor pool five decks below on "D" Deck. Some 300 ft. of open promenade flanked the deckhouse, three-quarters of which was reserved for First Class and the aft section for Second (Tourist) Class.

First Class covered promenade looking forward (Promenade Deck). Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class covered promenade looking aft (Promenade Deck). Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The ship's showpiece was her Promenade Deck, one of the most impressive of any liner before or since. Taking full measure of the very long superstructure and her great beam, it was flanked by 300 ft. of expansive covered promenade, 14-ft. wide, and the interior featured 14 ft. high deckheads throughout with two-deck high domes and wells in the principal public rooms and circulating areas. Even without divided funnel uptakes, the use of glass doors and interconnecting foyers and long galleries permitted a clear 300-ft. portside vista aft from the Palm Court/Ball Room to the Smoking Room. The centerpiece and linking it all was vast Entrance Hall amidships, of large metropolitan hotel size and scale. Here, Canadian Pacific's aim of exceeding the spaciousness and grandeur of Empress of Australia was fully realised.

First Class Palm Court (Ball Room). Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Farthest forward, the Palm Court/Ball Room, was one of the ship's showpieces both for its spaciousness and successful dual purpose qualities. During the day, with its expansive sea vistas through large windows forward and on the sides, framed by palms and flowers in its Palm Court role and, during the evening, as a glittering Ball Room enhanced by its richly decorated ceiling which could be illuminated by color changing lighting effects. Ornamental fountains, flower boxes and lightly hued furnishings imparted the Palm Court flavour whilst the superb inlaid parquet floor and dramatically rendered orchestra platform gave the requisite Ball Room character and features. The panelling here was natural oak with gilded decoration.

First Class Childrens Playroom. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The children's room on the starboardside of the Promenade Deck, directly aft of the Palm Court/Ball Room, was decorated to appear "as a red-tiled cottage standing in a painted flower garden. The illusion of a doll's house is complete, even to the wonderful toys and sleeping cots hidden in a bower at one end."

First Class Card Room. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Situated on the starboardside of Promenade Deck, aft of the Children's Room, the Card Room and the Writing Room were panelled in the early Georgian manner with a light coral hue in the Card Room whilst the Writing Room was painted in cream. Both featured soft, subdued lighting from a coved ceiling with mahogany furniture and a marble fireplace mantel as a centerpiece.

First Class Long Gallery. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

That characteristic feature of British liners of the era… the Long Gallery… was partially introduced by Empress of Japan, linking the Palm Court/Ball Room forward with the Smoking Room along the port side and opening up along the starboard side to the immense Main Entrance to form a uniquely spacious open plan "T" shaped area. The Long Galley was furnished as sitting areas along the sides, with an expanse of windows facing out onto the covered promenade, and was simply panelled in ash and walnut.

First Class Entrance Hall. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class Entrance Hall Shop. Credit: British Columbia Archives.

First Class Main Stairway. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

A centerpiece in every sense of the word was the Main Entrance Hall, one of the most impressive shipboard spaces of any liner of the era. The vast floor area was magnified by the two-deck high ceiling with its strikingly modern rectangular lights. An unusually large shop, with colonnades, was on the forward end, and aft was the superbly crafted Main Staircase, panelled in natural ash and walnut and featuring massive carved balustrades. Adding a metropolitan hotel flavour were the telephone boxes and the revolving doors (a feature introduced in the Duchesses) accessing the covered promenade whilst a pair of lifts were situated on the sides.

First Class Lounge. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Lounge was the most traditionally decorated of the First Class public rooms, rendered in "Empire Style." Sedate and elegant and flooded with natural light from a large oval domed ceiling and double height windows and luxuriously carpeted with rugs over a hardwood floor and with blue brocade-covered furnishings, it featured a large stage and orchestra platform and grand piano and on the other side, a marble fireplace. It was fitted with a cinema projector room at the fore end of the dome overhead so that films could be projected from these on to a screen at the back of the orchestra platform. Here, the panelling was pale mountain ash and walnut.

First Class Smoking Room. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class Smoking Room Bar. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Smoking Room, striking the right balance between moderne and traditional, was suitably "woodsy" with a beautiful inlaid teak floor with walnut skirting and main panelling of light grained mahogany, studded with bronze nails to give a trellis effect. The focal point was a monumental fireplace in carved Roman stone with a cut-glass overmantel whilst the centre of the room featured an impressive hexagonal frosted glass skylight. There was a wonderful open American Bar on one side, set in a dramatic circular alcove.

First Class Verandah Cafe. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The last of a remarkable succession of public rooms was the Verandah Cafe, open up aft of the Smoking Room and lined with stone effect panelling, jardinaires crowning the large windows and, of course, wicker furnishings.

First Class Dining Room. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class Private Dining Room. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

One of the showpieces of the ship was the First Class Dining Room on "C" Deck, seating 274 or, with the two adjoining private dining rooms, added, a total of 294 diners. Typical of the period, it was preceded by the spacious Foyer, decorated along the lines of Louis XIV with marble columns and bronze decorations, and leading off from the main staircase with its carved balustrades and illuminated alabaster ornamentation. Teak framed glass doors opened into the Dining Room which was impressively lined in a striking grey-green-blue veined Cipollino marble relieved by gilded bronze enrichments. The entire centre section was two decks high with a gallery along the port and starboard sides and a musicians balcony with an elaborate gilded bronze railing and decorations whilst on the opposite side was an large engraved mirror panel. The oversized portholes had sliding window screens and carved teak shutters. The chairs were impressively made of carved mahogany. Adding a moderne touch was the embellished ceiling set off by three parallel rows of strip lighting along each side.

First Class swimming pool. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The swimming pool (30 ft. by 20 ft. and with a depth of 7½ ft.) on "D" Deck was directly linked to the gymnasium on Boat Deck, five decks above, and was rendered in green and black marble and "fitted out on generous line with a refreshment pavilion, a spectators' balcony, dressing boxes, an electric bath-- even with such luxuries as under-water light effects."

Sitting Room of De Luxe Suites. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Bed Room of De Luxe Suite. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Bed Room of Peacock Suite. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Verandah of de luxe suite. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Sitting Room of Peacock Suite. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Verandah of De Luxe Suite. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Bedroom of Special Suite. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class stateroom. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class cabin bathroom. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Typical First Class cabins, a two bedded one with connecting private bath between the adjancent cabin (left) and a interconnecting cabin to a suite (right). Note the bare overhead! Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

First Class two-bed cabin. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The passenger accommodation has been planned on the most modern lines, the first-class stateroom accommodation being based on that of the Empress of Australia a minimum, and the second and third-class based on the cabin and third-class stateroom accommodation of the new Duchess steamers.

Canadian Pacific brochure.

First Class had 268 berths in all lower bedstead cabins which could be increased by 30 portable upper berths in some cabins, there being no permanent upper berths. An additional 44 berths in Second (Tourist) Class on "B" Deck were interchangeable with First to bring the total up to 342 and with 38 other interchangeble cabins on "C", a maximum of 380. Of the 268 permanent First Class berths, they comprised two de luxe suites, 12 special twin-bedded cabins with private bath, 28 single-bedded cabins and 106 twin-bedded cabins of which two had private bath, 18 which shared a bathroom between two cabins, two with private shower and toilet and 24 sharing a toilet and shower between two cabins. The average area per passenger was 80 sq. ft. compared to 68 sq. ft. in Empress of Australia and 40 sq ft. in Empress of Canada or twice as much on the new Pacific flagship as her immediate predecessor.

A representative section of First Class cabins, special (no. 157) and de luxe suite (139-141-137) on one side of "A" Deck amidships showing the almost limitless combination of connecting accommodation facilitated by doors between rooms as well as the adjoining servant's cabin (no. 135). The de luxe suite had a verandah (no. 141) with large seaview windows.

In addition to the 26 cabins on Boat Deck, there were the two de luxe suites, 12 special staterooms and 61 cabins on "A" (Bridge) Deck and a further 43 cabins (and 22 interchangeable Second Class ones) on "B" (Shelter) Deck.

All First Class staterooms had a dressing table, triple folding mirrors, pedestal wash basin with hot and cold running water with one basin per one bedded cabin and two for twin bedded ones. All Bibby two-bedstead had five-foot passage to the ship's side with a settee and table at outboard end. All cabins were outside with porthole on the ship's side or Bibby except eight inside but had side from the deckhouse coming above. Almost all cabins had interconnecting doors. The de luxe suites were comparable with best verandah suites on Empress of Australia, each having a bedroom, sitting room, verandah, bathroom with bath, washbasin and bidet, and separate toilet, with a hall and a box room. There was single room adjoining each for use as a maid's room. The sitting room and bedroom could each be let as separate rooms with the verandah and bath and toilet, only with the bath and toilet. The special staterooms each had two large beds and a bathroom fitted with bath, toilet, washbasin and bidet. All cabins had steam heating and forced-draught ball louvre ventilation.

Six of the special staterooms were panelled in walnut with satinwood enrichments and six in Quebec birch and bean. In the suites, the bedrooms were finished in olive wood with furnishings in creamy purple damask whilst the sitting rooms were done in pearl grey and the verandas, with their large seaview windows, featured tiled flower boxes.

The Second Class (which was redesignated Tourist Class by 1931), with berths for 164, reflected the rather small market for this accommodation on the Pacific route, although it was more in demand on the Honolulu segment. Even so, it was of very high quality, comparable in many respects to cabin class on the Duchesses although the public spaces much smaller.

Second (Tourist) Class Smoking Room. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Smoking Room and adjoining bar, covered promenade and entrance/main staircase was right aft on Promenade Deck. The room was exceptionally well decorated and fitted out in classic "club" tradition with Austrian oak panelling, a fine fireplace and a Tudor style skylight over the centre. Substantial armchairs in a vertical brocaded fabric complete a most attractive room.

Second (Tourist) Class Lounge. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Lounge, directly below the Smoking Room, was aft on "A" (Bridge) Deck with the shop and covered promenade adjoining. This was panelled in cedar with gold inlays and featured a fireplace.

Second (Tourist) Class Dining Room. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Separated by the galley from that for First Class, the Second Class Dining Room, seating 128, was aft on "D" (Upper) Deck and panelled in Sycamore and oak with a very moderne flavour and tables for two, four and six.

Second (Tourist) Class two-berth cabin. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Second (Tourist) Class cabins (164 berths) were aft on "B" (Shelter) Deck (22 cabins) and "C" (Upper) Deck (24 cabins) mostly on the Bibby pattern with two and four-berths, the uppers being portable, and similar to those fitted in the Duchess class ships. By adding interchangeable Third Class cabins (86 berths) the total capacity could be raised to 250. Conversely, all Second Class cabins could be interchanged with First Class on a half capacity basis so that a two-berth would be let as a First Class single without the upper. All two-berth cabins had one large wardrobe between them and four-berth had two, full length mirror and washbasins with hot and cold running water, two being provided in four-berth rooms. Chest of drawers were also fitted. The ventilation and heating was the same as for First Class rooms. The average area per passenger worked out to 30.5 sq. ft. vs. 24 sq. ft. in Empress of Canada and 22.5 ft. in Empress of Australia.

Third Class, with 100 berths, was originally a separate class but later merged with Steerage as Third Class (enclosed) and Third Class (dormitory). It was situated right aft on "B" (Shelter) Deck with a lounge and smoking room on either side of the entrance with 2-, 4- and 6-berth cabins right aft on "D" (Main Deck).

Third Class Lounge.

Third Class Smoking Room. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia (via Carol F. Lee)

The Third Class Lounge was attractively decorated and furnished to a high standard with side banquet seating, card tables and armchairs and a piano was provided. The panelling was figured oak with screens to the sidelights. The Smoking Room, similar in size and on the other side of the entrance and staircase, was lined in sycamore and the entrance in light oak.

Third Class Dining Room.

Separated from that of Second Class by a block of Second Class cabins, the Third Class Dining Room was right aft on "C" (Upper) Deck and sat 52 at tables for two, four and six. Like the other public rooms, this very well fitted out with armchairs, decorative mirrors, large sidelights and panelled in sycamore and oak.

Third Class covered promenade space was aft on "B" (Shelter) Deck extending to the stern.

Third Class four-berth cabin.

The Third Class for 100 had 11 two-berth, 8 four-berth and eight six-berth cabins with one washbasin and wardrobe in the two-berths, two wardrobes and one basis in the four berth ones. The six-berth cabins had three wardrobes and two washbasins. The fittings etc. were along the lines of similar accommodation in the Duchesses. The average area per passenger was 19.5 sq. ft. vs. 16 sq. ft. on Empress of Australia.

Asiatic Steerage dining space. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia (via Carol F. Lee)

The Asiatic Steerage, for 548, was in open berth dormitories forward, partially in permanent accommodation and in partially in portable space with smaller individual compartments than previous ships. Right forward on "D" (Main) Deck were four dormitories with 52, 48, 28 and 50 berths respectively and again right forward on "E" (Lower) Deck were two 68- and 46-berth compartments.

Asiatic Steerage open dormitory. Credit: Australian War Memorial.

Asiatic Steerage open dormintory. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia (via Carol F. Lee)

The dining space was on after end of "D" Deck, with separate galley and accessed through the working alleyway. Third Class "airing space" was situated forward on "B" (Shelter) Deck.

The officers and crew of Empress of Japan numbered 586 with 103 (deck), 7 (pursers), 123 (engineers) and 353 (catering). Most of the crew was Chinese with some 56 seamen and in the terminology of the era, 2 deck boys, 22 bell boys, 16 bathroom boys, 28 bedroom boys, 58 saloon boys, 32 steerage boys etc. The 10-strong orchestra was Filipino.

Credit: The Province, 6 July 1930.

So it was with this splendid ship, that Canadian Pacific would write what would prove the last chapter of The Pacific Empresses and dispatch R.M.S. Empress of Japan on the first of 58 voyages, beginning her nine-year reign as the greatest of all passenger liners on Pacific.

Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The Empress of Japan opens a new era in Pacific shipping, she brings Japan within 19 days of London, close to the time of the Trans-Siberian route, and very different in every respect concerning passenger comfort. With the three other ships on the service. The Empress of Canada, The Empress of Asia and The Empress of Russia, a fortnightly service in first-class liners will open from August 7th over the North Pacific in place of the three weekly service of the past.

Liverpool Journal of Commerce, 4 July 1930.

Spanning two summers, it was truly a halcyon era for The Canadian Pacific. What had begun a half century earlier by binding together the Dominion from coast to coast by ribands of steel, then expanding its bounds to create a new ocean highway, an "All Red Route" of imperial commerce and with it, the greatest transportation system in the world, had now reached its pinnacle. With their introduction of R.M.S. Empress of Japan in July 1930 and R.M.S. Empress of Britain in May 1931, the Canadian Pacific nailed the red and white chequerboard houseflag to the proudest mastheads on the two great oceans, at once the largest, the finest and the fastest passenger ships ever to serve on their respective routes.

Of Empress of Japan's 36 years, she had but nine on the route for which she was designed and built, but what a time it was-- a heyday for a ship, a line and for ocean travel. Fifty-eight times, Empress of Japan steamed passed Brockton point and through Lion's Gate, pointing her bows south towards Hawaii and then westwards to the Orient. In summer 1930, a new White Empress, and the last of her dynasty, was about to start her reign as Queen of the Pacific.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan sails from Liverpool on her maiden voyage to Quebec, 14 June 1930. Credit: Trove.

1930

With President E.W. Beatty among those aboard, Empress of Japan sailed from Liverpool on 14 June 1930 for Canada, becoming the largest liner yet to depart the Mersey for Quebec. Prior to departure, he told the press that C.P.R. had no immediate plans for additional tonnage with Empress of Japan and Empress of Britain capping a truly remarkable newbuilding programme. As events proved, it be another quarter of century before C.P.R. commissioned another major liner, Empress of Britain (III). No finer passenger liners would ever serve the Dominion and no two ships better fulfilled the aspirations of the executive and the empire builder to make the Canadian Pacific truly the greatest transportation system in the world.

When Empress of Japan sailed, she was under the temporary command of Capt. R.G. Latta for roundtrip, well versed in the trans-Atlantic route and ports, but Capt. Robinson was also aboard to familiarise himself with his future command. On this, she carried First and Tourist Third Cabin class only with only 52 in the former and 50 in the later on what must have been a sublime voyage experience with so few so aboard on a glittering, brand new ship.

The company announced that a gala welcome for the new liner at Quebec would include the Governor-General and Lady Wellington attending a ball aboard and the ship's orchestra broadcasting a concert over Canadian radio stations. During the crossing, newsreels showing the launch of Empress of Britain by the Prince of Wales were shown. Interviewed by journalists on the final leg from Father Point to Quebec, E.W. Beatty was asked if Empress of Japan was out for a record on her first voyage, "We are not for a record. It is advisable to attempt a record on a first voyage. A ship, like an automobile must be worked gradually. "

With the landmark Chateau Frontenac in the background, Empress of Japan alongside at Quebec. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Glimmering in Canadian summer sunshine, the graceful white hull and fine lines of the new Canadian Pacific liner Empress of Japan were the cynosure of all eyes at Quebec today when the ship was visited by some three hundred steamship agents and newspapermen from all parts of eastern and central Canada and the United States.

Flag-decked in honor of the occasion, the latest addition to the huge family of White Empresses, provoke many a gasp of surprise from her visitors. Here, embodied in the last word of modern ocean travel, space and beauty vied with one another for supremacy; modern engineering perfection in lighting and ventilation, to nothing of half a hundred classic points of interest of travellers' comfort, prompted expressions of appreciation even from the most sophisticated transportation men. A show ship was on show; the last word of her kind, a fresh challenge for speed and comfort across the great Pacific, from the great Dominion to the land of cherry-blossoms from which she gleans her august name, and beyond, to the Chinese ports."

The Gazette, 23 June 1930

A gathering of Empresses... Empress of France (left) arrives at Quebec on 21 June 1930 to join Empress of Japan (and Duchess of Richmond and Montclare) in the port. Credit: Victoria Daily Times, 12 July 1930.

On 20 June 1930, Empress of Japan arrived at Quebec at 1:30 p.m., the largest vessel yet to dock at the Ancient Capital. Indicative of what was the augury of a true Golden Age for Canadian Pacific, the glistening new Empress of Japan was joined on the 21st by Empress of France, Duchess of Richmond and Montclare, some 80,000 tons of liners flying the red and white chequerboard houseflag.

The Imperial Order of the Daughters of the Empire sponsored a Gala Day aboard the new liner on 21 June 1930 with the honoured guests being The Governor-General and Lady Willingdon. This included an afternoon tea, fashion show, a presentation of French Canadian folk songs, dinner in the First Class dining saloon followed by dancing in the ballroom. On 22nd, C.P.R. organised an elaborate tour and luncheon aboard Empress of Japan for some 300 travel agents, many of whom sailed down the St. Lawrence from Montreal in Minnedosa, en route to Britain as well by special C.P.R. trains from other points in the Dominion and the United States. That evening, the orchestra of an Atlantic liner was heard playing live on the Pacific Coast for first time when Empress of Japan's orchestra, introduced by Capt. R.G. Latta, played a programme under the direction of Alfred Reiss, that was transmitted to 12 stations throughout the Dominion. On the 23rd, the ship was shown off by Capt. Samuel Robinson to a group of prominent Chinese businessmen from Toronto, Ottawa and Montreal.

"After receiving one of the most outstanding welcomes ever accorded a new passenger liner in this country, or elsewhere," (Gazette, 24 June 1930) Empress of Japan departed Quebec at 4:30 p.m. on 24 June 1931 for Cherbourg and Southampton with 199 First and 197 Tourist Third Cabin passengers. After calling at Cherbourg at 2:00 p.m. on 1 July, Empress of Japan arrived at Southampton at 7:00 p.m. Her size and appearance impressed even in this port of great liners and the 3rd she was opened for inspection alongside Southampton by invited guests of C.P.R.

There was a large and representative gathering at Southampton on July 3, on the invitation of the C.P.R. Company to view the luxurious liner Empress of Japan, 26,000 tons, which was recently completed for the company's well favoured trans-Pacific run between Hong Kong and Vancouver. The new Empress has already proved her seaworthiness by a maiden voyage to Quebec and back, and is now being made ready at Southampton for a voyage to the Far East via Suez, preparatory to commencing at Hong Kong the routine of regular service for which she is specially intended. She leaves on July 12, and lucky indeed a re those who will travel on her, for not only is she one of the handsomest ships externally, and able to cross the seas with the best, but internally she represents the very last word in luxury and in comfort. Including 400 first class, she has accommodation for 1,200 passengers ' and her engines give her a comfortable average speed of 21 knots, with more in hand when required. With the new Empress in service and the company's 42,000 tonner, which is being built for the Atlantic it is expected to reduce the.duration of the voyage from Hong Kong to London to seventeen days, a time which will beat the present fastest route of travel, via the Siberian railway. Until the new Atlantic greyhound is in operation the voyage via C.P.R. will be one of nineteen days.

Mr. H. G. Dring, European passenger manager of the C.P.R., in London, received the Company's guests, numbering some three hundred, and with the help of other officials made certain that they saw as much as was possible of the ship's wonderful equipment in the all too limited time allotted for the purpose. after lunch, amid the most sumptuous surroundings in the dining saloon, Mr. Dring, in the unavoidable absence of Sir George McLaren Brown, Mr. Allison of Messrs. Escombe, McGrath & Co., on behalf of the guests, the representative of The Times made speeches. Mr. Dring, welcoming the guests, spoke of the new vessel as being a superlative ship in three senses—she would be the biggest, the fastest and the most luxurious ship on the trans-Pacific service. Compared with her beautiful namesake, broken up in 1926 after a long and honourable career in peace and an war, the new Empress of Japan is over four times as large (26,000 tons, against 6,000 tons), and 4,500 tons larger than the Empress of Canada, at present the largest C.P.R. ship on the Pacific run. Mr. Dring paid handsome tribute to the builders, one of whose directors was present, the designers and the decorators, and his sentiments were most cordially endorsed by the speakers who followed him, and by all present.

London and China Express, 10 July 1930

There must always be a certain feeling of regret when one of the finest products of British industry passes out of our sight as soon as it comes from the hands of its creators. This is what is happening to the new Canadian Pacific liner Empress of Japan, built at the Fairfield Works, and is now, after a trial trip to Canada and back, lying in Southampton docks preparing to sail for Hong Kong on her way to Vancouver and to spend the rest of her life going backwards and forward across the Pacific. This new Empress, a huge, white painted ship of unusually graceful lines, is one of the monsters of the sea. But her chief features are her spaciousness and the beauty of her decoration. If the Empress of Japan is as fortunate as she is beautiful, she should have a very happy career.

Birmingham Daily Gazette, 4 July 1930

VOYAGE WITH NO PASSENGERS LINER'S MAIDEN TRIP EMPTY. One of the most luxurious liners in the world is now on her maiden voyage to the Orient—empty. She has a concert, hall and cinema, a ballroom and palm courts. a gymnasium and marble swimming bath, music in every public room and many sumptuously appointed suites. Yet for her 9,000-mile voyage to Hong Kong she does not carry a solitary passenger to enjoy these luxuries. is the new 26,000-tons Canadian- Pacific liner, Empress of Japan, going out East to take up her duties on the Vancouver-Hong Hong lines, where she will be fastest and most beautiful ship in regular traffic. And, being a perfect lady, she is not trespassing lines' passengers, by the way, accounts for her "empty" maiden voyage.

Belfast Telegraph, 7 July 1930

Canadian Pacific decided to "dead-head" Empress of Japan straight to Hong Kong, via Suez, with no passengers, to expedite her entrance into her intended service rather than plan an elaborate and extensive cruise en route. She sailed from Southampton on 12 July 1930, and making good time, passed through the Straits of Gibraltar at 9:20 p.m. on the 14th. Empress of Japan arrived at Hong Kong, ahead of schedule, at 9:00 p.m. on 1 August and, "took up her moorings in mid harbour, and this morning she has been the object of general admiration, her large bulk and fine lines attracting great attention." (Hong Kong Telegraph, 2 August 1930). It was added that "during her stay in port, there will be several functions on the mammoth liner, when opportunities will be given those invited to see over the magnificent ship."

R.M.S. Empress of Japan alongside at Hong Kong (Kowloon) in August 1930. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

The most important of these was a dinner and reception aboard on 7 August 1930 attended by the Governor-General Sir William Peel and some 300 of the colony's military, government and business leaders. In his speech, Sir William said: "I congratulate Canadian Pacific on having built such a magnificent ship and on sending her out to these waters. She is entirely in accord with the tradition of that great company which we all recognise as on of the big assets of the British Empire...Kipling has written of the liner 'she's a lady by the paint on her face' Canadian Pacific has raised their liners to the status of Empresses and I am sure you will all agree that they are entirely justified as their liners are truly regal." Capt. Robinson spoke of the ship's fast progress out from Southampton: "Two days after we left Southampton we at Gibraltar. Two more days and we were at Malta an another two days saw us at Port Said. We were one day coming through the Canal and two and a half days after that we were at Perim and seven days after we reached Singapore. We arrived here from Singapore in three days." In all, Empress of Japan had taken just 19 days to steam from Southampton to Hong Kong.

Empress of Japan at Hong Kong. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

During her maiden call at Shanghai, Empress of Japan docked up river at Woosung on 9 August 1930. The following day, the ship was open to inspection by local residents who travelled up from the city by five special tenders departing at 2:00 p.m., "all expressed themselves as delighted with the ship and with facilities extended by the ship's personnel during their tour of inspection." (North China Herald, 12 August 1930. That evening a banquet was held aboard, attended by the British Consul-General J.F. Brennan. "After gazing up at the brilliantly-lit white walls of the palace to which they were invited, they entered what appeared to be-- and was-- a magnificent banqueting hall of shimmering mirros, marble and parquetry. And they dined, they heard music and words of wisdom and they took the aforesaid water-cab back to the Bund and the after midnight liveliness of Shanghai." (North China Herald).

On 7 August 1930, Empress of Canada left Vancouver and Victoria for Honolulu and the Orient now no longer the flagship of the Pacific Empress Fleet, the same day Empress of Japan left Hong Kong on her maiden eastbound crossing. The new flagship departed Yokohama at 6:00 p.m. on the 14th amid all expectation she would smash the present record held by Empress of Canada, which would require Empress of Japan to reach Victoria by 11:55 a.m., PST, on the 22nd. Empress of Canada's record, attained in June 1923, was 8 days 10 hours 35 mins., averaging 20.6 knots for the 1,179-nautical mile passage from Yokohama to Victoria.

As the Victoria Daily Times observed, "Just as the appearance of the new German speed queens, the Europa and the Bremen, revived sporting interest in transatlantic shipping, a new era of competition in swiftness, luxury and service has been opened on the Pacific route by the launching of many new liners. On the Pacific it is a three-cornered competition with the new Canadian and Japanese boats temporarily crowding out of the limelight because the United States programme to meet this rivalry will not begin to produce new ships until next year."

Empress of Japan at Victoria. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Empress of Japan and Princess Joan at Victoria's Rithet docks on the former's maiden arrival. Both were 1930 products of Fairfields, both had three funnels but the similarities in scale are lacking. Credit: Victoria Daily Times, 26 August 1930.

Empress of Japan arrived at Victoria on 22 August 1930 and did not disappoint, racing from Yokohama breakwater to Race Rocks in 8 days 6 hours and 27 mins, averaging 21.04 knots and clipping 4 hours 26 mins off Empress of Canada's record. She was instantly and definitively largest, finest and fastest liner on the Pacific. In low lying morning mist, Empress of Japan rounded Race Rocks at dawn, off William Head Quarantine Station at 8:30 a.m., and alongside the Rithet piers at 9:30 a.m.

As soon as had passed quarantine inspection and taken aboard her pilot and newspapermen she lifted her anchors and steamed towards Victoria, a magnificent picture in the sun which was just breaking through the mist. Hundreds of cars were parked along the Dallas Road and people crowded every vantage point on the breakwater, the rocks, docks and wharves approaching the Rithet piers. As the Empress reached a point off Albert Head a gaily colored airline came out from the city and circled the ship. She was shortly afterwards joined by another plans and in formation they flew around the great white liner, the passenger aboard crowding the deck rails, thrilled at the unexpected welcome to port.

The pier where the Empress of Japan berthed was black with people and the shed was gay with flag of all nations. After customs and immigration officials had completed their inspection the Japan was thrown open to the public and thousands of Victorians pored over the ship marvelling at her beauty and luxury.

The Victoria Daily Times, 22 August 1930

Capt. Robinson reported said it was an uneventful voyage but with "plenty of fog all the way" which necessitated slowing down as she approached the west coast of Vancouver Island so she could have done even better. Arriving off William Head Quarantine Station at 10:00 a.m., Empress of Japan was alongside the Rithet piers by 11:00 a.m. As soon as she docked, Victoria's Major Anscomb and members of the City Council boarded to pay their compliments to Capt. Robinson and tour the liner. She had 3,000 tons of cargo and 530 passengers, 114 First Class, 59 Second, 34 Third and 323 in Steerage, most landed at Victoria, including many connecting for Seattle on the C.P.R. steamer. Among those aboard was the Archbishop of Manila, Rev. A.M.J. O'Doherty and Allan Cameron, C.P.R.'s Orient Manager. According to the Victoria Daily Times, "the passengers who made the maiden voyage across the Pacific on the Empress of Japan reported a delightful trip. The ship was everything that had been said about her, the passengers reported, and they were sorry to leave." By midday, she had cast off for the final run to Vancouver where an even greater welcome by over 20,000 spectators awaited her upon her arrival five hours later.

Empress of Japan coming into Vancouver for the first time. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

What was called the "most magnificent reception ever given by Vancouver to any other ship," including H.M.S. Hood, was afforded Empress of Japan with a crowd of some 20,000 from the shores from Prospect Point to Pier A as well as a flotilla of launches and yachts. More than a few on hand had also witnessed the arrival of the first Empress of Japan in 1891. So thick was the fog in the Gulf that she was delayed for about half an hour when the sound of seaplane circling over Point Atkinson prevented Capt. Robinson and his officers from hearing the fog horn from the Point and the liner was stopped until the plane passed over. As she passed Stanley Park, Empress of Japan dipped her Red Ensign in honour of the previous Empress of Japan's whose dragon figurehead was prominently mounted on the shoreline. Dense crowds packed the city pier heads from Pier D to Pier H and Burrard Street to the Marine Building was thronged with spectators.

The new Empress of Japan passes the figurehead of the old Empress of Japan at Stanley Park. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Much praise was given her veteran Chief Engineer, J. Lamb, who had begun his C.P.R. career in 1899 aboard Empress of China. Although satisfied with the new ship's record, he said he expected the ship could, once the machinery was run in, make the run in less than eight days.

Crowds at Brockton Point watch as Empress of Japan comes into Vancouver for the first time; it was the biggest turn-out in the city's history for a single event to date. Credit: The Province, 23 August 1930.

Credit: Vancouver News-Herald

R.M.S. Empress of Japan, largest and fastest ship on the Pacific Ocean, triumphantly entered the Port of Vancouver at 5 p.m. Friday [22 August 1930].

Beams of sunlight filtering through a silver haze converged on the vessel to mark her out for thousands lining the driveways of Stanley Park.

Automobile horns blasted, ships' whistles roared, sirens screamed, and the dense throngs cheered as the huge white hull rode gracefully in through the First Narrows.

The crowd that packed roads, sidewalks, wharves, windows and roofs was estimated to the largest ever here to witness a spectacle of any kind.

Shipping men saw in the gather the presence of a deep undercurrent of maritime consciousness in civic life, the strength of which had never before been realized…

The Empress of Japan was joined off Point Atkinson by a fleet of power boats, speed boats and yachts, which conveyed her into the harbor. The Harbour Commissioners' yacht Fisps, bearing prominent shipping men and business leaders of the city, was the first local craft to sight the marine giantess.

A blast from her whistle quickly brought scores of smaller boats to the vicinity.

With all flags flying, the Empress continued her majestic course, the smaller craft falling in alongside.

Cheer after cheer went up from the crowd clustered thickly at Prospect Point to obtain the first glimpse of the new Canadian Pacific liner.

From the halliards of the signal station there fluttered in flags the international code message, 'ZBH,' or 'Welcome.'

H.M.S. Dauntless, swinging at anchor in stream, flashed the same message.

The din rose in waves around the visitor.

The demonstration reached its height just as Captain Samuel Robinson, R.N.R., C.B.E., grizzled commodore of the transpacific fleet, swung his vessel for the landing at C.P.R. Pier 'B.'

As if by prearranged signal, all ships in the harbor simultaneously added the full power of their sirens and whistles to the welcome.

White plumes of steam ascended from every exhaust. The uproar came to a climax as the first of the Japan's lines touched the pier.

With a first few waves and whistles, the crowd started to disperse as the ship made fast. Burrard Street and the waterfront ramp gradually emptied themselves. From the piers and nearby buildings citizens poured, homeward-bound.

Vancouver had welcomes the largest ship that ever berthed here.

The city had seen the most modern and luxurious passenger liner on the Pacific.

The Vancouver Sun, 23 August 1930.

Looking immaculate, Empress of Japan alongside Vancouver for the first time. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Two noble lords of Fleet Street propound a doctrine bannered EMPIRE FREE TRADE. Did ye who scoff at their teaching hear the echo of their voices as the white hull of the Empress of Japan rode through the Lions' Gate?

Her hull was laid in Great Britain. Scotsmen, whose heads ring with the poetry of Robert Burns and the music of machines, designed her turbines. English marine architects, the descendents of King Alfred, gave her beauty of line.

There will be Canadian produce in her holds as she travels out to Cathay. And she will bring the silk of Nippon back to the Port of Vancouver.

The strength of this water-spaced domain we call the Empire exists in its variety of human species, of climates and products; just as our country's power is in the blending of two racial strains.

We should have more effort in the spirit which finds expression in the making such an Empire symbol as the Canadian Pacific liner Empress of Japan.

The Vancouver Sun, 23 August 1930

R.M.S. Empress of Japan at Vancouver for the first time. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

During her maiden Vancouver layover, Empress of Japan hosted many receptions and tours, including one on 27 August 1930 for 300 Chinese travel agents and officials from the Canadian and U.S. Pacific Coasts. The next day a similar luncheon and inspection was attended by 200 Japanese businessmen. She was opened to public inspection over the weekend of the 30-31st for an admission fee of 25 cents in aid of Seamen's Charities and was thronged by some 12,000 over the two days.

The new Empress figured in Vancouver's society pages throughout her maiden call at the port with a myriad of receptions, functions and inspections for business, travel and government officials as well as tours for the general public.

With brightly colored streamers stretched from the wharf to her deck and with a band playing an exhilarating tune, the Empress of Japan, white queen of the Pacific, slipped from the C.P.R. wharf at 11 o'clock Thursday morning and steamed through the Lions Gate heading for the Hawaiian Islands en route to the Far East. Crowds of Vancouver's residents crowded on the pier to watch this giant ship pull out for the first time on her regular run, and from the crowd which lined her decks, it was evident that her passenger list was a full one.

The Daily Province, 5 September 1930

Empress of Japan sails from Vancouver on her maiden westbound crossing, 4 September 1930. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Getting down to work as a trans-Pacific express liner, Empress of Japan sailed at 11:15 a.m. on 4 September 1930 from Vancouver on her maiden westbound crossing with 245 First, 132 Second, 56 Third and 380 Steerage passengers.

Empress of Japan sails from Vancouver, 4 September 1930. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

This would be, of course, her first crossing to Honolulu (served on most westbound crossings since the beginning of 1930) and she immediately broke the record on this, too, doing Race Rocks to Honolulu in 4 days 15 hours 50 mins at an average of 21.08 knots and coming into Honolulu at 8:30 a.m. on 9 September 1930. She arrived at 8:22 a.m. at Honolulu amid great acclaim and effusive press coverage. "The Empress of Japan represents the last word, a new glorification to travel between the Occident and Orient. Exteriorly the liner is a creation of flashing beauty." (Honolulu Advertiser, 9 September 1930). Capt. Robinson told reporters, "We were making our customary speed, the same average that broke the record from Yokohama to Victoria in slightly more than eight days, several weeks ago. The ship has tremendous reserve power and has she been out to establish a record could have set out a mark not likely to be bettered for many years." More than 2,700 visitors came aboard during a brief two-hour public inspection to benefit local seaman charities.

Maiden arrival at Honolulu... from 1930-39, Empress of Japan was the largest regular caller at the port. Credit: Rick Horne Collection via Flickr.

The Japan was greeted royally upon her arrival. Aloha tower shrieked her siren while craft in the harbor gave forth throaty blasts of welcome as the big white liner edged into Pier 11.

She was greeted off port by a committee from the chamber of commerce who decorated the passengers with leis and also the ship's officers. A group of girls from the Royal Hawaiian glee club also off port to serenade the passengers.

Pier 2 was jammed with automobiles which honked their welcome as the liner passed through the harbor entrance. As she neared Pier 10 the Royal Hawaiian Band struck up the familiar notes of Aloha Oe and the crowds on the upper tiers applauded and shouted their welcome. It was a welcome reception for the new queen of the Pacific.

Honolulu Advertiser, 10 September 1930

Empress of Japan landed 42 passengers there before setting off at 9:00 a.m. on 11 September 1930 on the long westward passage to Japan. By the time she swept into Yokohama on the 18th,she had broken the record on that leg, too, doing it in 6 days 19 hours 43 mins from departure from Honolulu, clipping almost 24 hours from Chichibu Maru's previous record. Her time from Victoria to Yokohama was 11 days 8 hours 33 mins. She reached Shanghai on the 21st and Hong Kong on the 24th.

Canadian Pacific announced on 10 September 1930 that after the first of the year, both Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada would regularly call at Honolulu in both directions instead of just westbound. "The Canadian Pacific is thoroughly satisfied with the showing made on the westbound call at Honolulu from Vancouver and Victoria and how that they have four big Empress liners in service they intend to have two of them call here regularly on the eastbound sailings as well the westbound," Harry Dawson, manager of Theo. H. Davies & Co., the C.P.R. agents in Honolulu told the Honolulu Advertiser. This was, however, dependent on getting approval from the all-important Japanese silk exporters.

Empress of Japan left Yokohama on 9 October 1930 for Victoria and Vancouver. Hopes she might improve on her record were frustrated by stiff headwinds off the west coast of Victoria island and she did not berth until 4:00 p.m. on the 17th. Aboard were 487 passengers with 60 First, 40 Second, 34 Third and 353 steerage with a number transferring directly to Princess Marguerite for Seattle. Among her cargo was 450 measured tons of raw silk for Vancouver which would go east by special train and 900 tons of overland freight. She docked at Vancouver at 8:25 p.m.

Majestic setting for a magnificent ship: Empress of Japan coming into Vancouver. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

There was no Depression evident on C.P.R.'s trans-Pacific run and when Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver and Victoria for Honolulu and the Orient on 30 October 1930, she had nearly 1,000 passengers with 240 First, 78 Second, 80 Third and 600 in steerage. Among her First Class passengers was Tsuruko Aoki, Japanese film actress and wife of actor Sessue Hayakawa. On the return trip, Empress of Japan embarked the returning trade delegation of the Canadian Chamber of Commerce at Hong Kong on 27 November following their tour of Tokyo, Nikko, Nagoya and Kobe in Japan and Shanghai and Canton in China. Embarking at Yokohama was British aviatrix Mrs. Victor Bruce, who had recently become the first woman to fly from England to Tokyo. Her aircraft, a Blackburn "Bluebird," was also embarked for the passage to Vancouver. Once again, stormy weather and strong winds delayed the ship's arrival and were so strong that she could not come into Victoria and proceeded to Vancouver where she docked on 6:00 p.m. on 12 December.

On 20 November 1930, C.P.R. formally announced that Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada would commence an eastbound call at Honolulu beginning in May 1931. This was followed on 4 December by the news that henceforth the Empresses would sail from the principal Pacific ports on Saturdays commencing with Empress of Russia from Vancouver on 6 December 1930 and also from Hong Kong and Yokohama with Empress of Japan now programmed to arrive at Vancouver on Sundays and her consorts on Mondays.

Cover of 1931 brochure. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

1931

Taking out 600 passengers including 89 for Honolulu (where she docked on Christmas Day), Empress of Japan left Vancouver on 20 December 1930. She was drydocked at Hong Kong (in no. 1 dock of the Hong Kong and Whampoa Dockyard) on arrival there on 15 January 1931. It was customary for C.P.R. to drydock their ships in Hong Kong and she became the largest vessel to date to do so in the Colony.

Two views of Empress of Japan drydocked at Hong Kong & Whampoa Dockyard no. 1 dock on 15 January 1931. She was the largest vessel yet to be drydocked it the Colony. Credit: Far East Review, June 1931 via Gwulo Old Hong Kong.com.

Undocked and alongside at Kowloon looking immaculate, Empress of Japan hosted a gala evening on 3 February 1931 "reminiscent of a scene at fashionable London hotel at the height of the season-- the whims of Dame Fashion revealed in the ladies' gowns, the sombre, although stately 'tails' of the menfolk, and the luxurious and beautiful background of the interior of the superb liner," (Hong Kong Telegraph, 4 February 1931) that was attended by Lady Peel, wife of the Governor-General, and most of the Colony's society. Empress of Japan sailed from Hong Kong on 5 February 1931 and left Yokohama on the 15th for Vancouver. Among those aboard was Capt. E. Aikman, General Superintendent of C.P. Steamships Co. who made the roundtrip to be present during the ship's first overhaul.

Credit: The Province, 19 February 1931.

Among those aboard was Capt. E. Aikman, General Superintendent of C.P. Steamships Co. who made the roundtrip to be present during the ship's first overhaul. With a clean hull and her engines now well run in, Chief Engineer Lamb opened her right up and Empress of Japan dropped records like nine pins on the voyage. She started by doing Kobe to Yokohama in a record 15 hours 15 mins:

Magnificent in coat of white, R.M.S. Empress of Japan proud in her power and beauty, entered Yokohama harbour February 11, her splendid appearance set off and accentuated by the sacred mountain Fujiyama, also dressed from foot to peak in a shining new coat of snow.

The great ship was warmly, having established a new record from Kobe to Yokohama, making the run in 15 hours, 54 minutes, on a schedule nineteen-hours' run. So far as Japan is concerned, the Kobe-Yokohama run is considered the 'blue-ribbon' stretch for all Japan.

Then the ship came romping on across the Pacific and arrived at port February 20, gorgeously set out by green background of the forests of the North Shore mountain, topped by the snowy peaks of the higher back ranges. Her crossing was made at an average speed of 21.47 knots per hour.

The Province, 1 March 1931

Coming into Victoria on 20 February 1931, Empress of Japan had clipped 3 hours 15 mins from her own previous record, doing Yokohama-Race Rocks in 8 days 3 hours 12 mins, despite the winter crossing.

When the 26,000-ton ocean greyhound Empress of Japan poked her nose around Race Rocks at 2 o'clock this morning and Capt. Samuel Robinson, her master, signalled the engine room crew for 'slow down,' a new record for the transpacific crossing went into the logbook of the C.P.R. fleet. Exactly eight days, three hours and twelve minutes after the Empress of Japan was turned loose off the breakwater at Yokohama her skipper saw his great ship come abeam of the Race Rocks lighthouse. Three hours and fifteen minutes were shaved off the best previous time for the crossing, which also stood to the credit of the Japan, having been made on her maiden run from Yokohama.

Victoria Daily Times, 20 February 1931

Capt. Robinson told reporters he thought his ship capable of doing the eastbound passage in under eight days, but lamented that the new Honolulu call would "spoil chances for a shot at the record." The liner average nearly 22 knots for the crossing, reeling off 525 miles a day average for the 4,200-mile run.

Coming home with yet another new record, Empress of Japan approaching Vancouver, 20 February 1931. Credit: James Crookall photo, City of Vancouver Archives

Considerable interest was aroused when it was announced on 8 March 1931 that Vancouver would, for the first time in its history, welcome a reigning sovereign when King Prajadhipok and Queen Rambaibarni of Siam, and an entourage of 50 persons, would arrive aboard Empress of Japan on 17 April 1931. His Majesty was coming over for treatment for an eye infection and would travel onwards to New York by private train and return aboard Empress of Japan's 22 August westbound crossing. The Royal Party would occupy most of one side of A Deck on the ship, the total fare coming to some $25,000.

Departing Vancouver and Victoria on 28 February 1931, Empress of Japan had 375 passengers for the Orient and 94 for Honolulu where she docked on 5 March, and sailed the following morning. Among those aboard was composer Rudolph Friml and Sir Hugo Cunliffe-Owen, chairman of British-American Tobacco and en route on business to Shanghai.

If Empress of Japan had any rival for speed on the North Pacific, it came from her fleetmate and on 20 March 1931 Empress of Canada swept past Race Rocks after doing the passage from Yokohama in 8 days 7 hours 51 mins, clipping 3 hours off her previous best mark.

And better was yet to come. Credit: Rivers Gazette, 19 March 1931.

Empress of Japan sailed from Hong Kong on 4 April 1931 on one of her most celebrated and eventful voyages, one that summed up both the ship and her era. King Prajadhipok and Queen Rambai Barni embarked with their Royal Party and were received with tremendous welcomes during the ensuing two calls in Japan, being the first foreign sovereign to step foot on Japanese soil since Queen Liliuokalani of Hawaii in 1881. On the 6th the ship arrived at Kobe "amid a tremendous welcome. Guns boomed their official salute and a group of 100 Boy Scouts gave cheers of Banzais." (Nippon Jiji, 6 April 1931.) The following day, during the two-day call at Yokohama, the King and Queen were received and decorated by Emperor Hirohito. The Emperor also received Sir Arthur Currie, the great Canadian military leader of the Great War, who, with Lady Currie, were also sailing in Empress of Japan at the end of a four-month world tour. When the liner sailed at 3:00 p.m. on the 9th, thousands lined the docks shouting "Banzais" and the cruiser I.N.S. Isuzu fired a royal salute as she cleared the quay.

The King and Queen of Siam aboard Empress of Japan. Credit: Vancouver Sun.

If her passengers were not enough of an attraction, the ship herself distinguished herself during the voyage. It was widely anticipated that all speed would be put on during the crossing to accomplish it in less than 8 days. On 14 April 1931 it was reported she had thus far been averaging 22.3 knots. The next day it was radioed from the ship that the King "was suffering from an indisposition" and the official reception planned for his arrival at Victoria would have to be cancelled and instead he would entrain directly at Vancouver for New York. This, of course, was a huge disappointment not the least among the press with an enormous interest building in the visit and reckoned to be the most anticipated ship arrival since Empress of Australia docked in 1923 with refugees from the Tokyo earthquake.

Great excitement prevailed during the Pacific voyage as it became known that the Royal transport would attack her previous February record of 8 days 3 hours 27 minutes.

Each passengers clustered round the daily run bulletin, and bets were laid and taken on the final result. Hearty congratulations were paid to Captain 'Sammy' Robinson, R.N.R., C.B.E., Japan's commander, when it became known that she had beaten her own fastest crossing time, set up in February.

Happiest man aboard the ship is Chief Engineer James Lamb, the man whom they declare nurses his engines and loves them more than a mother her baby.

He had been on tip-toe during the seven days, anxiously watching results, and was justified in his belief that his engines could do the task set them.

Vancouver Sun, 17 April 1931.

Almost as much interest and anticipation centered on the prospect of Empress of Japan setting a new mark for the trans-Pacific passage. In this, she did not disappoint, passing Race Rocks on 16 April 1931 and docking at the Rithet Piers at shortly after 8:00 p.m., clocking a remarkable 7 days, 20 hours 16 mins. For the run or more than 7 hours faster than her previous time. It was first time in history that a crossing from Asia to North America had been completed in less than 8 days. Capt. Robinson reported a fair weather voyage all the way across with following winds most of the way, and was said to "more than proud of his ship." The Times Colonist quoted Chief Engineer James Lamb; "such a performance was a dream a few years so, but it has been done. A ship has crossed from Yokohama to Race Rocks in under eight days. " The paper added, "Mr. Lamb reported that the ship made an average speed of 22.27 knots, compared to the 21.5 knots averaged on her last record breaking voyage. The ship left Yokohama on the 9th at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, he said, and the longest daily run was 520 miles, the shortest being 462 miles. The engines performed beautifully all the way, and from Yokohama until Race Rocks was reached at 6.48 o'clock yesterday evening." Empress of Japan departed Victoria at 11:00 p.m. and she was alongside her Vancouver pier at 6:30 a.m. the following morning. She came in flying the white elephant flag of Siam at her truck in honour of her royal passengers.

With the King still confined to his suite, suffering from bronchitis borught about it was said attending a performance at a Tokyo theatre, Queen Rambai Barni and Prince Svasti received the official welcoming delegation in the Palm Court of the liner on arrival at Victoria. The King and Queen disembarked upon arrival at Vancouver and entrained on their special train alongside the pier directly for New York.

If the Royal Party dominated the headlines, the ship's passenger list was a full one, comprising 884 passengers with 200 First, 150 Second, 84 Third and 450 steerage.

Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver on 25 April 1931, her first departure on the new Saturday sailing day.

On 30 May 1931 Empress of Japan left Yokohama and not "direct for Victoria" anymore, for this would be the first eastbound crossing featuring the via Honolulu routing. Although a wise marketing move by C.P.R., it did mark the end of the classic "straight shot" Northern Pacific route from Yokohama, skirting the Aleutians and across to Race Rocks that had been the well-trod path of the Empress flyers since the beginning. Indeed, Capt. Robinson had confessed a bit of disappointment his ship would not be given another chance to improve on her existing record for the run.

However, Empress of Japan immediately broke the record on set a month previously by Empress of Canada, for the Yokohama to Honolulu route. Arriving at Honolulu at 5:00 a.m. on 5 June 1931, she clocked 6 days 9 hours 11 mins. at an average of 22.12 knots or about two hours shorter than her fleetmate. On this, her first eastbound call at the port, she landed 98 passengers and 400 tons of cargo and a large mail consignment. Among those landing were composer Rudolf Friml, on his second voyage in the ship (and transhipping to Malolo for the U.S. West Coast) , and, in transit and bound for Britain via the All Red Route, H.H. the Maharaja of Jind who, with his family, occupied the same A Deck suite of rooms used by the King and Queen of Siam.

With the largest eastbound list she had yet carried, Empress of Japan docked at Victoria early on 10 June 1931, with 742 in all classes, of whom 60 landed there. Docking at 7:25 a.m., she was off again for Vancouver at 9:45 a.m. There was time enough for the Victoria Daily Times to interview the ship's Chinese interpreter aboard, Wong Sue, who credited the ship's swift record breaking speed and successes with a porcelain figurine in his possession dating from the Ming dynasty, and belonging to his family for 400 years. "Unceasingly, Wong explained, he prays to this porcelain figure, beseeching it to propitiate the evil demons and lend wings to the ship." Proving the point, Empress of Japan did the run from Honolulu to Williams Head in 4 days 9 hours 16 mins or two hours better than Empress of Canada's record just made on her last run up from the islands. So she had broken two records on one trip, both at the expense of her fleetmate.

Among the nearly 600 sailing in Empress of Japan from Vancouver for Honolulu and the Orient on 20 June 1931 was Sir Francis Lindsley, British Ambassador to Japan as well 100 professors and undergraduates of the University of Oregon. "While paper streamers have become a normal feature of big ship sailings here, the gaily colored ribbons on this occasion outclassed all records. The Japan's snow-white sides were literally obliterated by a rainbow-hued camouflage, and long after she left the dock the cheers and last good-byes from ship to shore and vice versa echoed across the glistening waters of the harbor. " (Vancouver Sun, 20 June 1931). Also aboard was R.R. Liddell, Superintendent Engineer of C.P.S. who would be superintending the ship's summer drydocking at Hong Kong this trip.

Credit: Times Colonist, 4 July 1931

Canadian Pacific announced on 4 July 1931 a further extension of their Honolulu calls commencing that coming winter and into summer 1932. This would have Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia make four calls there, with the former calling on 19 December and 16 January 1931 westbound and the former on 4 June and 27 August eastbound. It was further revealed that effective 1 August that the designations of Second Class and Steerage would be abolished on the Pacific Empresses. Second Class would henceforth be called Tourist Cabin with lower fares, from $210 to $190 in Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada. Steerage would be reclassed as Third "enclosed" (cabins) and "open" (dormitory). The reclassification would also facilitate through fares from the Orient to London using the trans-Atlantic C.P.R. ships already offering Tourist Cabin.

Introducing "Tourist Cabin" on the trans-Pacific service instead of Second Class in August 1931. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

On 25 July 1931 Empress of Japan left Yokohama for Victoria and Vancouver via Honolulu with 471 passengers and a cargo including 450 measurement tons of raw silk. When she came into Victoria on 5 August she had 682 aboard, having added 211 in Honolulu on the 1st. This would be the final eastbound call there until the stop was made permanent the following year. Canadian Pacific announced on 1 August 1931 that Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada would resume their eastbound calls at Honolulu effected with the Japan's stop there on 22 March 1932.

Her next voyage Out East, saw Empress of Japan clear Victoria at 6:00 p.m. on 15 August 1931 with 652 passengers, 117 for Honolulu where she called on the 20th. This was her first voyage carrying Tourist Cabin Class.

Credit: Hong Kong Telegraph, 9 September 1931.

When Empress of Japan docked at Hong Kong on 8 September 1931 from Manila and Vancouver, she completed

...her most peculiarly eventful trip since her launching. In the phraseology of the famous Cochran revue, life aboard has been for the officers just "One Dam Thing After Another."

Most startling among the happenings is related in a grim story of a Filipino running amok and seriously injuring four of his countrymen.

Earlier in the voyage, soon after leaving Vancouver, in fact, a number of young American or Canadian students are reported to have been found stowed away.

The amok occurred immediately after the great vessel had gone alongside her wharf in Manila, Valeriano Astero launching an attack with an iron wrench on four companions, two of whom are lying between life and death in hospital in Manila.

The third event of this unusual sequence was the discovery of another stowaway, between Manila and Hong Kong, and finally, according to an unconfirmed report, a Chinese steerage passenger attempted suicide. When the Empress of Japan arrived in port yesterday, in fact, Young Taol, aged 31, was taken off by the police described as madman, and he had been since lodged at the Mental Hospital.

It was later learned that Young Taol attacked the Master-at-Arms aboard the Empress of Japan yesterday morning, after acting queerly in a passageway.

According to report, the American stowaways are being landed until the Empress reaches Vancouver on the completion of the return trip, but the other stowaway, a Russian, was taken ashore at Hong Kong, and this morning appeared in Kowloon Magistracy, when he was convicted and fined $50 or one month's hard labour.

The Hong Kong Telegraph, 10 September 1931.

Breaking no records, for a change, Empress of Japan still had a fine passage, averaging 21.5 knots, homewards. reaching Victoria the morning of 27 September 1931 with a light passenger list of 62 First, 30 Second, 18 Third and 162 steerage, including the U.S. Ambassador to Japan, and 1,450 tons (measurement) of raw silk. Capt. Robinson reported that a highlight of the voyage was being circled while in Yokohama by Col. And Mrs. Charles Lindbergh as they approached Tokyo on their trans-Pacific flight. Proceeding to Vancouver, Empress of Japan put in a very fast run, leaving at 9:15 a.m. and arriving there at 1:45 p.m.

The day she sailed from Vancouver, The Province published the wonderful account of sailing day and life aboard Empress of Japan. [LEFT CLICK to access full scan to read]. Credit: The Province, 11 October 1931.

With 636 passengers, including 80 for Honolulu and Canada's Ambassador to Japan, Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver and Victoria on 10 October 1931, a half hour late owing to a last minute quantity of baggage to take aboard. This was the first sailing with new class designations for Third Class, Third Class Enclosed used four-berth cabins and Open used dormitories, both using the existing Third Class public rooms and deck space. Fares for both types of accommodation were reduced as well.

An Empress Takes Her Leave: R.M.S. Empress of Japan about to cast-off from Victoria, Orient-bound. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Empress of Japan's departure from Victoria occasioned this delightful account in the Times Colonist of 17 October 1931:

Three mighty blasts from the large whistle on the first huge yellow funnel high above the top of the wharf sheds; a shrill toot from a mouth whistle on the bridge, a command from the open doorway, a clanging of bells deep in the engine room, and down goes the heavy gangway as the longshoremen rub their hands. The big white liner with the blue band, the Empress of Japan, is ready to sail across the Pacific to the Orient. Another minute and she will be moving slowly away. There is stillness for a moment, and then, what is that? 'Toot, toot,' snorts an automobile horn. There is a rattle of boards and the screeching of brakes, and a taxi arrives at the gangway. Two frantic women jump out, a bewildered driver grabs two grips, and three parcels, a huge bouquet of flower, a basket of fruit. A willing spectator helps, and picks up golf bags and a bird cage and together they follow the two women up the gangway.

Just a minute! The gangplank has to up again. The captain, from the bridge gives another order, and in quick time the women and their baggage are aboard, and the great white craft backs with more clanging of bells. Another two minutes and the women would have missed their steamer.

All this happened last Saturday at the Rithet piers as Empress of Japan was ready to sail for the Orient.

No one on the dock says much, except to remark how grand and regal the ship looks backing out into the sunset, over a calm sea of deep blue. She turns slowly, drops her pilot off Brotchie Ledge and then points her great bow towards Race Rocks. Not until she had round the Race, however, is the order given for full speed ahead. Then she is away, off on a voyage of some 2,2000 miles to Honolulu, the first stop. And will come Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Manila.

In a real end of an era announcement, it was reported by the Victoria and Vancouver papers on 20 October 1931, that Capt. Samuel Robinson, R.N.R., C.B.E., R.D., commander of Empress of Japan, hero of the Tokyo Earthquake in 1923 whilst master of Empress of Australia, and with the line since 1895 and its beginnings on the Pacific, would be retiring in early spring. With him, the ship's veteran Chief Purser, Ernest Syder, R.N.R, and Chief Steward Thomas J. Bridge, would also "swallow the anchor." On 10 November it was announced that Capt. L.D. Douglas, R.N.R., commander of Empress of Asia, would be promoted to captain Empress of Japan and James A. Muir, of Empress of Canada and latterly of Empress of Russia, would be the new Chief Purser.

Empress of Japan left Yokohama on 14 November 1931 direct for Canada, with a light list of 66 First, 28 Tourist Cabin and 106 Third Class. Among those aboard was the Canadian delegation returning from the Shanghai conference of the Institute of Pacific Relations, headed by the Hon. Vincent Massey, former Canadian Ambassador to the United States and later the first Canadian born Governor-General of the Dominion and the brother of actor Raymond Massey. Her cargo included 310 tons (measured) of raw silk for New York or six or seven carloads. "After a remarkably calm voyage across the North Pacific for this time of year," she arrived at Victoria the morning of the 22nd. "The Empress of Japan lived up to her reputation as 'the fair weather ship of the Pacific,' Capt. Samuel Robinson, R.N.R., said yesterday in speaking of the nine-day voyage. Never since she arrived her fifteen months ago has she been in a really bad storm." (Victoria Daily Times, 23 November 1931). She arrived at Vancouver that day at 3:15 p.m.

On 4 December 1931 Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver at 11:00 a.m. and from Victoria at 6:00 p.m., taking out 577 passengers. This would be the final voyage for her veteran Chief Purser Ernest Synder who would retire upon arrival back in Vancouver in late January, with 2,600,000 miles under his belt during 217 round voyages between Vancouver and Manila in the last 31 years, said he wanted to "travel and see the world" in his retirement. When Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver she had 350 tons of British Columbia potatoes and onions for the East, the first big shipment of its kind. The ship encountered very severe weather en route to Honolulu and had to reduce speed to 10 knots and was late arriving, coming in at 1:30 p.m. on the 10th. Capt. Robinson finally found his first patch of bad weather aboard her. She landed 57 passengers there before proceeding for the Orient.

Cover of 1932 Canadian Pacific brochure. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

1932

Empress of Japan left Yokohama on 9 January 1932, once again direct for Canada, with a small list of passengers as befitting the winter season. When she arrived at Victoria on the 17th, Capt. Robinson found Emma Alexander already at the opposite berth at the Rithlet Docks and with a stiff southeast wind blowing, would have none of it as was his custom when another ship was in the opposite slip and took Empress of Japan straight into Vancouver when she docked at 1:20 p.m. to land her 125 passengers.

This would be the last arrival of an Empress liner in British Columbia until 22 February 1931 during which the fleet was rotated in and out of annual drydocking at Hong Kong starting with Empress of Asia 16 January-5 February then Empress of Canada 27 January-20 February, Empress of Russia 13 February-4 March and finally, Empress of Japan due to sail from Vancouver and Victoria on 31 January and enter dry dock at Hong Kong on 24 February and resume service on 15 March to arrive back in Canada on 2 April. This sailing would also reinstate the eastbound call at Honolulu by three of the Empresses through summer with Empress of Russia left on the direct North Pacific run.

Empress of Japan cleared Yokohama on 22 March 1932 and arrived at Honolulu on the 28th, making her first eastbound call for C.P. that year. Among aboard was the famed war correspondent, Floyd Gibbons, who was on his back from covering the Sino-Japanese war for Hearst newspapers. He transhipped the next day on President Coolidge for San Francisco. Also aboard, returning from the Hong Kong drydocking, were C.P. Ship's Capt. A.J. Holland, Marine Superintendent; and R.R. Liddell, Engineering Superintendent. She took out a very large list of 106 embarkees upon sailing that afternoon and, in all, had 336 passengers (166 First, 80 Tourist Cabin and 90 Third) aboard when she came into Victoria the morning of 2 April. Empress of Japan came alongside Pier B at Vancouver later that afternoon.

Capt. Samuel Robinson, bad farewell to his ship and a 37-year-career, upon arrival at Vancouver, his home. He told reporters he was not sure how his dog, a Pekingese, who had accompanied him on many trans-Pacific voyages, would take to life on land and "is anxiously awaiting results."

After a short turnaround to get back on schedule following her drydocking, and with Capt. L.D. Douglas, R.N.R. on her bridge, Empress of Japan sailed on 9 April 1932 from Vancouver at 11:00 a.m. and from Victoria at 6:00 p.m. for Honolulu and the Orient with 250 passengers and another 175 boarding at Honolulu on the 14th where she landed 30. By the time she arrived at Manila on 1 May, she 104 First and 218 Third Class passengers, 1,550 tons of cargo and 660 bags of mail. She sailed on her eastbound voyage the following afternoon.

Business men, who made up a sizeable portion of the Empresses' First Class trans-Pacific trade were afforded a chance to work their passage as it where when on 5 May 1931 it was announced that two "seagoing stenographers" would join the staffs of Empress of Canada and Empress of Japan or as the Times-Colonist reported: "No longer need big executives of banks, oil companies and governments murder their portables to the home office reports into readable shape, for two fleet-fingered lassies will handle them in business-like style."

After calling at Kobe, Empress of Japan departed Yokohama on 13 May 1932 for Honolulu and B.C. ports with 486 passengers. After coming with 44 minutes of breaking her own record from Honolulu to Victoria, she docked there early on the 24th, where it was also revealed that owing to fine weather, she also came within two hours of her existing Yokohama-Honolulu record. "We made no attempt to break any existing record," Capt. Douglas told reporters, "We had good weather and made good time as a result." She came in with 410 passengers, 63 having embarked at Honolulu replacing a similar number who landed there. Chief among them was Sir William Peel, K.C.M.G., K.B.E, C.M.G, Governor-General of Hong Kong, and Lady Peel. "The voyage across the Pacific, and the call at Hawaii has been very enjoyable and Lady Peel and I have greatly benefited from this exhilarating cruise. This is a wonderful ship, and had a delightful time while aboard her," Sir William told reporters.

In a major departure and a big boost for British Columbia shipyards and suppliers as well as shipyard labour, Canadian Pacific's Capt. E. Aikman, Superintendent of C.P. Ships, announced on 19 May 1932 that in an agreement with the Federal Government, all four of the Pacific Empresses would henceforth undergo their summer hull cleanings at the big Navy drydock (the second largest graving dock in the world) at Esquilmalt instead of Hong Kong. The more comprehensive early winter docking would still be done in Hong Kong, however, and Capt. Aikman acknowledged that the costs would be greater, "but we are glad to do what we can." The actual work would be carried out by Yarrow's Ltd. and Empress of Russia was the first drydocked on 8 July for two days.

With Empress of Britain on the North Atlantic and Empress of Japan on the North Pacific, The All Red Route achieved its acme of express and efficiency so that passengers landing at Vancouver could reach Southampton aboard Empress of Britain on 3 June 1932 or 21 days from Yokohama. In the opposite direction, passengers in Empress Britain from Southampton on 21 May reached Vancouver at 9:00 a.m. on the 31st or nine and a half days, "The Empress of Britain's speedy Atlantic crossing, coupled with a close connection by boat train from Quebec to Montreal to connect with the transcontinental train made the record possible." (Vancouver Sun, 1 June 1932).

Delayed at day to await travellers coming from the East Coast, Empress of Japan sailed on Sunday, 5 June 1932 from Vancouver and Victoria, leaving with 390 passengers, including 190 through passengers for the Orient.

When Empress of Japan came alongside Victoria on 19 July 1932, with 383 aboard, reporters rushed aboard to interview famous novelist Pearl Buck (author of East Wind, West Wind and The Good Earth) and husband Prof. J.L. Buck of Nanking University who were coming to America on holiday. Also aboard was the Chinese Ambassador to Great Britain, Dr. Quo Tai Chi.

Empress of Japan in the Dominion Graving Dock, Esquimalt, B.C.. On her first such visit, she became the largest vessel yet to be drydocked in Canada. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

After unloading at Vancouver, Empress of Japan sailed at 9:00 p.m. on 21 July 1932 for Esquimalt for her first Canadian drydocking.

Even the gigantic hull of the liner Empress of Japan was unable to test the great size of the Dominion Government drydock in Esquimalt harbor this morning when she was floated in for her annual overhaul. There was still room for another large ship after the Empress was safely through the big gates.

Promptly at 7 o'clock this morning the Empress of Japan passed into the basis. It took forty minutes to manoeuvre her into position and the cassons, those great iron gates at the seaward end, were closed. No steam was used to put the Empress in the basin. She was hauled in from the shore, her bridge towering high above the workman who put her in, under the direction of Capt. O.H. Parker, dock superintendent.

The blocks had been placed in the drydock yesterday from measurements secured of the Empress. As soon as the big ship was in position over these blocks the water was pumped out of the basin and in two and half hours the Empress was high and dry, water streaming from various parts of her great hull. She made a striking picture, being the largest ship ever to enter the local basin, and the largest ship, for that matter, ever to be put in a Canadian drydock.

Times Colonist, 22 July 1932

Some 150 men of the Yarrow Ltd. were employed for the project, costing $2,500, to remove the barnacles and seagrowth from her underwater hull and paint it. The job was completed by 2:00 p.m. on 23 July and after being refloated, she steamed back to Vancouver to load for her next voyage to the Orient, "spotless, in a new coat of paint," (Vancouver Sun).

There were 260 passengers for Oriental ports and 50 for Honolulu aboard as Empress of Japan cleared the Rithet piers at Victoria at 6:00 p.m. on 30 July 1932, looking "particularly white and shining this trip," according to the Times Colonist after her drydocking. In her holds was a sample shipment of local loganberry wine for Hong Kong, it being "hoped that a market will be developed at the Chinese port for this local product." She docked at Honolulu on 4 August, but her intended sailing the following day was delayed four hours to load 500 cases of New Zealand butter transhipped from Niagara up from Auckland. The C.P.R. liner embarked 76 additional passengers for Oriental ports. Empress of Japan ended her westbound crossing at Manila on 21 August 1932 where she landed 67 cabin passengers and 132 Third Class, 1,250 tons of cargo and 680 bags of mail.

"The Empress of Japan has experienced splendid weather on this trip from the Orient. She is making excellent time," said the Times-Colonist on 12 September 1932 in anticipation of the liner arriving at Victoria the next morning from the Orient with a big list of passengers, swelled by many from Honolulu who opted to sail in the magnificent new ship rather than Aorangi which left a few days earlier. In all, she came in with 95 First, 75 Tourist Cabin and 99 Third Class, 506 bags of mail for Victoria and 207 for Vancouver. "A fine passage was experienced, according to Capt. L.D. Douglas. His ship, he said, was rather fortunate in escaping the typhoons an storms in Far Eastern waters. There was old sailor's rhyme, he pointed out, which dealt with typhoons and applied to the China Sea as well as anywhere else. The end of it ran: September, remember, October, all over." (Times-Colonist, 13 September 1932).

Among those aboard had, in fact been a passenger since… March. When asked why he so favoured Empress of Japan, J.G. Willis of California and "Scion of a wealthy California oil family," told the Vancouver Sun, "he likes the officers of the Empress of Japan and likes to be with them. He also thinks the boat itself one of the finest in the world on which to travel." To date, he had completed four round voyages in succession. But taking a break, Mr. Willis travelled to New York, make his way to Naples, then join Empress of Britain in December there on her world cruise, sail as far as Hong Kong and rejoin Empress of Japan to renew old acquaintances.

Beginning the busy autumn season, Empress of Japan took out 556 passengers (478 for the Orient and 78 for Honolulu where another 322 would embark) on 24 September 1932. When she concluded her westbound crossing at Manila on 16 October, she still had 432 aboard, 1,760 tons of cargo and 250 bags of mail. There were 675 aboard on her 19 November sailing from Canada and clearly the Depression was less keenly felt on the trans-Pacific routes than the North Atlantic.

Indicative of a true Golden Age for Canadian Pacific Empresses, on 21 December 1932 the company announced a new combination cruise aboard Empress of Japan and Empress of Britain especially for West Coast Canadians and Americans. This entailed sailing from Vancouver and Victoria in Empress of Japan on 14 January 1933 on her regular crossing to Japan, China and reaching Manila on 5 February. After landing there for a three-day stay, passengers would embark in Empress of Britain, half way through her world cruise, and depart on the 9th for Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beppu, Kobe, Yokohama, Honolulu, Hilo, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Balboa, Cristobal, Havana and New York. Another option was to disembark at Honolulu on 17 March, transship to R.M.S. Niagara, inbound from the Antipodes, and sail direct for Victoria and Vancouver.

Cover of 1933 Canadian Pacific brochure. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

1933

One of Vancouver's most attractive spectacles will recur this evening when the C.P.R. liner Empress of Japan, the Pacific's largest ship, arrives at dusk with lights ablaze. She is due at Pier C at 6:30 o'clock from China and Japan via Hawaii.

The Vancouver Sun, 3 January 1933.

Averaging 21.5 knots between Yokohama and Honolulu, Empress of Japan arrived at Vancouver on 3 January 1933, landing 113 passengers, 49 First Class, at 9:00 p.m.

On 13 January 1933 it was announced that Empress of Japan had won the C.P.R. Efficiency Award for 1932 for lifeboat, fire and collision drill and general seamanship.

On her first voyage of the New Year, Empress of Japan sailed on 14 January 1933 with 213 passengers at 11:00 a.m. and 70 for Honolulu where she arrived on 19th.

During this voyage, Empress of Japan underwent her 22-day winter overhaul at Kowloon along with Empress of Russia, sailing from Manila on 6 February for Hong Kong. On 11 February 1933 they were joined by Empress of Britain, on her world cruise (with George Bernard Shaw and Cornelius Vanderbilt, Jr. among her 363 passengers). Capt. R.G. Latta (Empress of Britain), Capt. L.D. Douglas (Empress of Japan) and Capt. A.J. Hosken of Empress of Russia enjoyed luncheon together aboard the Britain. Empress of Britain sailed on the 15th for Shanghai. Empress of Japan left on 2 March and after calling at Shanghai and Kobe, departed Yokohama on the 9th for Honolulu.

When Empress of Japan swept past Race Rocks on 20 March 1933, she had broken her own record from Honolulu, clocking 4 days 8 hours 3 mins at an average of 22.4 knots or two hours faster than she achieved about a year previously. She left Honolulu at 4:00 p.m. on the 16th and passed Race Rocks at 5:30 a.m. on the 20th. Capt. L.D. Douglas, R.N.R. "said smooth weather had enabled the liner to break her record," but that she was fresh from a three-day drydocking at Hong Kong and had a clean hull, no doubt aided her progress. She came in with nearly 200 passengers, 58 who had embarked at Honolulu.

Credit: Gladstone Age Press, 25 May 1933.

To get the ship back on schedule after her extended sojourn in Hong Kong for drydocking, Empress of Japan's turnaround in Vancouver was a brief one and she was off again for the Orient at 11:00 a.m.. on 25 March 1933. Among those joining the ship, via Seattle, at Victoria later that day were American aviator Jimmy Doolittle and his wife, starting a trip around the world. She took out 155 passengers from Vancouver and another 150 embarked at Honolulu on the 30th.

When Empress of Japan docked at Honolulu on 4 May 1933, she had 336 through passengers and 77 landing there as well as a consignment of 8,000 cases of Asahi beer. She arrived at Victoria on the 9th with to 500 passengers, 160 from the Orient en route to U.K./Continent. At Vancouver that evening, she landed 416, 210 in First and 80 in Tourist Cabin.

During her layovers at Vancouver, Empress of Japan was frequently thrown open to visitors for an admittance fee to aid charities, and was also used as the glittering venue for banquets and functions as befitting her glamourous reputation. On the evening of 18 May, she hosted the annual Consular Corps Dinner Dance, "… party supreme, at which no stone of enjoyment was left unturned for the pleasure of those whose privilege it was to be number among the guest bidden to board the 'White Empress of the Pacific' as she lay alongside Pier A, Thursday evening… In the foyer adjoining the main dining salon, cocktails and hors d'oeuvres were served prior to dinner. Throughout the entire evening a score or more of Chinese attendants, garbed in long white tunics over silken trousers, laced above brocaded slippers, anticipated the needs of the guests. In the musicians' gallery a 6-piece orchestra rendered a program of selections during the dinner hours. The dinner itself would have met with 100 per cent approval from the most fastilious connoisseur of delectable foods." (Vancouver Sun, 19 May 1933).

Returning to Manila after trip with a delegation to Washington, D.C. to lobby for Philippine Independence, Philippine Senate President (and later President of the Commonwealth) Manuel Quezon is greeted aboard Empress of Japan by colleagues. Credit: The Tribune, 14 June 1933.

Empress of Japan begin another voyage "Out East" on 20 May 1933, departing Vancouver with 322 through passengers and 28 for Honolulu where she called 25-26th. She was joined in the shadow of the Aloha Tower by Lurline and President Coolidge. She landed a good list of 175 First and 205 Third Class at Manila on 11 June and 1,600 tons of cargo. Among her passengers was an official Philippine Independence Commission returning from a trip to Washington, D.C. which included President of the Senate (and later President) Manuel L. Quezon and Speaker Manuel Roxas. A record crowd of some 10,000 lined seawall as Empress of Japan came in and the delegation embarked in a launch outside the breakwater to take them amid general acclaim to Admiral Landing.

Empress of Japan steamed out of Yokohama on 23 June 1933 for Honolulu and British Columbia where upon arrival on 4 July, she was scheduled to go for drydocking at Esquimalt. She came in with 400 passengers with 170 in First Class.

Honolulu Ocean Liner Heyday: 20 July 1933: from left, Lurline, Empress of Japan, President Coolidge, Republic and Asama Maru. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

With 257 passengers aboard, 110 for Honolulu, Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver and Victoria on 15 July 1933. When she came into Honolulu on the 20th she helped make up a remarkable assemblage of 159,000 tons of liners in the port. Also arriving that day were President Coolidge (from San Francisco, bound for Yokohama), Lurline (from San Francisco and sailing for Los Angeles) and Asama Maru from Yokohama, bound for San Francisco. Already alongside was the transport U.S.A.T. Republic. Elsewhere in the harbor was U.S.A.T. U.S. Grant. In all, Honolulu was thronged with some 1,800 visitors that day, a high point for tourism in the city for the year.

The last of the "old timers" still serving among the officers aboard Empress of Japan, it was made known on 12 August 1933 that Chief Engineer James Lamb would retire, after 34 years' service, upon the ship's arrival at Vancouver on the 29th. In addition to her, he had served as Chief Engineer in the old Empress of Japan, Empress of India, Empress of China, Athenia, Monteagle, Empress of Russia, Empress of Asia and Empress of Canada.

Coming in from Yokohama, Empress of Japan landed 210 passengers at Honolulu on 24 August 1933. To her 318 through passengers, she embarked another 70 there before proceeding home. Concluding her voyage at Vancouver on the 29th, she still had 325 landing there.

In a "First" on the Pacific, eight women of Empress of Japan's crew all qualified as lifeboatmen after passing a British of Trade Certificate during the ship's September 1933 turnaround at Vancouver. Credit: Honolulu Advertiser, 4 October 1933.

Empress of Japan sails from Vancouver 9 September 1933. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

With one of her best lists in some time, Empress of Japan had 438 passengers aboard leaving Canada on 9 September 1933, among those aboard being Kathleen Norris, well known novelist from San Francisco, with her family bound for Hong Kong, and the German Ambassador to Japan. This was the first voyage with Robert Henry Shaw as Chief Engineer who was appointed on the 5th, who had already 19 years with CPR and most recently as Asst. Chief Engineer. When she came into Honolulu on the 14th, Empress of Japan joined President Coolidge, Lurline and President McKinley in port. She embarked 238 for the trans-Pacific run which concluded with her arrival at Manila on 1 October where she docked with 240 passengers. Yet, the Depression, then at its worst, still reflected in passenger carryings and when she docked at Honolulu on the 19th, she had but 62 passengers to land there and only 144 through fares for Victoria and Vancouver.

Westbound crossings continued to show better passenger loads and there were 575 aboard when Empress of Japan departed Vancouver on 4 November 1933, of whom 70 were bound for Honolulu. On the return crossing, a heavy southwest gale off Victoria prevented her from docking there on 19 December and she proceeded straight to Vancouver with what was described as "a fair passenger list, and her general cargo consignment is good, while the silk shipment is average." (The Province). In addition to her 200 passengers, her cargo featured a large consignment of Japanese made toys just in time for the Christmas season and a heavy holiday mail of 670 bags.

Enjoying a Christmas in her homeport, Purser John Moir, Chief Steward Walter Wright and Chef Tom McCarthy organised a Christmas party for 100 children of the crew, held in the ship's Palm Court on 23 December 1933 with Purser Moir making "an acceptable Santa Claus" during the affair.

Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

1934

Winter weary Canadians destined for the warmth and sun of Hawaii comprised 103 among the 375 sailing in Empress of Japan on 30 December 1933, the largest Honolulu contingent in more than a year. Upon arrival there on 5 January 1934, 29 Orient-bound passengers embarked. Customs officials seized $30,000 worth of opium when a guard saw a bag thrown from a porthole, but the smugglers were not apprehended after an extensive search aboard. The Empress was a day off her schedule when she came into Manila on the 22nd with 55 cabin passengers and 68 Third Class, 600 tons of cargo and 210 bags of mail. She left later that day for Hong Kong where she would undergo her annual drydocking.

Canadian Pacific announced on 3 February that all four Pacific Empresses would be equipped with sound equipment to show "talkies" with Empress of Japan so fitted in time for her March sailing. Film evenings would include a "recent feature presentation followed by a comedy or other short subject."

Credit: The Province, 7 March 1934.

For the second consecutive year, Empress of Japan won the E.W. Beatty shield for the "greatest efficiency in boat drills and general management" among the C.P. Pacific fleet. The award was presented to Capt. L.D. Douglas alongside her Vancouver pier on 9 March 1934.

Empress of Japan's next westbound crossing, beginning 10 March 1934 had another good list of 450 passengers, 35 for Honolulu, including the Grand Exalted Ruler of the Elks who was greeted by a delegation of Elks from Honolulu upon arrival on the 15th.

Canadian Pacific's part share ownership of Canadian-Australian Line resulted in coordinating their calls at Honolulu to enable roundtrip holiday voyages from Vancouver and Victoria including Empress of Japan outbound on 5 May 1934, two days in Honolulu and return in Aorangi on the 18th.

One of the most memorable days in the history of the Port of Honolulu: 19 April 1934, Empress of Britain on her annual world cruise, meets up with Empress of Japan, both inbound from Yokohama. Credit: Honolulu Advertiser, 1 May 1934.

In a remarkable meeting, Empress of Britain, on her world cruise, and Empress of Japan, rendezvoused at Honolulu on 19 April 1934, their first encounter since the Japan passed the Britain on the ways as she left the Clyde. The C.P. flagship left Yokohama on the 11th with 459 passengers, a list glittering with the rich and famous, and docked at Honolulu on the 18th where she stayed for three days before proceeding to Hilo. On the 19th, Empress of Japan, inbound from Yokohama as well, joined her in the shadow of the Aloha Tower, coming in at 10:30 a.m., and berthing at right angles to the Britain's stern, at Pier 9. Empress of Japan came in with 68 passengers for Honolulu and 377 through passengers, embarking another 127 before departing for Vancouver later that day. With the best eastbound list of the year, she arrived at Vancouver on the 24th with 600 aboard.

Canadian Pacific Apogee: Empress of Britain and Empress of Japan together at Honolulu, 19 April 1934, their first and only meeting in commercial service. Credit: Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Considered to represent "an upturn in passenger travel" (Vancouver Sun), Empress of Japan left Vancouver on 5 May 1934 with 46 First Class for Honolulu and 55 for the Orient, 7 Tourist Class for the Honolulu and 28 for the Orient and 100 in Third Class upon departure from Vancouver 5 May 1934. On her eastbound crossing, Empress of Japan had an impressive 624 passengers when she came into Honolulu on 14 June of whom 204 landed there and 117 embarked for the final leg to Victoria and Vancouver. This was one of the largest she had carried since 1931. When she docked at Vancouver on the 20th, she still had 538 to land.

Under the command of Capt. A.V.R. Lovegrove, D.S.O., R.N.R., relieving Capt. Douglas who has on leave, Empress of Japan had an exceptionally large list of 614 passengers when she cleared Vancouver at 11:00 a.m. on 30 June 1934. Upon arrival at Honolulu on 5 July, she landed 100, and was among five liners docking that day, the others being Aorangi, President Cleveland, Tatsuta Maru and Lurline.

Doubtless one of the ship's most celebrated voyages was when Empress of Japan conveyed the Major League All Star Baseball Team from Vancouver to Yokohama for a series of games in Japan. This was to depart in October and on 11 July 1934 it was announced that the vessel's call at Honolulu would be reduced with an early arrival there on 25 October, instead of the 26th and departure the same day to ensure an on time arrival in Yokohama on 2 November. There were also plans, by Earle Mack and John Shribe, who were organising the trip, to have the stars play an exhibition game at Honolulu Stadium during the call. On 1 August the American League All-Star line-up set for the tour (essentially the same who defeated the National League at the All Star Game in New York on 10 July) was announced and a glittering roster is was, representing a true heyday of The Game:

Catchers: Bill Dickey (New York) and Charlie Berry (Philadelphia)

Pitchers: Earl Whitehill (Washington) and Clint Brown (Cleveland)

First Basemen: Lou Gehrig (New York), Jimmy Foxx (Philadelphia)

Second Basemen: Charles Gehringer (Detroit)

Shortstop: Joe Cronin (Washington)

Third basemen: Frank Higgins (Philadelphia)

Left Fielder: Henry Manush (Washington)

Center Fielder: Earl Averill (Cleveland)

Right Fielder: Babe Ruth (New York)

The Japanese sponsors wanted the team to come over on a Japanese liner entailing a 15 October departure but Mack said that would be too soon after the World Series.

When the U.S. Pacific Dock Strike parallelized shipping along the coast for 74 days, the U.S. Navy and U.S. Army were obliged to contract C.P.R. to ship vital supplies to the bases in Hawaii. On 24 July 1934 it was reported that on her last outward voyage, Empress of Japan carried 250 tons of frozen beef, butter and other foodstuffs to Honolulu.

After arriving from the Orient on 14 August 1934 with 501 passengers and several hours late after encountering fog off Victoria, Empress of Japan left Vancouver at midnight on the 17th for her mid-summer drydocking at Esquimalt, returning to her berth on the 20th to load for her next voyage.

A great scene of coming and going as the Empress of Japan left the port of Vancouver today.

It was reminiscent of the palmy days when money was easier. The 'Japan' smart and sleek for her long ocean voyage, carried approximately 400 passengers; and as she drew away from her berth the voyagers clustered at her side, the women in brightly colored frocks, seemed to make a gay garden of many hues. Besides, many hundreds of visitors to Vancouver-- and, mark this, you who live by the sea, many of them had never seen a ship before-- gathered at the wharfside and watched the 'Japan' glide out.

I wonder what it feels like, as a grown man or woman, to see the sea and a great liner for the first time? I should like to know that thrill.

The Vancouver Sun, 25 August 1934.

With Capt. Douglas back on her bridge and with 376 passengers aboard, 161 bound for Honolulu, Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver on 25 August 1934. When she completed the crossing, upon arrival at Manila on 16 September, she landed 234 passengers, 1,358 tons of cargo and 380 bags of mail there before setting off on her eastbound trip.

Babe Ruth with his wife and daughter aboard Empress of Japan, 19 October 1934. Credit: City of Vancouver Archives.

Empress of Japan sails from Vancouver 19 October 1934 with the American League All Star Team bound for Yokohama. Credit: City of Vancouver Archives.

The long anticipated "Baseball All Star" voyage of Empress of Japan finally got underway on Saturday morning, 20 October 1934 with 561 passengers. Babe Ruth sailed with his wife and daughter Julia and when catcher Charlie Berry was taken off the trans-continental train in North Dakota for an emergency appendectomy, Frank Hayes, the rookie catcher for the Philadelphia Athletics sailed in his place. Clint Brown of the Cleveland made the trip his honeymoon voyage with his wife of a few weeks and the press and newsreel boys were out in force along with autograph seekers. During the voyage, the players mingled with their fellow passengers and tried to keep as fit as possible.

The second day out was very rough, yet I am ashamed to tell you what Ruth and myself ate. Upon leaving his sick bed the following day, Earl Whitehill said we should have saved it and opened a grocery store.

Beautiful sailing in the past two days under the southern Polynesian sun. Worked out on the sports deck both days-- pitch and catch. Play a picked team in Honolulu tomorrow and sail for Yokohama immediately after.

from a diary kept by Moe Berg, Vancouver Sun, 14 November 1934

Cheering crowds greeted the S.S. Empress of Japan, aboard which the team crossed the Pacific, at Yokohama, late in October and even greater crowds were at the station in Tokyo when she special train arrived.

Vancouver Sun, 3 January 1935

A great welcome awaited the ship and players on arrival at Honolulu on 25 October 1934 where they would play an exhibition game. She sailed at 6:30 p.m. that evening. The reception for the team in Japan, where Empress of Japan docked at Yokohama on 1 November, was unprecedented with an estimated 100,000 turning out in Tokyo for the parade.

Empress of Japan coming alongside at Yokohama on 1 November 1934 to an ecstatic welcome by Japanese baseball fans. Credit: Baseball Hall of Fame.

Adding to the excitement of the voyage was Empress of Japan setting another new speed record in the course of it, making the run from Honolulu to Yokohama in 6 days 16 hours 53 mins, cutting three hours off the previous record, set in July 1931 by Empress of Canada. At the time, it was recalled that Empress of Japan also held the following records:

Yokohama-Victoria 7 days 20 hours 16 mins April 1931
Honolulu-Victoria 4 days 8 hours 3 mins with fastest speed recorded of 22.28 knots March 1933
Yokohama-Kobe 15 hours 54 mins.

With considerably less publicity, Empress of Japan proceeded to Kobe, Shanghai, Hong Kong and arrived at Manila on 11 November 1934, landing 117 cabin passenger, 183 Third Class and 1,400 tons of cargo.

Empress of Japan in the Whangpoo River outbound from Shanghai. Credit: Ken Harrow, Ships Nostalgia

Empress of Japan sailed from Manila on 12 November 1934, numbering among her passengers actress Betty Compson and cellist Regina Feldman, called at Hong Kong and made a bit of history on arrival at Shanghai on the 18th. Hitherto, the liner berthed on the Pootung side of the Whangpoo River, facing the impressive Western skyline of The Bund. Progressive dredging of the river and approaches to the city by the Shanghai & Hongkew Wharf Co. permitted the big Empress to now berth along the company's wharf on the Shanghai side of the river and her first docking was reported in the North China Herald: "With the aid of a single tug, the Empress of Japan swung at point down river and was berthed stern first at 10.30 p.m., creating tremendous interest among the people gathered on the wharf to meet their friends. Yesterday she presented a picturesque sight, her white hulk and three yellow funnels towering unfamiliarly in a part of the harbour used only by much smaller vessels." She stopped at Honolulu on the 29th where she landed 103 passengers. "Laden with a large and valuable cargo, including raw silk, Japanese oranges, silver bullion and general Oriental freight," (Vancouver Sun), Empress of Japan returned to her homeport on 4 December, landing the last of her 281 passengers there and concluding one of the most notable and successful voyages of her career.

When Empress of Japan left Vancouver on 15 December 1934 her list of 400 was swelled by a holiday group of 136 who would spend Christmas Day at Sea aboard Aorangi and return on the 28th. It was largest group of tourists yet landed on the island from the Pacific Northwest. The voyage was marred by the mysterious disappearance of Mrs. Agnes Bates, one of the ship's stewardesses, off the Japanese coast and it was believed she had fallen overboard.

Cover of 1935 brochure. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

1935

Arriving at Manila on 6 January 1935, Empress of Japan left the next day for Hong Kong where she would remain until the 29th undergoing her annual drydocking at Kowloon. As usual, the ships' Vancouver turnarounds were shortened to make up time for the overhaul period with the Japan arriving on 16 February and off again on the 23rd. She arrived at Honolulu on the 11th with 40 passengers for the port but only 110 through fares. With embarks, she came into Victoria with 188 aboard and a heavy mail consignment of 457 bags. It had proven a rough voyage with 10 days of bad weather, most of which was centered off the coast of Japan.

The Silver Jubilee of King George V in London in May 1935 stimulated passenger bookings and on 9 April, Empress of Japan arrived from the Orient and Honolulu with 542 passengers, 220 in First Class and 87 who embarked in Honolulu. She was delayed three hours arriving owing to high winds off the Pacific coast.

The second meeting of Empress of Japan and Empress of Britain and another busy day in Honolulu Harbor, 25 April 1935 with Empress of Britain (left), Lurline (centre) and Empress of Japan and Taiyo Maru (right) berthed under the Aloha Tower. Credit: Honolulu Advertiser, 6 May 1935.

Reprising their rendezvous of the previous year, Empress of Britain, again on her world cruise, and the outbound Empress of Japan, were docked together at Honolulu again on 25 April 1935. Empress of Japan, with 225 passengers, 40 for Honolulu, left Vancouver on the 20th and Empress of Britain, coming in from Yokohama with 488 aboard, arrived at Honolulu on the 23rd. Empress of Japan arrived on the 25th as did the Matson-Oceanic liner Lurline. During their stay in the port, the respective football teams of both C.P. ships played a match and Empress of Britain's routed that of Japan's, 4-1.

Menu cover for special dinner in honour of the Silver Jubilee of H.M. King George V aboard Empress of Japan, 6 May 1935. Credit:Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

With one of her best lists in some time, Empress of Japan departed Hong Kong on 17 May 1935, with Sir William Peel, the retiring Governor-General of the Colony and Lady Peel among those aboard. She was reported to be fully booked when she sailed from Shanghai on the 20th, having embarked financier Walter F. Dillingham and Alice T. Hobart, author of Oil for the Lamps of China, soon to be released as a major Warner Bros. film. That same day Empress of Asia also sailed from Shanghai for Hong Kong and Manila. The Japan called at Honolulu on the 30th where she landed 78 passengers and had 599 for Victoria and Vancouver. She embarked another 100 and sailed with nearly 800 aboard with 300 in First Class, 125 Tourist and over 350 Third. The liner also added to her enviable list of Pacific speed records. By steaming from Yokohama in 6 days 8 hours and 39 mins, she also beat her own record for the 3,379-mile passage by 32 minutes and averaging 22.17 knots. Concluding another memorable voyage, Empress of Japan docked at Victoria and Vancouver on 4 June. She did arrived in the middle of labour dispute among longshoremen and her heavy cargo could not be unloaded. Enlisting volunteers, the work began the following day and was completed by the 7th.

When Empress of Japan docked, an incident was reported that occurred on 31 May 1935, 500 miles from Vancouver, between Chinese and white crew members. After she allegedly reproved him by shaking her finger in his face, a white stewardess was struck by a Chinese "boy" who then complained to the Chief Third Class Steward who, in turn, was then assaulted by a score of Chinese stewards armed with blackjacks and beaten to unconciousness. A passenger came to his rescue and was also attacked. On 12 June 1935 whilst still alongside Vancouver, seven Chinese stewards were arrested on assault charges. Two were later released and the other stood trial and convicted, two sentenced to 10 days in prison and three to five days. At the end of their term, they were deported to China.

Wonderful study of Empress of Japan alongside Vancouver. Credit: James Crookall photograph, City of Vancouver Archives.

On schedule and loaded despite the ongoing stevedore strike, Empress of Japan cleared her Vancouver berth at 11:00 a.m. on 15 June 1935 with 450 passengers, 100 destined for Honolulu and another 250 expected to board there. Inbound, the ship was held up by fog off Victoria and did not dock there until just before noon on 30 July with 486 aboard. She left for Vancouver after only an hour call and arrived by 7:00 p.m. When she came in, the Province reported "It was on this vessel, on her last voyage, that members of the Chinese steward force developed militant antagonism to some of the white steward executives. It is understood that this militant element has been utterly cleaned out. R.H. Kirkpatrick, general catering superintendent for the company on this coast, is on the board the vessel. He made the round trip on her."

For her annual summer overhaul, Empress of Japan entered the dry dock at Esquilmalt on 2 August 1935 and returned to her Vancouver pier the following day to begin loading for her sailing on the 10th. Three Vancouver boys, Navy League Cadets D.W. Gibson, T. Ash and I.M. McKinnon were accepted as "bridge boys" by C.P. and signed on in time for the sailing. Departing with 347 aboard, Empress of Japan paused two days out on the 12th for the burial at sea, with all due ceremony, of Capt. W. Dixon Hopecraft who had served for 25 years as officer and master on various C.P. Pacific liner and retired in 1923 and lived in Vancouver. It was his wish that he be buried at sea from a C.P. ship. On her return crossing, Empress of Japan arrived at Victoria on 24 September with 462 passengers and had 364 to finally disembark at Vancouver later that day along with one ton of gold, 14 tons of silver ingots, nine carloads of silk and 3,000 tons of general cargo.

Orient-bound, Empress of Japan sailing out of Vancouver. Credit: Leonard Frank photograph, Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

With what the Times Colonist called "one of the largest and most distinguished lists of passengers to sail this season," Empress of Japan departed Vancouver and Victoria on 5 October 1935 with almost 500 aboard, including 84 for Honolulu. Also aboard was Vancouver native Walter Sturdy, making his first voyage as a cadet and the first midshipman in the British Merchant Navy to enroll in aviation and receive a pilot's license whilst training aboard H.M.S. Conway in Liverpool and Hooton Aerodrome. "Aimed to impress Canadians with the ever-growing importance of the Chinese market," a trade mission organised by the Canadian Chamber of Commerce, were among those sailing and after visiting the larger commerical centres of the country, would return in Empress of Canada on 18 December.

On her next voyage, beginning from Vancouver on 1 December 1935, Empress of Japan would layover in Hong Kong for her annual drydocking and overhaul and would number among her passengers C.P.'s Marine Superintendent Capt. A.J. Holland and R. Liddell, Superintendent Engineer who would stay out East until the completion of all the Pacific Empresses' refit and return in Empress of Russia. Aboard the Japan were 316 passengers for the Orient and 81 for Honolulu.

Cover of 1936 Canadian Pacific Pacific Empress brochure. Credit:Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

1936

The beginning of 1936, a year that saw a new beginning for the British Merchant Navy with the commissioning of Queen Mary for Cunard and Stirling Castle for Union-Castle, focused attention on the increasing urgency to replace Pacific tonnage, in particular Empress of Asia, Empress of Russia and Niagara. All three dated from 1913 and the C.P. ships were among the few remaining large coal-burning liners. On 16 January 1936 the Honolulu Advertiser reported Captain E. Aikman, C.P. General Superintendent, en route in Empress of Russia to Hong Kong for her refit, it was planned to retire both Empresses "some time next year". Given no new tonnage had been laid down, it was surmised they might be replaced by two of North Atlantic Duchess class quartet. It had also been mooted a Duchess ship might replace Niagara on the Canadian Australasian run. Both Empresses could run through the end of 1937, but would then require a substantial refit for Lloyd's.

With the winter refit season underway, there was a long gap in sailings in January so that after Empress of Russia left Vancouver on 9 January 1936, it would not be until Empress of Japan returned, fresh from her overhaul, on 1 February, that the port saw another Empress. Honolulu, too, had been bereft of Empresses until Empress of Japan docked there on 27 January to land 61 passengers and had 166 through passengers aboard.

Empress of Japan approaching the Canadian Pacific pier at Vancouver. Credit: James Crookall photograph, City of Vancouver Archives.

With a new coat of white paint gleaming in the early morning sunshine, the Canadian Pacific flagship Empress of Japan docked at the Rithet piers this morning at 9.15 o'clock from ports in the Orient and Honolulu.

Times Colonist, 1 February 1936

Empress of Japan came home to us Saturday. And a fine sight she made for many hundreds who watched her stately progress from out of the distance to her berth in this Port of Vancouver.

Vancouver Sun, 3 February 1936

During the voyage, news of the death of H.M. King George V was received a day off the Japanese coast at which the ship's ensign was placed at half mast and a special memorial service was held in the main lounge while several dances were cancelled. However, Burns Night was appropriately observed with a special menu and entertainments arranged by the Scots aboard. She brought in 247 passengers, 513 bags of mail and 4,000 tons of cargo.

After her planned short turnaround and being the first westbound Empress since mid January, Empress of Japan's 8 February sailing was predictably well patronised. She took out 420 passengers with First and Tourist Class almost sold out and 181 bound for Honolulu where another 111 would embark, a record number to date in fact. She came into Honolulu on the 13th and after making her usual calls at Japan and Hong Kong, docked at Manila on 1 March with 92 cabin passengers, 62 Third Class, 3,100 tons of cargo and 390 bags of mail. She had an unexpected addition to her list when a baby boy was delivered to a Filipino passenger on the 29th.

Empress of Japan was off again, eastbound, on 1 March 1936. With 108 for the port and 316 booked through to the coast, she into Honolulu on the 18th, some four hours late, delayed by strong headwinds and rough weather. While scheduled to sail at 4:00 p.m., she was not away until past 7:00 p.m. Among her passengers were Mr. & Mrs. George Vanderbilt, returning from their honeymoon, and abortion advocate Margaret Sanger. There was no making up the delay with more bad weather, including snow and sleet, encountered on the final leg and Empress of Japan was uncharacteristically a full nine hours late docking at Pier B, Vancouver at 9:30 p.m. on the 24th. Even so, she managed to set a new record between Victoria and Vancouver of 3 hours 40 mins, the previous one being 4 hours 16 mins by an Empress.

Empress of Japan off Honolulu. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

With another 100 expected to embark at Honolulu, Empress of Japan sailed to the Orient on 4 April 1936 with 259 aboard, including renown Chinese scholar Li Yu-Ying and member of the Central Supervisory Committee of the Kuomintang. "At Pier B-C a huge gathering crowded the approaches to R.M.S. Empress of Japan to bid farewell to some hundreds of passengers. There were kisses and flowers and sunshine, and some of the passengers had obtained deck chair and fixed themselves comfortably for the voyage long before the gangplank was lifted and the ship's lines cast off." (The Province). Casting off at the same was time was Heian Maru of NYK which, whilst rather slower than the C.P. liner, would reach Yokohama one day ahead of her, not having to make to long detour to Honolulu en route. The Empress landed 56 there on the 9th and off the following morning. She reached Manila on the 26th.

Capt. Douglas reported a fine trip across the Pacific, with perfect weather practically every day. The voyage was one of the gayest in a long time, as the passengers entertained themselves with concerts, sports, gala dinners and other entertainments.

Times Colonist, 19 May 1936

On her return passage, Empress of Japan had a good list of 613 and landed 116 at Honolulu on 14 May 1936, beginning the busy early summer season and exodus from the heat and humidity of Japan and China. It was, in fact, the largest incoming passenger compliment into B.C. ports since the same time the previous year. When she came alongside Victoria's Rithet pier at 9:00 a.m., the Empress had 606 passengers: 246 First, 126 Tourist and 234 Third of whom 100 landed there, most transhipping to Seattle and half of those disembarking later the day at Vancouver were entraining for the Atlantic seaboard and passage to England and Europe.

Empress of Japan coming alongside Rithet pier, Victoria.

Indicative of the off season to the Orient, Empress of Japan had only 250 passengers, 65 destined for Honolulu, when she cleared her Vancouver berth at 11:00 a.m. on 30 May 1936. Canadian boys continued to get their chance to serve aboard the C.P. Pacific flagship and a last minute addition to her compliment was 17-year-old Hector Clark, leading seaman in the Winnipeg Sea Cadets, who snagged a position as bridge messenger 36 hours before sailing and gave up his shoreside job as a shoeshine boy to join the ship. The first leg of the voyage was met with rough weather and the Empress was late coming into Honolulu on 4 June, not docking until 3:30 p.m.

Canadian Pacific announced on 19 June 1936 a change to the sailing hour from Yokohama on homeward sailings of Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada. Effective with the Japan's departure of 28 August, the sailing time was 1 a.m. instead of 3 p.m., giving about 15 extra hours for a longer call at Honolulu. It also facilitated a connection with Matson Line to Los Angeles and San Francisco for American passengers who could now arrive at the American ports on the same day as reaching Victoria. Westbound, American travellers could now leave San Francisco by Matson the same day the Empresses sailed from Vancouver and make a direct connection in Honolulu for the Orient via Empress.

The eastbound Empress had a pretty good list of 431 through passengers and 106 to disembark there when she docked at Honolulu on 9 July 1936. Her cargo was perhaps more notable, including gold, silver, silk and about $1 mn. in Chinese antiques and art treasures including 2,000 pieces of rare relics and artworks, much of it from the collection of the Chinese royal family. This was destined for the Chinese Golden Jubilee Carnival to open on 18 July and under the care of a team of 19 Chinese directed by Dr. Kan Kan-hu of Shanghai and former professor at McGill University. Empress of Japan docked at Pier B, Vancouver on the 14th, landing 532 passengers. Among them Sir Hugh L. Stephenson, retiring Governor General of Burma, en route home.

Upon reaching Vancouver on his annual visit to the West, C.P.R. President Sir Edward Beatty stated on 24 August 1936 that the construction of four new liners to replace Niagara and Aorangi on the C-A Service and Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia "is in the immediate prospect" and that the C.P. ships would of a size and speed at least comparable to Empress of Japan and "in every way worthy of being considered companion ships of that magnificent liner." The company's future plans were, he stressed, were rooted in the same inspiration that drove Sir William Van Horne-- that Canada was a link between Great Britain and the Far East.

Eastbound crossings continued to be well patronised with 452 through passengers and 71 landing at Honolulu when Empress of Japan left Yokohama in late August 1936 and docked, as she often did, with Lurline on 3 September under the Aloha Tower. Among those aboard was the American Ambassador to Japan, Joseph C. Drew and Mrs. Drew. Fog in the Straits of Juan de Fuca delayed her arrival at Victoria a few hours on the 8th and she came into Vancouver late that same afternoon.

Lord Rothermere, owner of the Daily Mail, was among those sailing in Empress of Japan on 19 September 1936, under the command of Capt. W.T. Kinley, in relief of Capt. L.D. Douglas who was on leave. She landed 95 passengers at Honolulu on the 24th. Nearing the Japanese coast, the liner came right into the face of ferocious and unpredictable typhoon which had come some 1,500 up from the South Pacific and veered to Japan suddenly on 3 October. The Empress was forced to anchor five miles off Yokohama to wait out the the blow which sank the Japanese liner Kashima Maru off the coast of Korea, drowning 60. The C.P. liner was later able to dock at Yokohama. The lingering effects of the storm continued, further delaying her arrival at Manila by a day when she anchored off the port overnight. When the Empress docked at Manila on 12 October, Lord Rothermere was met on the pier by Mayor Juan Posadas and then proceeded to Malacanan to call on President Quezon and was his dinner guest that evening. The ship's departure on her eastbound crossing was held back until noon the 13th owing to another typhoon. Coming into Honolulu on the 29th, she had to 92 landing there and another 259 sailing through to the coast.

A sailing that attracted a record passenger list also made... a lot of mess on the Vancouver pier. Credit: The Province, 16 November 1936.

That November 1936 saw the beginning of the prolonged U.S. Pacific Coast maritime strike. This put enormous pressure on the ships and lines not effected by it and, of course, on the Hawaiian islands. For C.P., it meant packed ships, both with passengers and cargo. This was first manifested by the 14 November 1936 departure of Empress of Japan from Vancouver for Hawaii and the Orient. As it was, fog in the First Narrows delayed her sailing and she did not get away until 12:45 p.m. She had a record list of 703 through passengers and 133 for Honolulu where would embark another 200 for the Orient. It was a stormy voyage that kept most passengers below decks and she came into Honolulu on the 20th, a day late. In addition 133 passengers, 180 tons of cargo and 1,100 bags of mail were landed. Empress of Japan set another record when she came into Manila on 6 December, her 614 passengers constituting the largest number yet landed at the port in a single commercial vessel. Of those aboard, 298 were in First and Tourist Class and she landed 3,300 tons of cargo and 2,023 bags of mail to land.

Philippine President Manuel L. Quezon was among those aboard Empress of Japan sailing on 7 December 1936, bound for Shanghai on a two-week trip to Peking and other cities. On her homeward voyage, Empress of Japan docked at Honolulu on Christmas Eve, landing104 passengers with another 307 through fares to the Coast. Upon sailing, her list had swelled to 466 including Mr. & Mrs. W.E. Boeing, returning from an Hawaiian vacation.

Christmas Day, spent as the liner was about a day this side of Honolulu, was a big day for some fifty youngsters aboard, according to Staff Captain J.W. Thomas and Chief Steward A. Crowson. Santa Claus, played by a passenger, H.G. Marchant, 'came aboard' at 4 p.m, and distributed gifts from a gaily decorated Christmas tree 20 feet high, after which the children sat down to a special tea party featured by a five-decker Christmas cake aglow with candles. Adult passengers celebrated Christmas at a masquerade ball Christmas Eve as the ship steamed out of Honolulu.

The Province, 30 December 1936

It was a rough two days on the final leg north and Empress of Japan did not dock at Vancouver until 9:40 p.m. on the 30th and rang in the New Year in her homeport.

1937

Canadian Pacific figured prominently in the 33rd Eucharistic Conference in Manila 3-7 February 1937. Organised by the James Boring Co., and accompanied by Thomas J. McCabe, cruise director, and Emil J. Carson, French speaking representative of the C.P.R., the party of some 200 was led by Bishop Edward F. Hoban and converged on Vancouver by C.P. trains from throughout the Dominion and a special train from Chicago for American participants. There they embarked in Empress of Japan, sailing 9 January. Uniquely, it was arranged that Empress of Russia be used as a floating hotel for delegates in Manila before conveying them back to Vancouver on 9 February. It was additionally arranged to convert the First Class card room aboard Empress of Japan into a chapel for the voyage over. On arrival at Vancouver, the delegates (including four bishops) were welcomed by the Archbishop of Vancouver before embarking. In their honour, the purple and gold flag of the Papal State was raised to the Empress' foremast as she sailed.

When Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver on 9 January 1937 with 200 delegates for the Eucharistic Conference in Manila, she flew the Papal Flag from her mainmast and her First Class card room had been converted into a chapel for the voyage.

The party swelled an already full list and when Empress of Japan sailed on 9 January 1937, she had 806 passengers aboard, of whom only 62 were destined for Honolulu where she called on the 14th and embarked an additional 27 passengers, including 10 more conference delegates. Manila, of course, afforded an enthusiastic welcome to the group and indeed all those aboard no fewer than 20 liners carrying delegates, including Victoria, Stuttgart, Conte Rosso, Tatsuta Maru, Changte and Tjisadane all which arrived between 23 January-3 February. Empress of Japan, with 300 passengers aboard, arrived on the 31st along with Stuttgart and Tanda.

Empress of Japan sailed for Hong Kong on 1 February where she would be drydocked, not departing for Vancouver until the 23rd. Empress of Japan took the place of Empress of Russia at the Kowloon dry dock which then proceeded to Manila for her hotel ship duty anchored in Manila Bay. With yet another maritime strike in U.S. ports and the annual drydockings, Vancouver was largely bereft of liners since 19 January when Empress of Asia sailed until mid February.

Among the Japan's passengers was Mrs. Manuel Quezon, wife of the Philippine President, en route to join her husband in Washington, along with her son and daughter and the Speaker of the Philippine House of Representatives. They received an official welcome during the call at Shanghai on 25 February 1937. Honolulu welcomed the First Lady and party as well as its first Empress in quite awhile when Empress of Japan came in on 8 March, with 80 passengers to disembark there. After a long absence, she returned to British Columbia on the 13th, with 445 aboard, 100 landing at Victoria.

By the time Empress of Japan came into Vancouver, she was usually showing a lot of boot topping and here she shows quite a roll at the end of a long voyage. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Another short layover to put the Empresses back on schedule after drydocking, Empress of Japan was off for the Orient again on 20 March 1937 with 425 passengers with 73 destined for Honolulu where she called on the 26th. She arrived at Manila on 11 April and sailed eastbound the following day. Calling at Honolulu on 29 April, she landed 157 passengers and a record cargo for the port of 1,160 tons. Among those aboard were Sir Andrew Caldecott, former Governor General of Hong Kong, and Lady Caldecott, en route for home and then to take up the post of Governor General of Ceylon. There were 554 passengers aboard when Empress of Japan returned to Victoria on 4 May, 238 First Class, 120 Tourist and 196 Third Class, 336 bound for the U.S. and 218 for Canada.

In celebration of the Coronation of H.M. King George VI, Vancouver was treated to an impressive nocturnal display when over two consecutive nights, 11-12 May 1937, Empress of Japan and Aorangi, the two respective flagships of their respective Empire routes, were dressed overall and brilliant floodlit. "At night, however, the white giantess will be a thing of beauty as high candle-power lamps sweep her trio of huge buff-colored funnels and play on the gleaming white and brasswork of her upper decks. Her neighbor at Pier BC, the Canadian-Australasian liner Aorangi, in from the Antipodes, and due to sail at 10 a.m. tomorrow, also will be covered in a haze of floodlit glory tonight and will sail in full dress for her homeward trip." (Times Colonist, 11 May 1937). On the other side of the world, Empress of Canada was similarly illuminated alongside at Hong Kong. All this was in addition to extensive decoration of C.P.R. stations, wharves and offices and hotels throughout the Dominion for the occasion.

Empress of Japan sailed on 15 May 1937 with 350 passengers, 93 for Honolulu, arriving there on the 20th. She concluded her westbound crossing at Manila on 6 June and sailed westbound the following day

Her return trip was notable for being the first liner to berth at Shanghai's new $5 mn. Jukong Wharf on 13 June 1937.

The ss Empress of Japan docked at Jukong Wharf on June 13. In that relatively simple procedure an event of great significance was read by many in pointing to the direction of growth of the waterfront in particular and Shanghai in general.

The importance of the occasion was indicated by the presence of officials of many of the big shipping firms to see a huge ocean liner, for first time in history, berth alongside a wharf near the mouth of the Whampoo River.

Promptly at 2.30 p.m. the great white liner arrived in front of the wharf and begin her swing. With adequate room and no other traffic in sight, the swing was accomplished quickly and in very little the 26,000 liner was alongside.

A large crowd was on hand, most of the people standing along the railing of the second floor of the wharf building to watch the ship come in and to wave to friends. Those waiting on top of the wharf building were at almost exactly the same level as those on the promenade deck of ship.

Having drawn alongside the wharf as though she been doing it for years, the Empress of Japan had the gangway thrust into her and the crowd on the wharf proper streamed on board.

Passengers and their small luggage were soon leaving the ship and entering cars for the drive to Shanghai. The steady drizzle kept the scene filled with umbrellas. The drive from the new $5,000,000 wharf to Nanking Road can be easily be accomplished inside half-an-hour.

Two ships were alongside the new wharf on June 13 for the first time and both Empress of Japan and the s.s. Kung Ping, which arrived the day before, were brightly dressed in honour of the occasion. It required 115 flags to dress the Empress of Japan, the largest ship on the Pacific, in the conventional style.

North China Herald, 16 June 1937.

It was an especially well patronised crossing with 428 through passengers, 255 landing there and another 166 embarking when Empress of Japan called at Honolulu on 24 June 1937 and when she arrived at Victoria five days later, she had 580 aboard including 320 First Class and 145 Chinese in steerage.

It was a "full house" and a gay send-off when Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver on 10 July 1937 on a voyage to an Orient about to plunged into war in Shanghai, a cholera outbreak in Hong Kong and an earthquake in Manila before she returned the next month. Credit: The Province, 10 July 1937.

With 625 names filling her passenger list, Empress of Japan pulled away from her Vancouver berth on 10 July 1937 on one of her best patronised westbound crossings in many months, with 101 destined for Honolulu, and three large tourist parties bound for Orient. She called at Honolulu on the 15th and when she called at Shanghai on the 27th she had the largest number of passengers of any ship to arrive there that season, 705 in all with 236 landing there. It was a remarkable three days for the port with seven large liners-- Rajputana from London, Empress of Russia from Manila, Taiyo Maru from Hong Kong, President Coolidge from Manila, President Harrison from New York, Jean Laborde from Marseilles and Empress of Japan-- landing 2,085 passengers in Shanghai from 25-27 July. Empress of Japan still had 300 to land upon arrival at Manila on 1 August, still on time despite bad weather off the China coast. She also came in with 2,300 tons of cargo and 350 bags of mail.

The story of Empress of Japan directly paralleled the transformation of Japan itself from a pro-Western, parliamentary system to an expansionist, military autocracy. What had begun in 1931 when Japan invaded Manchuria, continued in 1937 when after the so-called Marco Polo Incident, Japanese forces in the International Zone of Shanghai, were attacked by the Nationalist Republic Army on 13 August. This led to outbreak of the Sino-Japanese War, and more immediately, turned China's greatest city and port into a war zone, the first of its kind. Although Empress of Japan's schedule enabled her to just miss the onset of hostilities, Empress of Canada would figure in the evacuation of hundreds of the thousands of evacuees, both Chinese and foreign nations, fleeing the city. After valiant fighting by the Chinese forces, during which the city was relentlessly bombed by Japanese planes and shelled by naval forces in the Whangpoo River, the Japanese made amphibious landings and drove inland. After three months of urban warfare, what some would later call "Stalingrad on the Yangtze" fell on 26 November 1937. The war itself would endure until Japan's surrender in 1945.

Sailing from Manila on 2 August, upon arrival at Kobe on the 11th, it was reported that smallpox had broken out aboard among 312 Japanese refugees who had boarded Empress of Japan in Shanghai, fleeing the country owing to the imminent outbreak of war. More than 100 other passengers were quarantined upon arrival and the ship held there for a day. As it transpired, only one passenger, child, developed the disease. She reached Honolulu on the 19th, landing 144 passengers and a full list of 567 coming into Victoria and Vancouver on the 24th. It was reported that the ship had, during the course of the voyage, managed just to miss the bombing of Shanghai by the Japanese, a cholera outbreak at Hong Kong and an earthquake at Manila. "Close to 600 excited passengers reached Victoria this morning from the Orient and Honolulu aboard ss Empress of Japan. They spoke of war-like preparations in Japan, the tense atmosphere of Shanghai when they left, and other disasters that had befallen the great cities of Hong Kong and Manila, cholera in the former and earthquake in the latter. In the three stricken cities across the Pacific many of them left relatives and friends." (Times Colonist, 24 August 1937).

During her overhaul at Esquilmalt, Empress of Japan had large Union Flag neutrality marking painted on her aft Sun Deck housetop and bridge cab roofs.

Empress of Japan shifted to Esquimalt on 27 August 1937 for her annual summer drydocking before her next sailing on 4 September. During this, large Union Flags were painted atop her her bridge wing houses and two housetops aft on Sun Deck as neutrality markings owing to the war situation in Shanghai, although there surely was no pilot, Chinese or Japanese, who would not recognise the largest vessel to call regularly at the port. In addition, she sported an enormous 25 ft. by 15 ft. Union Flag stretched between her aft kingports. In the event, the Shanghai call was cancelled on this sailing and for the rest of the year as the city became an urban battleground.

Among those sailing from Vancouver on 4 September 1937 was Herbert Phillips, newly appointed British Consul General to Shanghai and Pierre J. Auge, also newly appointed as French Consul there, both of whom disembarked at Hong Kong. Adding to her diplomatic list was Chang Fu-ying, returning from representing China at the Coronation of King George VI and a long European visit. In a bit of a diplomatic incident, his bags were searched by police when the ship called at Yokohama despite having diplomatic status.

Credit: Honolulu Advertiser, 10 September 1937.

Wonderful photo of Empress of Japan sailing from Honolulu 10 September 1937 with an enormous Union Flag strung between her aft kingposts. Credit: Honolulu Advertiser, 19 September 1937.

Empress of Japan docked at Manila on 25 September 1937, landing 161 cabin and 108 third class passengers, 140 bags of mail and 3,800 tons of cargo there. With cholera rife in Japan, China and Hong Kong, the third class passengers, mostly Chinese, were quarantined until the following day and this delayed the ship clearing quarantine in Manila Bay for about four hours. As a consequence the Commonwealth Government announced that henceforth all steerage passengers in incoming steamers would be landed at the Mariveles, Bataan, quarantine station, allowing liners to proceed direct to their berths in Manila.

Sailing homeward from Manila on 27 September, the Shanghai call was again omitted and when Empress of Japan left Hong Kong on 1 October, she was hailed in the middle of the night by one of the Japanese gunboats patrolling off the Chinese coast and spotlights played on the liner which was asked to identify herself and her destination. Empress of Japan called at Honolulu on the 14th, disembarking 156 passengers, and had 263 through travellers. When 16 Japanese Third Class passengers were suspected of being carriers of cholera having come from Hiroshima where the disease was reported, they were taken to Sand Island for quarantine and testing. Fourteen of them were released in time to sail the following day but two others were held. The liner arrived at Victoria and Vancouver on the 19th with a light list 275 aboard, rather less than normal that time of year and doubtless reflecting the fall-off in Orient travel owing to the Sino-Japanese War and as the Vancouver Sun reported, "there were fewer refugees from the hostilities area of China than other recent Canadian Pacific Empresses have brought here."

Empress of Japan sailing through Lion's Gate, Vancouver. Credit: James Crookall, City of Vancouver archives

Sometime when ye're down along the pier seeing an 'Empress' sail outward-bound, and getting the faintest touch of that melancholia which is inseparable from observing other people's farewells, leave the gangplank amidships and watch the activity that goes on forward.

Cap'n L. Douglas, master of Empress of Japan, took her out for the Far East today. She was 30 minutes over schedule time before she blew the three blasts that warn to stand clear when she pulls from her berth. And those 30 minutes demonstrated what I mean by clever organization for sailing.

Last-minute baggage and cargo held Japan and her 350 passengers.

It's a great sight to see ship-organization dovetailing perfectly. If there none of the old catting of the anchor, and raising aloft of sail to a lightening song, of the old days of the windships, there another atmosphere created: an atmosphere of machine-like precision in which there is no room for bungling.

Twenty-six thousand tons of ship-- which the Japan is-- won't allow mishandling.

If ye stand well forward of the ship at her side, there's much to be seen that doesn't often catch the eye of the landsman.

Here's the picture:

At the last minute of two before sailing time baggage rolls up, baggage for the holds, drawn on wheel skids by the most modern thing in three-wheeled motor cycles.

The longshoring organization slips into place. And if ye think longshoring is just a matter of bruite strength, ye should see the men, stripped to the shirt for action, muscles rippling, working against time, sending trunks and bags aboard.

An urgent consignment of canned milk sidles up the baggage port, and is stowed. The slings from the boom lines rush cargo to the decks forward and to the forward holds.

Pilot an navigator on the bridge-- who have learned the art of patience in a hard school-- watch the petty officer on the deck handle his men.

On man ye'll not forget in a hurry, if ye watch the ship being prepared from a forward position, is Cap'n Holland, responsible for the speed and facility with which these last few emergency minutes are overcome.

The cargo's aboard. The last piece of baggage has slid into the darkness of the hold.

There's an order from Cap'n Holland, and the cargo gangplanks are cleared from the ship's port. An order to the forward crew sounds from the white petty officer.

In come the booms, swung in delicately to their resting places, lines hauled taut and made fast. The port boom comes in with a scratch of the ship's white paint. The whistle of 'all clear' is sounded to the bridge.

And then the longshoremen play their part again. Hawsers and spring lines are let go, hauled in and coiled down. The ship sails.

It seems prosaic enough; but there has gone to it an organization which enables the paragraph: Empress of Japan, sailed from Port of Vancouver today' to be written.

Pat Terry, The Vancouver Sun, 30 October 1937

Passenger loads continued to be light and there were 350 aboard (127 destined for Honolulu) when Empress of Japan sailed from Vancouver on 30 October 1937, 30 minutes late owing to arrival of cargo. Once again, there was no call at Shanghai. She called at Honolulu on 4 November, delayed by stormy weather en route, and it was not until 2:30 p.m. that she appeared off port. After another stormy passage from Japan, Empress of Japan arrived at Manila on the 20th with a good list of 420, 2,500 tons of cargo and 139 bags of mail. This was the first time the ship called first at Mariveles for quarantine of her third class passengers, including the All-Maui Stars baseball team. They were allowed to proceed to Manila the following morning in time to practice at the Rizal baseball stadium before their first game that evening. Among the more unsavoury arrivals were six Filipino convict deportees from Hawaii who had either completed their sentences or were parolled upon condition of deportation.

Credit: Honolulu Advertiser, 10 December 1937.

The Empress departed Manila on 22 November 1937 for Hong Kong, Kobe, Yokohama and Honolulu. She called at the latter port on 9 December with 43 passengers disembarking there and 420 passengers. Sailing for for Victoria and Vancouver at 4:00 p.m. on the 10th, this was the first crossing to resume carrying U.S. Mail upon renewal of the contract and just in time for the Christmas rush. Gale force winds encountered after passing quarantine at Victoria on the 14th, caused Empress of Japan to skip her call there and she proceeded direct to Vancouver where she docked at Pier B-C at 2:30 p.m.

Credit: The Province, 20 December 1937.

Empress of Japan's crew relished a Christmas Eve in homeport and shared it with others when Chief Purser "Johnny" Moir hosted a Christmas Party aboard the ship for 109 children on 20 December 1937 with a Christmas tree, gifts and a visit by Santa Claus. Capt. L.D. Douglas, Staff Capt. J.W. Thomas presided while Chief Steward "Bob" Crowson and Chef W.J. "Tiny" McCarthy prepared a lavish Christmas Tea for their guests with a cartoon film festival in the lounge to cap off the festivities.

Leaving the snow and icy winds, Honolulu-bound vacationists and Orient tourists sailed away from Victoria Christmas night aboard Canadian Pacific flagship Empress of Japan, Capt. L.D. Douglas.

The great white ship was ablaze with lights in her public rooms. In her dining salon a giant Christmas tree held the centre of the room.

Times Colonist, 27 December 1937.

But it was back to business and on Christmas Day itself, Empress of Japan pulled out of Vancouver at 11:00 a.m, with 122 passengers for the Orient and 118 bound for winter holidays in Hawaii, leaving the two-feet of snow that had just blanketed the city.. Among those bound for the Orient was Capt. E. Aikman, General Superintendent of C.P. who was going out to Hong Kong to supervise the annual overhauls there of the Pacific Empresses. Empress of Japan would go into drydock at Kowloon for three weeks on arrival at Hong Kong on 19 January 1938, not sailing for Vancouver until 8 February and finally returning home on the 26th.

Brochure promoting Tourist Class, 1938. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

1938

After calling at Honolulu on New Years Eve, Empress of Japan proceeded to Yokohama, Kobe and, again skipping Shanghai, Hong Kong before arriving at Manila on 15 January 1938 with a fulsome passenger list of 178 cabin and 374 third class and an exceptionally heavy cargo of 4,500 tons and 1,400 bags of mail. It, in fact, constituted a record single cargo assignment in a passenger liner landed at the port.

Empress of Japan sailed from Manila 17 January 1938 for Hong Kong. After drydocking at Hong Kong, she sailed homeward on 8 February, the voyage being notable for being the first to call at Shanghai, on the 10th, since the outbreak of the war the previous August, and the victory of the Japanese who now controlled the city and much of the interior of China extending to Nanking to the West. The ship docked at Woosung, 14 miles down the Whangpoo River from Shanghai owing to the war neglected condition of the river approaches into the city docks. She came into Honolulu on the 21st with 137 passengers landing there and 273 through to the coast. Her docking was delayed more than an hour owing to a rigourous quarantine inspection, being the first inbound liner from Shanghai since the previous autumn. One of her crew, her baker, was removed from the ship, suspected of having smallpox and taken to Sand Island quarantine station for observation. After a long absence, Empress of Japan returned to Vancouver on the 26th, with 411 passengers.

On 27 April 1938 the North China Herald reported on the badly neglected state of the Whangpoo River on the approaches to Shanghai as a result of the Sino-Japanese War. Even with the Japanese now controlling Shanghai, there had been no resumption of dredging especially around the Fairy Flats for some eight and half months. As a consequence, big ships could no longer safely navigate the river up to Shanghai including Empress of Japan which had been unable to dock at Pootung or Shanghai proper for months and instead used Woosung up river. In fact, the Japanese continued to neglect the river and port mainly to further discourage British trade with the port which had already declined by 35% owing to the war which had destroyed some 50% of Shanghai's local industry and commercial facilities.

"Carrying one of the largest lists of passengers to leave these shores in many months," (The Tribune), Empress of Japan left Manila for Canada on 28 March 1938, her passengers including the British Islington Corinthian football club continuing on their Asian tour, and bound for Hong Kong. The ship called at Shanghai on 3 April, Kobe and Yokohama where she arrived on the 7th and was detained for a medical inspection of all those aboard when an apparent case of typhus was discovered aboard among one Third Class passenger who was taken to a hospital ashore. The ship was also fumigated, but still was not permitted to come alongside and took on her passengers and mails anchored outside the breakwater. After a two-day delay, she sailed on the 8th with a near record 753 passengers. Among them was America's most desirable debutante, Miss Gloria Baker, heiress to part of the Vanderbilt millions, and travelling with her mother.

On 9 April 1938 C.P. announced Empress of Japan's arrival at Honolulu would be set back a day owing to the delay and would reach Vancouver now on the 20th. Although 46 hours detained, the Empress made up quite a bit of time and reached Honolulu at 1:00 p.m. on the 15th. By doing so, she had in fact broken her own record for the Yokohama-Honolulu passage by six minutes, doing the run in 6 days 8 hours 33 mins. At an average speed of 22.175 knots. She landed 212 there and there was time enough for the Corinthians to play at match against the Oahu All-Stars before they transhipped to the San Francisco-bound Matsonia. "The white flagship, which made a beautiful picture, as she steamed from William Head in dazzling sunshine, was a day and a half behind schedule," reported the Times Colonist after Empress of Japan reached Victoria on the 20th with 622 passengers, 100 landing there.

In the third time in succession and the fifth time in the nine years it was contested, Empress of Japan was awarded the C.P. Chairman's Shield for efficiency in ship management, fire and collision drills. The trophy was originated by Chairman Beatty and there was an intense rivalry among the ships and crews to win it. The award was presented to Capt. L.D. Douglas on 30 April 1938.

Orient-bound again, Empress of Japan left Vancouver on 30 April 1938 sailed with 255 passengers, 93 ticketed for Honolulu where she called on 5 May and reached Manila via the usual ports on the 22nd. She sailed eastbound on the following day and upon clearing Yokohama, had 546 through passengers aboard. Her call at Honolulu (where she arrived on 9 June) with 153 landing passengers was extended to the 11th to embark a large party of 100 school teachers starting their summer vacation plus 72 independents. In all, Empress of Japan left with 720 passengers aboard, the largest of any trans-Pacific liner that year. She docked at Victoria and Vancouver on the 16th.

A remarkable series of photos showing the first transit of Empress of Japan under the still abuilding Lion's Gate suspension bridge at the entrance to Vancouver harbour. (LEFT CLICK on photo for full size scan). Credit: The Province, 16 June 1938.

Her arrival marked Empress of Japan's first passing under the epic Lion's Gate suspension bridge at the entrance to Vancouver harbour. The span, still very much under construction, had been completed to extent of fixing nine of the centre roadbed frames suspended under the twin main cables and despite the top of her masts extending 195 ft. above the waterline, she passed with plenty of room (13 ft.) to spare.

A familiar landmark in Vancouver harbor, Empress of Japan, passes under the just completed centre roadway span of the latest trademark of the port, the suspension bridge over Lion's Gate, the longest of its type in The British Empire, 16 June 1938. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

If any more proof was needed of the importance of the ship's call at Honolulu, it came in the form of the 166 (of the 457 total aboard) passengers bound for the port aboard Empress of Japan as she sailed on 25 June 1938. Among her through passengers was the Hon. Manuel Roxas, speaker of the Philippine National Assembly, returning to Manila. Among the 32 embarking at Honolulu on 1 July was composer Rudolf Friml, bound for Manila. Returning from a vacation in Japan, President Manuel L. Quezon, along with other Filipino representatives, embarked in Empress of Japan at Yokohama on the 9th for Manila. On the 14th, U.S. authorities announced after reports were received from China of an increase in cholera cases there, all inbound liners from there would be subject to detention for 24-hours outside the Manila breakwater before being allowed to berth. Empress of Japan arrived off Manila on the 17th at first light and after passing quarantine examination, President Quezon and his party were allowed to land, by the U.S. quarantine launch Burma, escorted by 34 gaily decorated boats and greeted by some 50,000 along the embankment. While the First Class and Tourist passengers were permitted to come ashore five hours later by launch, the 146 Third Class could not disembark until the ship was allowed to berth 28 hours after arrival.

Empress of Japan left Manila on 20 July 1938 and when she called at Honolulu on 4 August, she had a big list of 180 landing there and 373 through passengers and embarking a sizeable contingent, coming into Victoria with 640 on the 9th.

Such was the crush of traffic and visitors attending her sailing from Vancouver on 20 August 1938, as well as the late delivery of baggage and refrigerator cargo, that Empress of Japan was a hour late in casting off for the Orient, not doing so until noon, numbering 387 through and 163 Honolulu passengers in her compliment. At Honolulu on the 25th-26th. embarked another 150 passengers transhipping from Lurline, inbound from Los Angeles. The Empress arrived at Manila on 11 September.

The homeward voyage, coinciding with the war scares and the Munich Conference, was a tense one. The liner was at Yokohama when Hitler made his speech at Nuremburg and with Japan part of the Axis, there were real fears the ship might be interned and seized if war broke out. "We didn't feel east until after we had cleared port on our way to Honolulu," a passenger related to the Honolulu Advertiser when Empress of Japan arrived there on the 29th. She landed 198 there and had 315 through passengers and with embarks (including Edgar Rice Burroughs, creator of the "Tarzan" novels), there were 378 disembarking at Victoria and Vancouver when she docked on 4 October.

With the Munich Settlement securing no war in Europe, at least for a little longer, and an improvement in business in Asia, traffic picked up and when Empress of Japan set off on her next voyage from Vancouver on 14 October 1938, she was nearly booked to capacity with over 700 aboard (a record that year for any single ship sailing from the port), including 110 destined for Honolulu and an equal number boarding there. Her passengers including many military and diplomatic personnel who were returning to their Far Eastern posts and had to do so by 1 November so the sailing was put ahead a day to ensure their arrival. When she left Honolulu the morning of the 21st, she had a record 879 passengers aboard.

Credit: Times Colonist, 30 November 1938.

Tuesday evening was a black as the tunnel in a tramp ship, and the colored lights of Vancouver glowed in the dripping velvet as R.M.S. Empress of Japan cane in from the Orient and tied up at Pier B.

The sight struck different persons on board in differing ways. To the officers on board, it meant they had ridden into home port practically ahead of the storm. All across the Pacific the gales had pursued them, but never caught up until they were in the Straits of Juan de Fuca

The Province, 30 November 1938

The homeward Empress left Yokohama on 18 November 1938 with 379 through passengers and 179 for Honolulu where she arrived on the 24th and left with some 600 aboard. Outrunning a strong easterly gale which finally caught up with her as she came into the Straits the evening of the 27th. At Victoria the following morning, she landed 75 First and 96 Chinese Third, making connecting with the Princess steamer to Seattle before continuing on to a stormy Vancouver.

For some time the executives of the Canadian Pacific Steamships Ltd. have frankly admitted that the proposed, as soon as feasible, to built two new transpacific palaces, equal to the modern luxuries and splendid speed of the flagship SS Empress of Japan, and her worthy consort, R.M.S. Empress of Canada.

It is reported that Captain E. Aikman, R.N.R., general superintendent Canadian Pacific SS Ltd. has left for London, to be absent for some time, and that one of the reasons for his trip to the Old Country is to discuss and consider new tonnage for the Pacific.

Included in these discussion, it is understood, will be the subject of new tonnage for the Canadian-Australasian Line, a development long sought by the Antipodean service.

The Province, 2 November 1938.

The matter of new tonnage continued to come up periodically and whilst there was no question that the now superannuated Empress of Russia, Empress of Asia and Niagara, all dating from 1913, needed replacement, high shipbuilding and steel costs, occasioned by the build-up of Britain defenses, and the depressed state of Oriental trade made it problematic. Not only had the Sino-Japanese War badly affected trade with China, the increasingly nationalist policies of Japan, which had greatly built-up her merchant marine, resulted in much cargo diverted to Japanese ships. The silk trade, too, had badly declined owing to the development of synthetics and what remained of it was carried on new fast Japanese freighters direct from Japan to New York via the Panama Canal.

Matchless 1930s Vancouver Icons: the outbound R.M.S. Empress of Japan passes under the Lion's Gate Bridge (opened 14 November) on 10 December 1938. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

It was again time for the annual winter drydocking cycle at Hong Kong and Empress of Japan would be the first overhauled. Aboard for her 10 December 1938 departure from Vancouver was Capt. A.J. Holland, C.P. Marine Superintendent, en route to supervise the work. Upon departure, she had a total of 362 aboard, of whom 127 were destined for Honolulu. As the last mailship to reach the Orient by Christmas, there was an especially heavy mail consignment. Calling at Honolulu on the 15th-16th, she left behind five Chinese smugglers (three of whom were crew and two locals) and 80 tins of opium valued at $28,000 who were arrested upon arrival, the result of a four-month investigation. The crew members walked off the ship with the tins concealed in vests under their clothes.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan by Alfred Crocker Leighton.

1939

With the distinction of being the first ship to usher in the New Year for the waterfront, the s.s. Empress of Japan, flagship of the Canadian Pacific trans-Pacific fleet, steamed into the harbor early Sunday morning. The officers, crews and passengers welcome the New Year at sea between Hong Kong and Manila.

The 'New Year' ship brought 150 cabin passengers and 143 third class passengers, in addition to 3,000 tons of general cargo and 3,000 bags of late Christmas mail from the United States, Honolulu, Japan, China and Hong Kong.

The Tribune (Manila), 3 January 1939.

On New Years Day 1939, Empress of Japan arrived at Manila. She sailed the following day for Hong Kong where she shifted to drydock for her annual overhaul on 12 January. This occasioned this wonderfully detailed account of the work involved during these refits in the Hong Kong Telegraph, 16 January 1939:

The Empress of Japan went into drydock on Thursday. She is now stocked up with her bow close under the high bluff at the of the Hong Kong and Whampoa Dock Company's works. Slung about her sides, clambering with tar buckets up her rigging, or working within are men whose number varies daily from 1,000 to 2,000. They produce a considerable clatter which makes conversation in certain parts of the ship impossible.

Like a colony of woodpeckers, with steel chisels for beaks, men tap incessantly at the plating of the Empress, clearing away her rusted painting. Taking a flake at a time, they have to clean the space below the waterline alone an area of over 9,766 square yards-- very much like cutting two acres of wheat a blade at a time.

This estimate omits the works of scraping and tapping inside the ship, on the superstructure and lifeboats, and on the thousand-and-one pieces of machinery which must be disassembled, scraped, repainted, and reassembled. Yet, in nine more days the Empress of Japan will be ready to sail to Vancouver, as fresh and clean as a new pin-- and not nearly so prone to rust.

The lifeboats alone are a formidable item of overhaul. There are 26 of them, capable of accommodating 1,802 passengers, or 161 more than the ship is certified to carry. Twenty-one rafts can carry 1,380 more. These are thoroughly inspected by Lloyds and Government surveyors or any repairs or renewals ordered are effected. Each lifeboat and raft has been then to scraped, paper, and re-varnished.

The only lifeboat which escapes this treatment is lifeboat No. 13-- for the good reason, a No. 113, a No. 213 or a No. 313 cabin; in fact, concession to popular superstitution has made the evil's number in any combination absolutely taboo on board all the C.P.S. ships.

Overhaul extends from the lifeboats; gear to their food provisions. Over 1 1/2 tons of 'hard tack' has to be removed from 84 air-tight bread tanks, inspected, and, if it is considerable desirable, replaced. Hard tack being wellnigh indestructible (and, so to claim, indigestible), this may not always be necessary, even after a year's storage. Each boat also carries a case of condensed milk which is renewed.

Apart from the work on the engines, which on the occasion involves the dismantling of three huge turbines, perhaps the biggest single piece of work being done on the Empress of Japan is the installation of a steel swimming tank for tourist class passengers. The deafening racket of pneumatic drills way aft on B Deck indicates where this tank is located. It will give the Empress two pools, the first-class pool being deep amidships.

Drills also produce a racket on the top deck where extensions are being made to give the ship's four messengers boy more roomy, comfortable quarters.

One item of renovation that defies computation is the re-caulking of the deck seams. Along miles and miles of planking Chinese boys squat, moving along inch by inch as they pick up the old oakum, after which fresh filling is poured into the open crack. There are, too, the ship's 1,804 lifebelts to be meticulously inspected.

At sea, the Empress of Japan's passengers and crew consume, on an average, 250 tons of water day. Since, however, the ship can pack away 3,880 tons in the tanks in her double bottom, this is matter of no concern. At overhaul time whatever remains of her water supply has to be pumped out; her tanks are cleaned and given a fresh double coat of cement.

Coiled beside the Empress in the bed of the drydock are two anchor chains. With anchors attached. Here a tedious task awaits the 'woodpeckers." Each chain has over 1,000 massive links and could almost be wound around the street block hounded by Connaught and Chater Roads and Ice House and Pedder Streets. At the end of a 7 tons 5 cwt anchor is waiting to be cleaned.

The ship's propellers have also been removed. The shaft easing, composed of hard wood, inevitably suffers some wear, and the parts affected have to be replaced. The shafts are drawn back into the ship to permit this work to done.

The overhaul of the Empress of Japan is divided into departments. Mr. H.G. Donald, Superintendent of Engineering with the C.P.S. has charge of the engineering section, and Captain A.J. Holland, the Company's Marine Superintendent, has charge of the deck department, the touching up of approximately 350 cabins being an item on his list.

There is plenty of work to do on the Empress, but some of the boys are not above mixing pleasure with business. Thus two of them on Saturday found the deck quoit lines irresistible and took time off for an quick game of pitch penny.

Resuming service, Empress of Japan left Hong Kong on 24 January 1939 and had 470 through passengers and 118 for Honolulu (where she arrived on 7 February) upon departure from Yokohama. The Empress returned to Victoria and Vancouver on the 11th with 550 aboard.

The subject of new trans-Pacific tonnage came up again in the Vancouver Sun on 18 February 1939, reporting that "the fact they are needed, to replace Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia is grants, and company officials have admitted that the plans for new ships are ready in the Old Country. But world conditions and high cost of materials have held the project up. Recently, however, there has been a hint from certain circles in England that start may be on the ships this year, that the contracts may be signed about next June, if conditions improve and other factors on which shipbuilding depends should show promising signs. It has been been said that the new ships will be larger than the Empress of Japan, which 26,000 tons gross, and their total cost might approximate $15,000,000."

The Province published this superb study by photographer C.P. Dettloff of Empress of Japan as she sailed from Vancouver on 18 February 1939 with the following caption: "Off to sea-- With the white-tipped North Shore mountains as a backdrop the stately Empress of Japan moved out to the open sea this morning. In the foreground an aged Indian dugout, at her back the harbor and in front the wide expanse of the Pacific. And as she leaves Narrow the words of Whitman come to mind:

Our life is closed, our life begins

The long, long anchorage we leave,

The ship is clear at last, she leaps!

She swiftly courses from the shore,

Joy, shipmate, joy.

When Empress of Japan left Vancouver on 18 February 1939, among the close to 450 aboard were 14 bound for Hong Kong who were connecting with Empress of Britain there on her annual World Cruise and another six with the same plans would embark in Honolulu. Among her crew were two Vancouver boys aged 16 and 17, members of the Sea Scouts, who secured posts as Boy Seamen. Two other local Sea Scouts also signed on aboard Empress of Canada and Empress of Russia. Empress of Japan called at Honolulu on the 23rd where she landed 148 passengers and had 241 through to Oriental ports. She embarked an exceptionally heavy list including more than 200 Third Class and sailed the following day.

A beautiful portrait of Empress of Japan, passing Lion's Gate on 4 April 1939, by famous Vancouver photographer Leonard Frank. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Due to a strike cancelling Lurline's scheduled voyage to Honolulu, Empress of Japan's sailing for the mainland, inbound from Orient, on 30 March 1939 was inundated with booking requests, but she could only accommodate 200 owing to an exceptionally heavy list of through passengers. She landed 195 there, including 140 Third Class. As it was, cots were installed in the gymnasium for male passengers desperate to get to the Mainland on time. The Empress arrived at Victoria and Vancouver on 4 April.

With 350 passengers, 55 for Honolulu, Empress of Japan left Vancouver and Victoria on 14 April 1939. Among those aboard were two German and three Polish Jewish refugees bound for Manila, the Quezon Government among the few to accept Jewish refugees without restrictions. She called at Honolulu on the 19th in company with Niagara and Lurline.

The homeward Empress numbered among her passengers, American Ambassador to Japan, Joseph Grew, when she departed Yokohama on 19 May 1939. She had 439 through passengers and 162 destined for Honolulu where 100 embarked on the 25th. There were 559 in all classes (174 First, 73 Tourist, 42 Third, 101 steerage) when she came into Victoria and Vancouver on the 30th.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan, dressed overall, at Pier B, Vancouver. Credit: James Crookall photograph, City of Vancouver Archives.

Empress Dressed to Greet Ruler

In full dress at her Pier B berth Canada's Pacific merchant fleet's mighty representative-- the gleaming white Empress of Japan-- heightened the vivid spectacle.

Both inner and outer harbours were again dotted with gaily decorated small craft of every type, while larger excursion vessels moved out to meet the royal flotilla. R.C.A.F planes dived in salute as the King's ship entered the Lion's Gate.

The Province, 31 May 1939

In a true last great moment for R.M.S. Empress of Japan, she was alongside Pier B, Vancouver, on 31 May 1939, dressed overall, as the Canadian National steamer Prince Robert came into the harbour with H.M King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, returning from their visit of Victoria as part of their epic Royal Visit of the Dominion and the United States, doubtless the most important and consequential Royal Visit ever. It was, too, a uniquely Canadian Pacific one, too, with the Royal Couple coming out, at the King's insistence, in R.M.S. Empress of Australia on 6 May from Portsmouth to Quebec, and returning in R.M.S. Empress of Britain from Halifax on 15 June. The Royal Couple had previously, on 29 May dedicated the Lion's Gate Bridge.

Empress of Japan, outbound, steams under the Lion's Gate Bridge. Credit: James Crookall photograph, City of Vancouver Archives.

Empress of Japan's sailing from Vancouver and Victoria on 10 June 1939 attracted 370 fares, 141 for Honolulu where 220 passengers embarked for the Orient.

The summer drydockings at Esquimalt by Yarrow's Ltd. were announced on 13 July, beginning with Empress of Russia the next day and then Empress of Japan 28-29th followed by Empress of Asia and Empress of Canada.

The continued rumours, speculations and plans that had swirled around newbuildings for Canadian Pacific's Orient and Antipodean (Canadian-Australasian) routes finally were put to bed on 14 July 1939 when the company, which had formally invited bids for the two C-A ships on 21 June, announced that the costs were simply two high and that immediate plans to order replacements for Empress of Russia and Empress of Asia, too, would be shelved for the timebeing, as would a projected replacement for Empress of Australia on the Atlantic. The ever increasing build up of naval and defence strength amid the ever deteriorating European situation had filled slipways and dramatically raised steel prices. The five-ship $56 mn. programme would thus be stillborn and Empress of Japan would indeed prove to be the last of her breed.

A well-patronised Empress of Japan came into Honolulu from the Orient on 20 July with 585 aboard, 162 landing there. When she sailed for the coast the following day, she had 550 aboard and arrived at Victoria and Vancouver on the 25th. On the 28th, she sailed the 80 miles to Esquimalt for drydocking.

Vancouverites had what proved to be their last opportunity to visit the immaculate Empress of Japan, fresh from her drydocking, on the afternoon of 4 August 1939, the proceeds for ticket sales in aid of the Vancouver Sailors' Home.

With some 500 passengers aboard, 202 for Honolulu, Empress of Japan left Vancouver on 5 August 1939. She arrived at Honolulu on 11 August where over additional 100 boarded, giving a list of 350 for her trans-Pacific run which called at Yokohama 19th, Kobe 20th and Shanghai on the 22nd. At the request of the U.S. State Dept., U.S. citizens were then being asked to leave Axis countries with the outbreak of war imminent. At Hong Kong on the 25th, 170 embarked, mostly American women and children. Empress of Japan arrived at Manila on the 27th. There, the German liner Scharnhorst which had initially sailed the previous day for Hamburg, had returned to port and remained at anchor in Manila Bay.

Empress of Japan sailed from Manila on 28 August 1939 and left Hong Kong on 1 September. The day (3 September) the Great Britain declared war on Germany, she arrived at Shanghai and was ordered to remain there pending orders of the British Admiralty and she was joined there by the outbound Empress of Asia. She had aboard the Canadian Westerns basketball team from Vancouver, returning from a tour of the Orient, winning 14 and losing 5 games, who, war or no war, played a game against a Chinese five on the 4th at the Chinese Y.M.C.A. and in "an unusually exciting game" (North China Herald) won the match 41-37.

To have sailed from Shanghai on 4th, Empress of Japan remained in port until the evening of the 6th. On 5 September 1939, both she and Empress of Asia were ordered to skip their calls at Yokohama and Kobe, and proceed to Hong Kong. Passengers on the Japan destined for Honolulu and Vancouver remained aboard while Japan-bound passengers were landed there and any German nations, too, were landed and interned.

In the event, Empress of Japan sailed from Shanghai direct for Honolulu on the evening of 6 September 1939, escorted by the County-class cruiser H.M.S. Kent, with 310 through passengers and 96 for Hawaii. On the 9th the Dominion of Canada declared war on Germany. Empress of Japan arrived at Honolulu on the 14th and embarked 47 there. That first wartime trans-Pacific voyage was made with most of her superstructure painted grey and the windows of her public rooms and cabin portholes painted over, but her hull remained its glistening white with the blue riband. The last of nearly White Pacific Empresses came into Victoria and Vancouver on the 19th, landing 345 passengers; 50 First, 75 Tourist and 220 Third/Steerage. According to the Times Colonist, "Passengers said the voyage lacked excitement. Some of them feared the liner was going to turn back to Shanghai when the Japanese ports were omitted."

Fade to Grey: A White Empress changes to battle dress. Empress of Japan at Vancouver on 24 September 1939 being repainted grey before her next (and last) voyage to the Orient. Note she is sporting her stern mounted guns yet. R.M.S. Niagara also being repainted is on the right. Credit: shipnostalgia.com

Whilst alongside her Vancouver pier, Empress of Japan's remaining White Empress livery disappeared under an overall coat of Admiralty grey. No one knew it at the time, but the port was saying farewell to the White Empresses forever. And she was armed, too, fitted with a single 6-inch naval gun aft and a 3-inch anti-aircraft gun immediately above it, the mountings having already been installed, with no publicity, during her recent overhaul in Hong Kong. For the timebeing, all four Pacific Empresses remained on their regular commercial routes. Empress of Japan's originally announced sailings for the rest of year were all rescheduled and she was to have sailed to the Orient on 30 September.

Armed with two cannon to repel German submarines, airplanes or surface vessels, the Empress of Japan steamed into port about 11 this morning. The Canadian Pacific liner wore a coat of dull gray paint. This is the first belligerent merchant vessel to visit Honolulu with cannon. On two platforms installed on the after end of the ship were mounted a 6 inch naval gun and 3 inch anti-aircraft gun. The smaller weapon was mounted above the larger one. Both guns have a wide firing angle. No cannon are mounted on the bow or any other part of the liner. A delegation of the American government officials inspected the two guns, the ammunition hoist and storeroom and the supply of small arms to see that no provisions of the neutrality act were being violated.

Honolulu Star-Bulletin, 9 October 1939.

The first armed belligerent ship to call at Honolulu, Empress of Japan's arrival on 9 October 1939 was big news.

With the comings and going of ships "blacked out" for the duration, Empress of Japan's sailing from Vancouver and Victoria on 3 October 1939 was furtive. She arrived at Honolulu on the 9th with considerably more publicity, being the first belligerent vessel to arrive at the port armed. Arriving passengers told the press that a gun practice exercise was held aboard soon after departure from Vancouver during which "passengers crowded to the rail to watch the gun-crew." Nightly blackout was also observed. Capt. Douglas decided to bring the liner into port via Barber's Point instead of the usual routing off Makapuu, sailing down the Kauai channel before daybreak and approaching Honolulu from the west instead of the east to fool any lurking u-boats.

As at Honolulu, the arrival of Empress of Japan armed, made big news at Manila. Credit: The Tribune, 27 October 1939.

The liner sailed for Yokohama the evening of 9 October 1939 after embarking 100 passengers. After calling at Yokohama, Shanghai and Hong Kong, Empress of Japan arrived at Manila on the 26th, landing 193 passengers, 2,800 tons of cargo and 800 bags of mail. "Appearing more of a warship than a merchant marine vessel, the 26,023-ton Empress liner drew a large crowd of people to the waterfront as she maneuvered alongside Pier 7 shortly after 9 o'clock yesterday morning. The Empress is now wearing a new coat of grey. Even portholes were heavily painted grey." (The Tribune, 27 October 1939). Empress of Japan sailed eastbound the following evening to begin what proved to be her final trans-Pacific commercial crossing. After calling at Hong Kong, Shanghai and Yokohama, she docked at Honolulu on 14 November, landing 41 passengers there and 190 bags of mail and sailing that same evening for Victoria and Vancouver where she concluded Voyage No. 58 on the 20th.

The Final Homecoming: R.M.S. Empress of Japan glides under the Lion's Gate Bridge on the afternoon of 20 November 1939 to conclude her 58th and last commercial trans-Pacific voyage. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

On 25 November 1939 Canadian Pacific announced the cancellation of Empress of Japan's schedule sailing to the Orient the next day followed by the announcement that Empress of Canada eastbound departure from Hong Kong was also cancelled. Requisitioned on the following day, Empress of Japan was hastily converted into a troop transport, first alongside her pier at Vancouver and then at Esquimalt where she arrived on 2 December.

Thus ended the nine-year reign of the Pacific Empress, the greatest ocean liner of that greatest of oceans, after 58 round voyages.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan, 1930-1939, painting by Rob Andrews.

Senior Chinese Ho Kan--Silent Ho to his shipmates in the liner-- seldom smiles except when he is satisfied.

When Empress of Japan was dive-bombed in the Atlantic Ho Kan at the helm didn't even lift his head.

Waves of bombers went over, but for five hours, Silent Ho stayed on the job, refusing relief. But he went to bed smiling.

With his spokesman, Chief Officer L. Goddard, Ho Kan went to Buckingham Palace to receive the B.E.M. for 'courage and devotion to duty.'

And as the medal was pinned to his brand new uniform Silent Ho smiled.

Hartlepool Northern Daily Mail, 27 March 1942

R.M.S. Empress of Japan would go on to a valiant and varied wartime career as one of the elite fast transports of the Second World War, sacrificing her name halfway through it, but unlike that other exemplar of the Golden Age of the Canadian Pacific, Empress of Britain, and her Pacific fleetmates, surviving yet destined never to return to the Orient run. The Pacific Empresses were like so many great C.P. and their valiant crews, a casualty of war.

H.M.T. Empress of Japan, 1940-1942.

1940

With a speed remarkable even for wartime, and an urgency that belied the prevailing notion of a "Phony War" at least on the European front, Empress of Japan went to war in less than week after being "called up." She would join a remarkable armada of great liners hastily assembled and converted which would carry the first contingent of Australian and New Zealand forces to the Middle East and Europe.

Empress of Japan at Esquimalt 2-3 December 1939. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

As it was the initial "conversion" of Empress of Japan into a troop transport, initially with berths for only about 1,850, was hasty and left most of her lavish interiors and accommodation intact although most of her furnishings were landed and extra berths added to larger cabins. As it was, she and many of her consorts during the early stages of war were among the most luxurious troopships imaginable.

Troop Accommodation, H.M.T. Empress of Japan

as documented at Melbourne, 8 January 1940

credit for all: Australian War Memorial

Enlisted men's canteen, former First Class Palm Court

Theatre & Auditorium, former First Class Lounge.

Nurses' lounge. Former First Class Card Room.

Orderly Room. Former First Class Veranda Cafe.

Enlisted men's mess. Former First Class Dining Room.

N.C.O.'s mess. Former Third Class Dining Room.

Nurses' cabin. Former First Class cabin

N.C.O.'s cabin. Former First Class cabin.

Enlisted men's cabin. Former Third Class cabin.

Departing Esquimalt on 3 December 1939, Empress of Japan's first voyage as a transport, was her longest and most audacious to date: straight down to Sydney, a distance of 6,785 miles, where she arrived on the 22nd.

Empress of Japan at Sydney 22 December 1939 with the Hegarty ferry Eagle Star at the ferry wharf. Credit: City of Sydney Archives Graeme Andrews Working Harbour Photograph Collection

Looking very smart indeed alongside Sydney Cove, Empress of Japan's fine lines could not be camouflaged by Admiralty grey. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Empress of Japan alongside Station Pier, Melbourne, January 1940. Credit: Australian War Memorial.

Looking aft from the bridge, alongside Station Pier, Melbourne. Credit: State Library of Victory via shippinghistory.com

Empress of Japan sails from Melbourne, 12 January 1940.

Empress of Japan was assigned to the first great convoy of the war, US. 1, comprising 13 transports, from Wellington with New Zealand troops and from Sydney and Melbourne with Australians. Empress of Japan, sailing from Sydney to Melbourne on 2 January 1940 and departing with 789 troops and nurses, joined the main convoy off Sydney on the 10th and sailed for the Middle East, via Fremantle (20th) where it picked up its naval escort: the battleship H.M.S. Ramilles, the cruiser H.M.S. Kent and the French cruiser Suffren, and proceeded towards Colombo in three great columns, each with its own escort:

"A" Column (Suffren): Straithaird, Strathnaven, Otranto and Sobieski

"B" Column (Ramilles): Orion, Orford and Dunera

"C" Column (Kent): Empress of Japan, Empress of Canada, Orcades and Rangitera

New Zealand and Australian World War II troopships in the Indian Ocean, Convoy US 1. From left to right, 1st row: Otranto, Sobieski. 2nd row: Strathnaven, Strathaird. 3rd row: Orion, Oxford, Dunera. 4th row: Empress of Canada, Empress of Japan. 5th row: Orcades, Rangitata, and an escorting cruiser. Alexander Turnbull Library National Library of New Zealand

The convoy reached Colombo on 29 January 1940 where the naval escort changed to H.M.S. Sussex, H.M.A.S. Hobart and the 'carrier H.M.S. Eagle and proceeded to Aden (8 February) where it split up. Empress of Japan, after refuelling, going to Port Said where she landed her troops on the 13th. Returning to Australia via Colombo (26th), she called at Fremantle on 4 March and arrived at Sydney on the 10th.

Empress of Japan then participated in convoy US. 3, one of the greatest ever assembled and involving some of the world's largest and most famous liners, including a unique gathering of Empresses-- Empress of Britain, Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada, which was tasked with transporting the 6,838 men of the New Zealand Second Echelon to Gourock, Scotland via the Cape.

Empress of Japan at Wellington, April 1940. Credit: Brent Chambers, shipspotting.com

A gathering of giants at Wellington in April 1940-- Aquitania, Empress of Britain and Empress of Japan-- as the cream of Britain's liner fleet converges on New Zealand and Australia to make up Convoy U.S. 3 to Gourock, Scotland. Credit: NZ Ship & Marine Society.

Sailing from Sydney on 29 March 1940, Empress of Japan arrived at Wellington on 1 April where she joined Empress of Britain and Aquitania. The convoy sailed on 2 May, with Andes departing from Lyttelon and Empress of Canada from Bass Strait. Aboard the Japan were 1,554 officers and men of the 21st Auckland Battalion and the 1st Convalescent Dept (54 officers and men). At Fremantle on 10-12 May, there was a unique gathering of Empresses along the quayside: Empress of Canada, Empress of Britain and Empress of Japan. The entire convoy assembled off Fremantle: Queen Mary, Aquitania, Mauretania, Andes, Empress of Britain, Empress of Japan and Empress of Canada in what was the great assemblage of the pride of the British Merchant Marine's liner fleet, escorted by H.MAS. Canberra, H.M.A.S. Australia and H.M.N.Z.S. Leander.

An unique assemblage of Empresses at Fremantle 11 May 1940 behind H.M.A.S. Canberra: Empress of Canada, Empress of Britain and Empress of Japan. Credit: Australian War Memorial.

However, when Empress of Japan arrived at Cape Town on 26 May 1940, her Chinese crew refused to sail in her into the Atlantic as did that of Empress of Canada. It was decided to transfer the Japan's troops to Andes and Empress of Britain and have her sail to Hong Kong with the Canada's Chinese crew. Empress of Canada had to recruit some of her Australian and New Zealand as engine room and deck crew and mess stewards so she could continue to Scotland with the convoy.

Meanwhile, Empress of Japan proceeded to Hong Kong on 30 May 1940 via Durban (2 June), Mombasa (9th) and Singapore (19-20th). Her arrived at the Crown Colony on 23 June was well-timed, coinciding with the decision to evacuate women and children dependents of servicemen and dockyard workers there due to increasing security concerns arising not only from the still ongoing Sino-Japanese War and increasing Japanese hostility against British and foreign interests in the region. It was decided to evacuate the civilians to Manila.

On 1 July Empress of Japan sailed from Hong Kong with 1,640 women and children, escorted by two destroyers. Running right into a typhoon in the South China Sea, it was miserable voyage and Manila was reached on the 3rd, the ship sailing again the same day on the return trip. Her next voyage, beginning on the 5th, was made in tandem with her erstwhile running mate, Empress of Asia, the two having 1,774 women and children aboard between them, both arriving at Manila on the 7th.

Capt. L.W. Thomas, Master of Empress of Japan/Empress of Scotland 1940-48

Reaching retirement age, Empress of Japan's long serving master, Capt. L.D. Douglas, relinquished command at Hong Kong to Staff Captain J.W. Thomas who was a Newfoundlander and would command the ship through her long war service. Capt. Douglas would become Assistant to Chairman Beatty in 1942.

When Empress of Japan returned to Hong Kong on 10 July 1940, she was, by coincidence, due for her traditional annual drydocking at Kowloon, and that was carried out there. In the process, she was repainted with dark grey hull and funnels and light grey superstructure.

Photographed from H.M.A.S. Canberra, Empress of Japan in her new livery of dark grey hull and funnels with grey superstructure. Credit: Australian War Memorial.

Returning to service, Empress of Japan sailed from Hong Kong on 3 August 1940 for Sydney where she arrived direct on the 16th. She was the assigned to Convoy US.4 and would transport New Zealander troops to the Middle East via Bombay, departing for Wellington on the 17th and arriving there on the 20th. She called at Fremantle on 4-5 September and then direct to Bombay, reached on the 15th. From there, the convoy was split with Japan joining Convoy BN.5B in company with Orion, escorted by the light cruiser H.M.S. Colombo and the A.M.C. Kanimbla, for passage to Suez beginning on the 19th where her troops were landed on the 29th. Joining Convoy SW.2 on 8 October, Empress of Japan arrived at Durban on the 22nd.

Wellington, New Zealand, August 1940: Empress of Japan (left) and Mauretania (right) at King's Wharf. Credit: William Hall Raine photograph, Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand.

Empress of Japan sailed from Durban on 24 October 1940 for the Clyde unescorted which was then the custom for the largest and fastest transports when sailing largely without troops and occasioned, of course, by the critical lack of naval escorts. Empress of Britain, too, was nearing home, unescorted, when two days later, off the coast of Ireland, she was bombed by a Luftwaffe Fw-200 Condor bomber, burnt out and on the 28th torpedoed and sunk by U-32. This loss of this magnificent vessel, the largest merchantman sink by enemy action in the war, was said to have "aged visibly" a heartbroken Sir E.W. Beatty who passed away on 23 March 1943 after a massive stroke, aged only 65.

Rather remarkably, Empress of Japan very nearly suffered the same fate barely a fortnight later in the same location when 300 miles west of Northern Ireland, she came under attack by a solitary Fw-200 (from KG 40, the same squadron as that which attacked Empress of Britain) on patrol which came upon the zig-zaging transport at 0900 hrs. on 9 November 1940.

Coming into attack at low level, the plane strafed Empress of Japan, the bullets peppering the upper decks and wheelhouse but the first stick of bombs missed as Quartermaster Ho Kan, crouching low in the wheelhouse to avoid the machine gun fire, skillfully evasively manouvered his ship, under the cool orders of Capt. J.W. Thomas. The Condor, circled and came for another attack, but the closest bomb just missed, exploding near the stern. It was enough to damage her shaft bearings, throw her rudder out of balance, put a main condenser out of action and temporarily plunge the ship into darkness. Fortunately, the frustrated Condor, having spent its bombs, broke off the engagement, whilst Chief Engineer R.H. Shaw and his crew fought in darkness to repair the damage and keep the ship underway and out of harms's way.

Among the passengers on board were-- Steptimus Johnstone, of Cullercoats, Northumberland; Robert Bruce, Bolton Sound, Shetland, George Glass of Southampton. Johnstone and Bruise told a joint story of the raiders' attack on the liner.

'Our ship,' they said, 'was in the Atlantic early on Saturday morning when the Nazi 'plane first appeared.

'Actually before the first bomb fell our anti-aircraft gun was in action, blazing away for all it was worth and giving shot for shot.

'Women and children were quickly ushered below to the shelter of a lower deck and there they remained until the danger was past.

'The 'plane swooped down and just as she released her first bomb there was a burst of anti-aircraft gunfire just ahead of her. Two bombs were released, but both fell into the water. Three attacks in all were made by the raider, on each occasion two bombs were dropped-- six in all.

'All fell into the water, save one near miss. After releasing her bombs the raider fired a cannon with a three-quarter-inch shell and then raked the decks with machine-gun fire.'

A member of the crew paid tribute to the Commander of the Liner, Captain Thomas, of Vancouver. 'His coolness,' he said, 'was something to marvel at. By skilfully zig-zagging he managed to get the ship out of danger and avoid a direct hit.

This member of the crew also warmly praised the Chinese quartermaster who was at the wheel. This man actually flattened himself out on his stomach to avoid the machine-gun fire and in a prone position managed to carry out every order from the skipper.

Daily Record, 12 November 1940.

The following day, 10 November 1940, Empress of Japan found safe haven in the river of her birth, which she had not seen in the more than a decade since she was built, and there was reunited with Empress of Canada. With her main intakes damaged and leaking, Capt. Thomas anchored her shallow water over a muddy bottom just in case.

For his valiant action in steering Empress of Japan under fire, Senior Quartermaster Ho Kan, was decorated with the British Empire Medal by H.M. King George VI and is seen here with Chief Officer L. Goddard. Credit: Kingston Whig Standard, 8 April 1942.

Capt. J.W. Thomas was awarded an O.B.E. for his bravery and handling of his ship and Chief Engineer R.H. Shaw and Quartermaster were awarded B.E.M.s for their actions in saving Empress of Japan from suffering the same fate as her fleetmate. Today, a statue of Capt. J.W. Thomas is one of 14 memoralising Valiant Canadians in Ottawa's Valiants Memorial.

Statue of Capt. J.W. Thomas, O.B.E., part of the Valiants Memorial, Ottawa. Credit: Wikipedia Commons.

1941

Completely repaired in about six weeks on the Clyde, Empress of Japan resumed service upon sailing from Glasgow on 18 January 1941 as part of Convoy US.5B to Freetown and then South Africa. This was one of the famous "Winston Specials," and was an enormous convoy, one of the largest ever formed and just the C.P. ships alone comprised, in addition to Empress of Japan, Empress of Australia, Duchess of Bedford, Duchess of York and Duchess of Richmond in addition to most of the Union-Castle fast mailships, Britannic, Cameronia, Franconia and others. Freetown was reached on the 25th and most of the convoy proceeded to to Cape Town where she docked on 8 February and was off again on the 12th for Mombasa (22-24th). The convoy, split by this time, with Empress of Japan, Empress of Australia, Windsor Castle and Ormonde carrying on as Convoy US.5BX to Bombay reached on 3 March. With Indian troops to re-enforce forces in Malaya, she sailed in company with Aquitania from there for Singapore and arrived on the 11th.

On the return, Empress of Japan sailed independently from Singapore to Cape Town, via Colombo and Bombay, from 23 March-18 April. She then joined Convoy CF.1 composed of Monarch of Bermuda and H.M.S. Illustrious sailing from Cape Town on the 23rd, called at St. Helena 27th and arrived Freetown 1 May and then independently again from there to the Clyde, arriving on 15 May, a voyage of some 32,000 miles since departing the Clyde in January.

After a refit, Empress of Japan embarked on her longest continual voyage, entailing from 35,000 miles which took her from the Clyde and back via Cape Town, Bombay, Singapore, Vancouver and Panama. This commence on 3 June 1941 as part of Convoy WS.9A comprised of herself as Commodore Ship, Mooltan, Samaria, Franconia, Capetown Castle, Durban Castle, Llangibby Castle, Highland Brigade, Orbita and others to Freetown (18-20th) and then Cape Town (5 July). Proceeding to Durban, Empress of Japan, Capetown Castle and Durban Castle were diverted there to Bombay as Convoy WS.9AX, reached on the 22nd and then on to Colombo (30th) to arrive at Singapore on 5 August.

Homewards, she was unusually routed across the Pacific, departing Singapore 10 August 1941, her first such voyage since November 1939 and one that would renew her acquaintance with Vancouver where she arrived nonstop on the 29th, completing a voyage of 9,358 miles. There, she was shifted to Esquilmalt for drydocking. She left Vancouver on 30 September, destined never to return to her old homeport, and proceeded to San Pedro (3-4 October, thence Balboa 10-11th), through the Panama Canal and across the Atlantic where she arrived at the Clyde on the 22nd after an epic round the round voyage.

With war now imminent in the Far East, it became imperative to build up forces in Malaya for which the very complex series of WS.12 convoys were formed in November 1941. This included WS.12Z, from Liverpool and the Clyde, on the 13th, which included Empress of Japan, Empress of Asia, Duchess of Bedford, Capetown Castle, Arundel Castle, Monarch of Bermuda, Aorangi, Orduna and Narkunda, and proceeded via Freetown (28th), Durban (18 December) where Empress of Japan broke off for Bombay with Capetown Castle, Duchess of Bedford and others, to reach Singapore on 29 January 1942.

Canadian Pacific poster, 1942. Credit: Canadian War Museum.

1942

By the time Empress of Japan docked at Singapore on 29 January 1942, the British defense of Malaya had turned into a rout and remaining forces fell back and two days later, had abandoned the peninsula and evacuated to Singapore Island. As it turned out, what had been called the impregnable "Fortress Singapore" would fall just a fortnight later. A massive sea evacuation of civilians and non-essential personnel was already underway and as soon as Empress of Japan had landed her troops, she embarked a full compliment of evacuees, all women and children, whilst the harbour was under near constant air attack. The last large liner to leave Singapore before it fell, Empress of Japan sailed at night on the 31st with some 1,600 passengers and arrived at Batavia on 2 February. Also detailed to the evacuation was Empress of Asia, which nearing Singapore on the 5th, was bombed by Japanese aircraft, burnt out and finally sank on the 9th.

Now one of three remaining Pacific Empresses, Empress of Japan left Batavia on 2 February 1942 for Durban via Colombo (6-13 February) where she arrived on the 21st and then on to Cape Town, reached on the 27th. Homewards, she sailed on 1 March and made her first appearance at Liverpool since her delivery voyage, on 18 March.

After refitting, Empress of Japan left the Mersey on 12 April 1942 for the Clyde where she arrived the following day for embarkation of troops for another voyage to South Africa, as part of Convoy WS.18, another epic liner fleet including Aorangi, Capetown Castle, Dempo, Duchess of Bedford, Empress of Canada, Maloja, Orbita, Orduna, Rangitata, Rimutaka and Reina del Pacific. This left the Clyde on the 21st, calling a Freetown on 29 April-3 May and arriving at Durban on 18th and then Cape Town on the 21st.

Destined for her first North Atlantic convoy duty, Empress of Japan stood out of Table Bay on 27 May 1942 with a new destination for the globe-girding transport: Halifax. She arrived there on 10 June and as part of Convoy NA.11, comprising Letitia and Ranpura, sailed on the 16th with 4,125 Canadian troops for the Clyde where she arrived on the 23rd.

Empress of Japan's final voyage as such, saw her sailing from the Clyde on 17 July 1942 on one of her now familiar, yet also as well as the last, trooping runs to the Middle East via the Cape. Calling at Freetown (28 July-1 August), the ship arrived at Cape Town on 13 August and from there continued to Aden (29 August) and to Suez on 1 September. Homewards, she left Suez on the 3rd, called at Durban 14-20th and proceeded direct to Glasgow where she arrived on 7 October.

Canadian Pacific Steamship, Ltd., announce to-day that they have applied for permission to change the name of their 26,000 gross tons liner Empress of Japan to Empress of Scotland.

Liverpool Echo, 4 September 1942.

A bit late perhaps, entirely symbolic and actually resented by many of her long serving officers and crew who were proud of their ship which made her own name on account of her record alone, it was announced in Montreal on 16 October 1942 by C.P. Chairman D.C. Coleman that to rid "so fine a ship of so unfortunate a name," that Empress of Japan would be renamed Empress of Scotland. It had been a change sought, it appears from the "very top" when British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, seeing the name in dispatches, was incensed a British registered vessel could still be so-named some one and three quarters of a year into the Allied war against Japan. When told it was against MoT regulations to rename merchantmen and indeed against prevailing seamen superstition to do, he was reported to have replied "It's a nonsense" and insisted on the change.

So it was that before the former Empress of Japan left Glasgow on her next trooping voyage, the welded letters that spelt out "Japan" on her bows and stern were torched off and she spent the rest of the war as Empress of…

The ship had already added the name Empress of Japan into the laurels and annals of the Canadian Pacific and the British Merchant Navy every bit as much as the previous Empress of Japan, the name being more identifiable with C.P.'s Pacific service than the country. As events proved, it was just as well as whilst the ship would go on to complete a magnificent war career, spanning 484,914 miles and carrying 210,068 service personnel, there would be no return to the Pacific run for the ship or line. Her continuing story as Empress of Scotland deserves it own chapter but with the renaming of Empress of Japan, truly ended an era as well as the heyday of a great ship.

Thus ended with pen and ink on the register books and the removal of five welded letters on her bows and stern, but the first chapter of a great ship and Forever Empress of the Pacific.

R.M.S. EMPRESS OF JAPAN, 1930-1942.

As she will always be remembered: R.M.S. Empress of Japan, sailing from Vancouver 5 August 1939 on her last peacetime voyage. Credit: Leonard Frank photograph, Vancouver Public Library Collection.

R.M.S. Empress of Japan by Norman Fraser.

Built by Fairfield Shipbuilding & Engineering, Ltd., Govan, yard no. 634

Gross tonnage 26,033

Length: (o.a.) 660 ft.

(b.p.) 640 ft.

Beam: 83 ft. 6 in..

Machinery: twin Parsons single-reduction gear turbines, twin-screw, six Yarrow watertube superheated boilers 425 psi and two Scotch boilers 200 psi and three single-ended coal burning Scotch boilers 180 psi, oil-burning, 33,000 s.h.p.

Speed: 21 knots service

22.23 knots trials

Passengers 268 First 131 Interchangeable 164 Second 100 Third 510 Steerage

293 First 131 Interchangeable 164 Tourist 100 Third cabins 558 dorm (1939)

1,885 (approx.) troops 1940-42

Officers & Crew 559

Canadian Pacific, George Musk, 1968

Empress to the Orient, W. Kaye Lamb, 1991

Merchant Fleets: Canadian Pacific, Duncan Haws, 1992

The Pacific Empresses, Robert D. Turner, 1981

The Engineer

The Far Eastern Review

Pacific Marine Review

Sea Breezes

The Shipbuilder

Belfast Telegraph

Birmingham Daily Gazette

Daily Record

Dundee Courier

Gladstone Age Press

Hong Kong Telegraph

Honolulu Advertiser

Kingston Whig Standard

Liverpool Journal of Commerce

London & China Express

Montreal Gazette

North China Herald

The Daily Province

The Province

Rivers Gazette

The Scotsman

The Tribune

Times Colonist

Vancouver News-Herald

Vancouver Sun

Victoria Daily Times

Alexander Turnbull Library, National Library of New Zealand

Australian War Memorial

British Columbia Archives

Canadian War Museum

City of Sydney Archives

City of Vancouver Archives

Hong Kong Public Libraries

NZ Ship & Marine Society

The Late Allan Green Collection, State Library of Victoria

Trove, National Library of Australia

Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia

https://www.angelfire.com/pe2/pjs1/index.html

https://baseballhall.org

https://www.warsailors.com/convoys/index.html

http://www.convoyweb.org.uk/

https://www.dalmadan.com

https://www.flickr.com/photos/charlesinshanghai/50864905063

https://gwulo.com

https://www.shipsnostalgia.com

https://www.shipspotting.com

https://www.shippinghistory.com

https://www.theglasgowstory.com

Additions/Corrections/Contributions welcomed

contact the author at posted_at_sea@hotmail.com

R.M.S. Empress of Japan, Orient-bound, passes Brockton Point. Credit: Dennis J. Dubinsky, Shipspotting.com

Empress Sunset. Credit: Wallace B. Chung and Madeline H. Chung Collection, University of British Columbia.

Sunday, March 13, 2022

PACIFIC EMPRESS: R.M.S. EMPRESS OF JAPAN